D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Network and WIreless Adapters => DWA-556 => Topic started by: volterwd on September 11, 2008, 03:51:11 PM
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After installing my comp first locked up and after uninstalling and resetting it, this was fixed... i however was in for a greater treat when i turned off my computer... it kept restarting. Sleep mode, restart. Hibernate, restart.
D-link support acknowledged that this is a known problem.
They suggested
1) Update BIOS which is at the highest possible version atm
2) Try all the different drivers (including the one on the disc)
My BIOS is already updated and i tried all the drivers including the most up to date atheros drivers.
Not resolved. Problem immediately disappears when uninstalled... the question is whether I should immediately disappear as a d-link customer (of a long time) because faulty products are being sold without warning. As if it couldn't be posted on this forum.
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With adapters sometimes comes compatiblity issues. What is the make and model of your main board?
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I am also having this problem on a Biostar/Mach Speed system. Uninstalled drivers, tried every version same problem, constant restarts. Uninstall card and go back to another brand , no problems. Version 1.30 also breaks Windows XP (and Vista from what I can gather from other user forums) fast user switching and the normal multi user login/startup screen. Windows will not allow the service to be started and specifically names wlangina.dll as the file preventing fast user switching and normal logon from being used (and probably preventing normal shutdown as well) This file is noted in a driver fix from the same timeframe for the sister card DWA-552 and is causing problems there as well. Running WinXP SP# Socket 939 AMD X2 3800 all drivers and bios are up to date, Nvidia video. Seemed ok with v1.20 updated to 1.21 problems , 1.30 made things worse and can't seem to go back top an earlier version that didn't do this problem stays there for all drivers now. Please fix this as windows is "allergic" to aborted startups and this will cause other problem down the road.
Satisfied when card works, peeved at the problems with these half baked drivers.
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We are aware of this situation and so is PM. There is a work around for this issue. Uninstall the drivers and D-Link utility completely and re-install the drivers only. Do not run the Setup utility. I'll keep you guys posted on any new updates.
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So I just bought a DWA-556 card for my brand new PC with Vista 32, and lo and behold, I can't shut down my computer because it reboots instead. I didn't install the setup utility, since it's Vista. Now what?
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So I just bought a DWA-556 card for my brand new PC with Vista 32, and lo and behold, I can't shut down my computer because it reboots instead. I didn't install the setup utility, since it's Vista. Now what?
Hello mumsy,
Apologies - But don't fret. Boot the computer in Safe Mode (Press F8 right after startup). Remove all the dlink references in the Programs and Features tool located in the control panel. Or press Ctrl + R and type "msconfig." Click on the Startup tab on top and then click "Disable All." Restart the computer and it should come up normally.
Now, attempt to install the driver only again. The setup file you downloaded may actually contain the software still; I need to download it to confirm. But to install the driver only, locate it on the CD in the drivers/vista folder. Just copy the contents to the desktop and install the driver from there.
Best of Luck,
Russell
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I uninstalled all drivers, but the problem persists. I don't even need to boot Vista. If I try to power down during post, the system reboots instead.
What's even weirder is that if turn off my PC and unplug the card, I can plug it back in AND MY PC BOOTS UP! This isn't a driver issue; it's a hardware problem.
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mumsy,
What is your system specs/info? Please include as much detail as you can.
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Sure thing. Here you go:
AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+
Foxconn A78AX-S AM2+/AM2 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
EVGA 512-P3-N861-TR GeForce 9600 GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card
OCZ SLI-Ready Edition 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
HITACHI Deskstar 7K1000 HDS721075KLA330 (0A35154) 750GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX TX 650W Power Supply
Sony FD MPF9201121-1/MPF920-Z (Z/121) 6082 1.44MB 3.5in Floppy Disk Drive
LG 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model GH22LS30
Vista Ultimate 32 (fresh install, all Microsoft recommended updates)
And of course, the DWA-556.
However, I don't even need to have my hard drive plugged in to have the reboot problem. This is not a driver issue.
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Getting answer here is as rare as hen's teeth. I can't even get a simple antenna question answered. I think you should RMA it back. It is a hardware problem.
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PackedFunk,
The reason I presume you got no responses to your antenna question is because it is exactly the same as many others you could find if you searches for antenna, antennae, antennas, or aerials. Below are 3 I have personally participated in.
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=2043.0
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=1175.30
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=3080.0
Search is your friend, failing to do so, or complaining is less effective.
mumsy,
If your PC doesn't even get to loading the MBR call in, get it RMA'ed. This is defective.
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Easier to just answer simple antenna question than to make such a big deal out of it.
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I'm on a fresh install of Vista Ultimate SP1 and having similar problems with the 7.3.1.42 driver.
I tried installing with the driver only, but got a failed to install correctly message. I then tried installing from setup.exe on the installation CD-ROM but it reported that no wireless adapter was detected (and told me to connect it now ha!).
In safe mode, I could install using the driver only, but after a reboot the device would fail to start again!!
When the wireless configuration utility is installed, will open and appear on screen for a split second then disappear (note: the device is still not running properly according to device manager). The process is still present in task manager but will not stay open.
Very disappointed especially as the product is advertised as Vista compatible, and yet so many people are having problems. On the verge of RMA'ing and switching to a different vendor :( A shame, as I have a D-Link DIR-655 which I like.
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Apologies - But don't fret. Boot the computer in Safe Mode (Press F8 right after startup). Remove all the dlink references in the Programs and Features tool located in the control panel. Or press Ctrl + R and type "msconfig." Click on the Startup tab on top and then click "Disable All." Restart the computer and it should come up normally.
Now, attempt to install the driver only again. The setup file you downloaded may actually contain the software still; I need to download it to confirm. But to install the driver only, locate it on the CD in the drivers/vista folder. Just copy the contents to the desktop and install the driver from there.
Unfortunately this has not helped for me.
I am now trying a multitude of different atheros drivers (any for Vista x64 that I can find). So far I have tried:
- 7.3.1.42 (shipped on the cd)
- 7.4.2.48 (packaged as "DWA-556_driver_V2-10b02.zip" on ftp://ftp.dlink.co.uk/wireless/dwa-556/ (ftp://ftp.dlink.co.uk/wireless/dwa-556/))
- 7.4.2.87 (shipped on the cd)
- 7.6.0.114 (inside atheros_V7.6.0.114(www.station-drivers.com).exe)
They either result in a Code 10:
This device cannot start. (Code 10)
or a Code 39:
Windows cannot load the device driver for this hardware. The driver may be corrupted or missing. (Code 39)
Also have problems randomly with hanging whilst shutting down.
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PackedFunk,
I never said the question was easy, I said it had been answered many times before. In fact since we have such a well versed membership attempts to make it an easy question usually fail and we have to get into some of the nitty gritty.
I also never made a big deal of it, I simply called into question why you felt the need to discuss it in a completely unrelated thread. Especially since you erroneously positioned it as a failure on the part of D-Link.
Everyone Else,
Did we determine that the thread was on cards that could not get passed POST? If not then new "me too" posts should concern a defective card from factory that prevents booting past POST.
To avoid dropping the OPs problem into the cloudy abyss somewhere, as well as to make your distinct issue more visible, I implore anyone who has a problem that is not 100% identical to an existing thread to post a new thread for their difficulty.
If you feel that you have a related issue then feel free to link people back to your thread, but unless your symptoms are perfectly in sync, posting to a different issue's thread is wasting your time and the OPs.
Personally, I would create a new thread, even if a apparently similar issue had been posted. That way I could make the D-Link mods consider my case apart from the demented ramblings that may be present on just any thread. This is doubly true when you consider the sheer mass of half formulated issues that become hot topics due to "me too" posts before the OP had even clearly communicated his full problem.
Or worst of all are resurrected a month afterwords to present a gripe which has nothing to to with the issue at hand. Which then spawns the unrelated "me too" posts, as the thread is apparently in vogue again. No one in their right mind would think this particular thread is a home of meaningful discourse at this point.
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Everyone Else,
Did we determine that the thread was on cards that could not get passed POST? If not then new "me too" posts should concern a defective card from factory that prevents booting past POST.
To avoid dropping the OPs problem into the cloudy abyss somewhere, as well as to make your distinct issue more visible, I implore anyone who has a problem that is not 100% identical to an existing thread to post a new thread for their difficulty.
If you feel that you have a related issue then feel free to link people back to your thread, but unless your symptoms are perfectly in sync, posting to a different issue's thread is wasting your time and the OPs.
Personally, I would create a new thread, even if a apparently similar issue had been posted. That way I could make the D-Link mods consider my case apart from the demented ramblings that may be present on just any thread. This is doubly true when you consider the sheer mass of half formulated issues that become hot topics due to "me too" posts before the OP had even clearly communicated his full problem.
Or worst of all are resurrected a month afterwords to present a gripe which has nothing to to with the issue at hand. Which then spawns the unrelated "me too" posts, as the thread is apparently in vogue again. No one in their right mind would think this particular thread is a home of meaningful discourse at this point.
Thanks for the advice, and although I agree that a new thread might be appropriate, often it is unclear as to whether or not problems are/aren't related! Also I think users are sometimes scared of making new posts because many forum moderators / users around the world scream at users for posting what they determine to be "already posted threads". "Use the search function!!!" etc ;)
Can I ask, are you an employee of D-Link fatman? To class this thread as meaningless (despite my attempt to post some relevant information) is rather unhelpful, when some people are posting information and being nice in an attempt to get help. This is not an attack on you personally, or D-Link. I am just suprised by the lack of official D-Link replies in this particular area of the forum :( (oh and packedfunk was rude... I understand your annoyance with him/her).
With regard to my problem, I have read elsewhere on this forum that a code 10 = hardware failure. Despite mentioning this in the first phone call, I have just finished my third call to technical support. They have escalated this to "level 2 support" and I am waiting to hear back from them. Fingers crossed they will acknowledge the device as faulty!
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I understand the confusion and thank you for your meaningful discourse on this subject.
Not searching applies to questions with definite answers a lot more than problems. That is not to say you should not search for your problem, but that if there isn't a 100% correlation, and/or the thread has gone stagnant, we will not fault you for creating a thread. I may be out of line here, but I don't think we have ever seen D-Link comment that we have too many similar threads.
Yes, I am a D-Link employee. Anyone who had a badge below their name with a title like "Tech Engineer" is D-Link staff. I was also slightly ahead of myself to classify this thread as meaningless (this diversion is proof of that), I do however feel that the comments I made as to why the thread is helping no one were just. I wholeheartedly believe you would receive a whole lot more relevant attention from myself and others if you started a thread relevant to just your issue.
To address the apparent lack of D-Link involvement I am going to try to explain the D-Link approach to these forums. This is a place where the community can come together to help each other and discuss their particular issues. The D-Link staff are here as moderators, we are not expected, nor could we treat every thread like it was a tech support call. We do help when and where we can, but our expectation is that this will eventually become a place where customers can help each other, as well as a cornucopia of knowledge. At no point should any thread have the expectation of D-Link involvement.
As for your code 10, it has been a long time since I have worked with adapter cards (hence why I mod the business class product boards). But as I recall it can be either a driver or a hardware issue, with a strong preference twords being a hardware issue. Tech Support should be able to bring this to resolution in short order.