D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => DIR-655 => Routers / COVR => Beta Code! => Topic started by: ironic77 on February 02, 2010, 04:50:56 AM
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Router works great for about 2-4 days. I can't get WOL passed for some reason, but I'm not that worried about it. DNS relay seems to work. QOS is off. NTP is on, but pointed to the windows NTP server. SecureSpot is off.
About 2-4 days in, the wireless definitely stops being reliable. I was streaming from netflix and was dropping packets just to the router, inside the network. All I had to do to fix it was perform a soft reboot from "Tools -> Device".
I think I'm having the exact same problem when wired, but I'm still working to confirm. My Intel NIC is fine for a few days. Then, out of the blue, it starts dropping the link for a few seconds.
The other thing is the length of dropped packets /outtage will increase the longer it goes without a reset. That is, it will start just dropping a few packets, but if you leave it, eventually it won't respond at all -- not even logging into the management page.
Same as every post I've started: I can repro on demand, so if anyone at DLink is interested in collecting data somehow, just let me know.
In case it matters, both machines are Win7 x64 w/ IPv6 and homegroup. I also have an Xbox 360 that I use daily and a wireless Epson printer that is on 24/7 but rarely used.
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Turn IPV6 off Dir-655 doesn't support it !
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Already tried that with no luck, though admittedly that was with 1.32beta09, not 1.33.
Could you please link to the official DLink page on this? After all, the router claims to be compatable with Windows 7. Windows 7 has IPv6 enabled by default.
P.s. I just downgraded my router to 1.21 to see if the problems go away. We'll see in about 3-4 days.
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Turn IPV6 off Dir-655 doesn't support it !
No need to as if the connection does not support IPV6 then Windows will use IPV4 only.
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IPv6 will make no differnce since the router does not support it. But it can solve some Windows connection issues though.
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Hmm. I'm curious what you're referring to? I run IPv6 all the time without problems.
So far the replies to this post have been helpful as ever, which is to say, not at all.
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I have IPv6 enabled as well in Win 7 but since the router does not support IPv6 the connection ignores it.
Bottom line is if going through the 655 you do not have real IPv6.
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You're probably using the IPv6 tunneling feature. (IPv4-TO-IPv6). That is supported since it is Ipv4 traffic.
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disable qos engine on your router.
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I've tried disabling QoS with no luck. But honestly, if that was the solution to my 1.33 woes, then this router wasn't worth it, since the main two reasons for upgrading were QoS and Gig-E.
To provide an update:
- I downgraded to 1.22 and my router has been stable since. Currently:
Connection Up Time : 5 Day 12 Hour 44 Min 22 Sec
And not so much as a glitch. Considering my average uptime for 1.3x was less than 3 days, I'm feeling pretty good about this.
Sorry, Dlink, but your reliability stinks with 1.3x, even the latest one. Happy to put it back on there and reproduce the issues if you want data, but in the meantime, I'm finally able to get real work done instead of constantly worrying about disconnects and packet drops.
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To provide an update:
- I downgraded to 1.22 and my router has been stable since. Currently:
Connection Up Time : 5 Day 12 Hour 44 Min 22 Sec
Hi, would you please tell me how downgrading from 1.3x to 1.22 went? The release notes clearly say that it is not possible to downgrade from 1.3x, and yet here you are saying that it is possible.
I am, too, fed up with problems introduced (and/or made more noticeable) with 1.3x, and would LOVE to go back to 1.22 (though I do remember how I cursed the 1.2x firmware; but it is eons ahead in stability than 1.3x).
Anyways, any tips on downgrading? Thanks!
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Hi, would you please tell me how downgrading from 1.3x to 1.22 went? The release notes clearly say that it is not possible to downgrade from 1.3x, and yet here you are saying that it is possible.
I am, too, fed up with problems introduced (and/or made more noticeable) with 1.3x, and would LOVE to go back to 1.22 (though I do remember how I cursed the 1.2x firmware; but it is eons ahead in stability than 1.3x).
Anyways, any tips on downgrading? Thanks!
I successfully downgraded to 1.22 here's the link to the thread http://www.justbroadband.org/forum/r23693617-Downgrade-your-dir655
I did a 30/30/30 hard reset first (hold the reset button for 30secs,unplug power while still holding reset another 30secs,plug power still holding reset for 30secs) upload the RU firmware and wait 5mins before accessing admin page, do another 30/30/30 upload desired firmware wait 5mins before accessing admin page (to be on the safe side do another 30/30/30 again after you uploaded the firmware you wanted)
Lot of hassle, but it worked.. Was able to flash 1.22 and routers working fine so far.
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The 30/30/30 trick just has absolutely no added value/effect on the DIR. Just wanted to let you know. 8)
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The 30/30/30 trick just has absolutely no added value/effect on the DIR. Just wanted to let you know. 8)
Especially the "unplug power while still holding reset another 30secs".
This is like saying turn your light switches off and on during a power outage to help restore your power. :D
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The 30/30/30 trick just has absolutely no added value/effect on the DIR. Just wanted to let you know. 8)
Ahh, nice to know ;D I've been playing with the DDWRT firmware lately so it's programmed into my brain already :)
Anyways, router up 3 days since flash and still going strong. Any opinions on best pre 1.30xx nosecurespot FW? Thanks.
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Ahh, nice to know ;D I've been playing with the DDWRT firmware lately so it's programmed into my brain already :)
Anyways, router up 3 days since flash and still going strong. Any opinions on best pre 1.30xx nosecurespot FW? Thanks.
1.11
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I thought I'd report back after a few months of running 1.22.
I ran it a while without too many issues, but still just enough gremlins when using OCS or LiveMeeting for conference calls, lag on Xbox, and other little things here and there. I got fed up with it, and decided to buy a $15 Gig-E switch and hook it up to my old MN-700. While the MN-700 doesn't have the rich features and speed that the DIR-655 has (and very noticable when downloading huge Blizzard updates, streaming Netflix movies, etc.), in the end, it's more stable, and less laggy.
For a while I have had the DIR-655 plugged in behind the MN-700. The machine behind the DIR-655 has a definitely less reliable network, but in general, my DIR-655 reboots are non-existent. But it makes sense, because the router is no longer doing much actual routing -- it is barely better than a dumb access point now.
I'm sorry, I'd rather have a slow connection with low latency than a high bandwidth connection that is unreliable and latent. The DIR-655 is going on Craigslist.