D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DGL-4500 => Topic started by: macmagna on August 30, 2010, 08:23:53 AM
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I needed to take my DGL 4500 with me so I tossed it in a bag with some other stuff. Long story short, the right button is stuck, and I would like to open the case to fix it. I have tried removing the two screws from the bottom under the feet, but not sure what to do next. Anyone tried to open their router case before? Any type of teardown advice would be great. I am way outside of my warranty. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
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I don't have a solution for you, but that did happen to me when I first got mine as a best buy refurb purchase. I returned it and bought a new one cheaper on amazon. But maybe try to unjam it with a knife? At your own risk of course.
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I tried messing with the button as much as I felt comfortable, but the true solution is to open the case and put it back the way that it is supposed to go. I did find this http://trenchphysics.blogspot.com/ but it's not for the DGL 4500. I will also try youtube tonight. I couldn't find any teardown info on the DGL 4500 so I started searching other models with similar builds (DIR router teardown dissassembly etc) on google. I plan on having this thing open tonight.
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I don't remember exactly how the inside looks but my advice would be to look out for the little wire that connect the screen to the router. Be very careful that's all. I remember having some pictures of the inside but can't seem to find the link. I will try though. Cya good luck.
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Chris
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Don't forget that I don't know how to get to the inside. After reading the through the site for the DIR 655 I'm assuming that I just take out the bottom screws and shove a screwdriver in the back by the Ethernet ports and twist. If this sounds right please post.
Thanks,
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Figured it out. There are two screws on the bottom. Then you push on the front above the power light. This area is glossy, not matte. This releases a plastic hook inside. Next you continue to push in on the front and begin to push up (same place, Just above the power light. The whole top pops off. Don't worry about the cable powering the blue LED display, it is long enough to take the top off and flip it over without disconnecting. Figuring out how to get the exterior buttons (plastic) to line up with the interior button (metal box with white tiny plastic industrial looking button) took a little more finesse. I removed the plastic button holster from two tiny plastic ****gs with the blade of a small flat head screwdriver. Careful! If you break these you will be using super glue to get your buttons back on. I re-bent the plastic spring (Long flat C shaped pieces above and below each button) that gives the buttons that familiar feel, then pushed the button holster back onto the plastic ****gs. I reassembled the whole unit and it works like a charm. I should note that I attempted to adjust the buttons without removing the button holster first, but the plastic button springs were bent, and they can't be bent back flat without removing them.
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Good information and good to hear its working again. ;D
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I don't understand why it censored the word pr.on.gs If you read my above post and see asterisks there that is what the word says. By P-r-o-n-g-s I mean the two plastic pieces that the button holster attaches to. They look like the the male side of a snap button, only very thin and very close together. I am curious to see if it the site censors the word pr on gs again. That is why I am writing it a bunch of different ways.
P r 0 n g 5 Har har har.