D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: Kurai on February 09, 2011, 02:35:03 PM
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BRAND NEW DIR 655. Took a bit to get working. Connected at 300mbps beautifully. Then I started to notice I was lagging--I checked my connection speed and it's back down to 130mpbs.
I made sure to do WPA2 only, 20/40 range... I don't know what else to do to make it "stick" to the speed I want. It's obviously quite capable of it. If I reboot it it connects at that speed.... it just randomly reverts back to 130.
Any help would be much appreciated; I'd hate to have to RMA the thing.
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Choose channel manually
20/40
N only, if your needs are N only.
Uncheck "extra wireless protection" if not needed.
Make sure NIC is connecting properly full Duplex. Set manually if you have to. If it is a USB NIC, any other USB devices on your computer will slow you down accordingly. USB NICS are only good if you have no other choice. USB speeds will be disappointingly slow no matter what.
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So far stuck on ch 6 and holding steady at 300mbps.
I do have a USB NIC but I did so by choice; my old NIC was a POS Linksys WRN300 that I am happy to be rid of; my new Rosewill RNX-N180UBE wireless USB NIC is awesome.
We shall see how things remain..
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I take it back. I disconnected and reconnected and it's back to 130 again. At least with my POS Linksys router I was at around 216. :(
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I forgot to mention one important item. Do not load the d-link connection manager at all. Do everything from the microsoft wireless connection manager. D-link software causes disconnections and slow speed readings.
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The only thing Dlink related I have been accessing is the control panel through the router itself to change the settings (although I can't find where I can turn off "extra wireless protection").
At this point this is the pattern: I will be connected at 130mbps. I will go in to the router settings and manually change a channel--1,2,4, it doesn't matter. It will then reconnect (usually) at 300mpbs. Then, if my computer goes into sleep mode or I restart, it will only connect at 130mbps again when it's woken up again. It's like it forgets what to allow us to connect at when a 300mbps connection is broken.
I have a laptop that operates on b/g only so I don't want to go strictly n for this connection. But I need to figure out what it is that is preventing our computers from always connecting at 300mpbs without my having to go into the control panel and change something every time.
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Can't think of too much else. Only these rules:
Turn off anything you don't need...multicasting, upnp, etc.
Make sure the NIC is the only thing plugged into your USB ports. If you have disk drives, mouse, keyboard, memory stick or anything else USB, your bus speed will be horrible. If it's an old laptop, you may have a USB 1.x port which is half the speed of newer USB.
Speed may be computed in "bursts." When you boot the unit, there is a fast burst of LOCAL packets going through and speed looks good. Without constant local packet traffic, readings may be averages (including idle time), which will seem lower. That is nothing to worry about. Your ISP or websites may not be too "swift" either, severly averaging down your readings.
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I have no choice but to use a USB mouse and keyboard--they don't exactly make them for use with other ports now. Heck there ARE no other ports.
The machine (a desktop) is new. 2.8ghz i7 processor, 16gb ram.... 22meg Comcast connection. The actual antenna is actually connected to my USB 3.0 port now just for kicks and giggles and it made no difference. It seems to me that logically, if it is perfectly capable of connecting to 300mpbs with a bit of manipulation, it should be able to do so automatically.
I might add that the same thing is occurring to my spouse's computer, and that machine is still currently using a PCI wireless N card--so I don't think it's the USB that is being problematic.
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Hi Kural,
What is your Internal Transmission Rate set at? Best (automatic)?
Security Mode WPA-Personal?
WPA Mode: WPA2 Only?
Cipher Type: AES?
Group Key Update Interval: 3600?
Wireless Channel should be set to a specific Channel. I found that Channel 11 gives the highest connection Speed.
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Yes to all of the above. And while I have it set manually to ch 11, it doesn't seem to make a difference.
I tried DLink phone support. They were about as useful as a bucket full of holes. I explained the problem, the man on the phone hurriedly gave me poor directions how to update my firmware version, told me how to RMA it if it didn't work, and nearly hung up on me in his hurry to get off the phone. Updating to most recent firmware did nothing, for what it's worth.
I just don't understand how essentially "restarting" the router/broadcast connection (which is what it essentially does after a change is made) will connect me at 300, but the moment that connection is dropped--either by disconnecting the antenna or just disconnecting via the utility--it suddenly is unable to connect at 300 anymore.
It does the same thing on my husband's desktop with his wireless adapter (which is NOT USB) so it almost has to be a router thing.
And if it matters, we both run Windows 7 home edition.
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And actually, an odd question: Is it possible that my computer is giving me a "false positive" on the connection speed? I just ran a speed test when it was telling me I was connected at 130 and at 300, and the results were nearly identical.
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Yes, that is what I indicated in so many words. As long as things seem to be moving along without obvious hitch, speed is fine.
Speeds indicated are not accurate, just averaged by timeslices, I guess.
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Best way to see what your transmission rate is to log into the router and view the Status > wireless page. If you are using non-DLink adapters you probably won't see the 300 rate under normal usage.
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Davet31, that would make more sense though if it never connected at 300 at all. That's not the case here; it simply won't REconnect at 300 if the connection is dropped for whatever reason, until essentially the router is rebooted.
I'm more inclined to believe it's just not reading properly. I'm on a Comcast 16 meg connection and doing speedtests in several different locations gave me results of around 25 meg when it was showing either 300 or 130.
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Davet31, that would make more sense though if it never connected at 300 at all. That's not the case here; it simply won't REconnect at 300 if the connection is dropped for whatever reason, until essentially the router is rebooted.
I'm more inclined to believe it's just not reading properly. I'm on a Comcast 16 meg connection and doing speedtests in several different locations gave me results of around 25 meg when it was showing either 300 or 130.
Hi Kurai,
What is your WAN PORT Speed on the D-Link? It should be set to Auto.
The Internet Speed Test is different from your Home Network speed.
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Where were you seeing the 300 listed from the computer or the router under the Status > Wireless page? The best reading is taken from the router itself, the Windows reading may not be accurate.
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Edit: Wan Port speed is set to 10/100/1000/Auto.
And the Status > Wireless tells me also 130.
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I have a laptop with a TrendNet PCMCIA adapter which usually connects at 270 on the computer, but the router will show anywhere from 160 to 300 depending on what's going on with the computer. However, now and then it will only show 130 on the computer and it will then also show 130 on the router. When this happens, I've found the cause is that the adapter didn't pick up the second channel. Rebooting the router or changing a wireless setting and saving it usually fixes the problem (just the opposite of your situation). I have another laptop with an Intel N adapter which can only connect at 130. Nothing I've done has enabled that adapter to see the second channel.
I throw this out as you may be having a similar problem. I look forward to any solutions.
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Actually that's identical to my situation. :) But the problem is it's EVERY. TIME. I RESTART MY CONNECTION. I can't be rebooting my router every time I turn on my computer; and I refuse to log into the router settings every time and manually select a new channel. There has to be something going on here that can be resolved without all this headache.
I'm using a Rosewill RNX N180UBE usb adapter on my machine, hubby is using Linksys WRT300 PCI card. It happens on both.
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Actually that's identical to my situation. :) But the problem is it's EVERY. TIME. I RESTART MY CONNECTION. I can't be rebooting my router every time I turn on my computer; and I refuse to log into the router settings every time and manually select a new channel. There has to be something going on here that can be resolved without all this headache.
I'm using a Rosewill RNX N180UBE usb adapter on my machine, hubby is using Linksys WRT300 PCI card. It happens on both.
Hi Kurai,
D-Link does not guarantee a 300 Mbps connection. It does guarantee a 300 Mbps connection to the D-Link Router DIR-655 if you are using Matching Adapters, as seen from the Computer.
http://www.dlink.com/products/?tab=3&pid=DIR-655&rev=DIR-655_revB (http://www.dlink.com/products/?tab=3&pid=DIR-655&rev=DIR-655_revB)
click on Works With.
Why didn't you buy a Rosewill or Linksys Router , instead of a D-Link Router? If you have matching adapters, you won't see the problem you are having.
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I understand that they do not guarantee it.
Because this one had been given such great reviews and I have developed a lingering disgust for Linksys after as much trouble as I had with my old one. I have no idea how well Rosewill routers work either. Obviously I made a wrong choice with Dlink.
As for their guarantee--again, CLEARLY I am capable of connecting at that speed. There is just something wrong with the router that will not allow it to connect at that speed without reboot.
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Use a program like inSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider/) to check for other networks in your area, the router may be throttling down because it detects other networks in your area. The throttling down is due to the "Good Neighbor" policy that is part of the "N" specs.
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What you have is probaly a component mismatch issue. I have an iPad that connects at 65, 3 PCs through a DAP1522 @ 270, 230 and 130, a Sony DVD through another DAP1522 @ 300' and 2 other devices through Netgear Internet adapters @ 240 and 230.
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I have the exact same issue. I recently purchased a DIR-655 rev.B1 to take advantage of the native IPv6 connection that my DSL ISP offers. I previously had a DIR-655 rev.A4 (and A3) and because of that I decided to go with the rev.B1 upgrade because my rev.A4 was rock solid. On the rev.A4 unit all wireless N adapters connected anywhere from 216-300 Mbps. Now the rev.B1 connects to all of the same hardware from 56-130 Mbps. No other changes and I'm using the same settings from my A4 but the wireless connection starts in the 40 MHz band and then suddenly drops to the 20 MHz band and won't reconnect at 40 unless you reboot the router. The problem seems to be with the wireless band rate auto selection, as it seems to prefer 20 MHz and there is no way to force a 40 MHz connection.
And before anyone asks I have the wireless connection set to N-Only, WPA2 only, AES encryption and 20/40 Auto. I'm not a newb and I have been using the DIR-655 for 4 years in some revision or another. This is the first wireless connection issue I have experienced.
D-Link we need this fixed in the next firmware update, this is the only major issue I have found with the new revision.
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I have the exact same issue. I recently purchased a DIR-655 rev.B1 to take advantage of the native IPv6 connection that my DSL ISP offers. I previously had a DIR-655 rev.A4 (and A3) and because of that I decided to go with the rev.B1 upgrade because my rev.A4 was rock solid. On the rev.A4 unit all wireless N adapters connected anywhere from 216-300 Mbps. Now the rev.B1 connects to all of the same hardware from 56-130 Mbps. No other changes and I'm using the same settings from my A4 but the wireless connection starts in the 40 MHz band and then suddenly drops to the 20 MHz band and won't reconnect at 40 unless you reboot the router. The problem seems to be with the wireless band rate auto selection, as it seems to prefer 20 MHz and there is no way to force a 40 MHz connection.
And before anyone asks I have the wireless connection set to N-Only, WPA2 only, AES encryption and 20/40 Auto. I'm not a newb and I have been using the DIR-655 for 4 years in some revision or another. This is the first wireless connection issue I have experienced.
D-Link we need this fixed in the next firmware update, this is the only major issue I have found with the new revision.
Hi 88keyz,
First of all, you stated that you are using the exact same settings. I assume you entered all settings by hand?
Two. There has been a Firmware Upgrade for the B1 Version to 2.01NA.
You must do a Factory Reset before and after applying the Firmware.
All settings must be manually reentered. Else you will have problems, as you are.
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Yes, I am running the 2.01 firmware. Yes, I have factory reset the router. Yes, the settings were input by hand.
Are you running a B1 revision router? Because if you are not how can you possibly have any clue what you are talking about. I don't want to be rude but I'm tired of people trying to tell people in this thread "its your settings", "its your hardware", "its not supported", that is all bulls#!t. The exact same wireless settings on the A4 and A3 revisions worked perfect, but they don't work on the B1. So please, unless you have something constructive to add to the conversation other than suggesting that the B1 owners are doing something wrong, then please don't add anything.
Again, and I address D-Link, please fix this obvious issue. Its not a hardware issue, its a software issue and the software issue lies in the firmware. Its present in both 2.00 and 2.01.
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Yes, I am running the 2.01 firmware. Yes, I have factory reset the router. Yes, the settings were input by hand.
Are you running a B1 revision router? Because if you are not how can you possibly have any clue what you are talking about. I don't want to be rude but I'm tired of people trying to tell people in this thread "its your settings", "its your hardware", "its not supported", that is all bulls#!t. The exact same wireless settings on the A4 and A3 revisions worked perfect, but they don't work on the B1. So please, unless you have something constructive to add to the conversation other than suggesting that the B1 owners are doing something wrong, then please don't add anything.
Again, and I address D-Link, please fix this obvious issue. Its not a hardware issue, its a software issue and the software issue lies in the firmware. Its present in both 2.00 and 2.01.
Hi 88keyz,
No, I am not running the B1 Version. I set up the B1 Version for 2 friends, so I have first hand knowledge of that unit, and the problems I faced.
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88keys,
That is funny because I have the 655 B1 and have not noticed any speed issues (usually mid 200s - 300). So, in other words, I am not convinced it is a software issue.
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Same here.. I have a DIR-655, two laptops connected using DWA-160 and a NAS DNS-321. I have the settings as explained in the sticky note and running the latest software on all devices. After flashing to 2.01NA I did a factory reset and set the router manually again. The same problem was happening with the previous firmware 2.0NA. I'm getting a steady 130 Mbps connection. The only time I get 300 is after rebooting the router but after a while start bouncing back and forth until it sets to 130.
Have you found the solution 88Keys?
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And, yes I have revision B1...
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The DWA-160 uses Dual-Band to achieve maximum speeds, since the 655 is only 2.4 you won't see 300 with that adapter. If you want max speed with that adapter you need a Dual-Band router (855 or 825)
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I disagree with you. I had the DIR-825 before and had to switch to the DIR-655 but that's another story. The DWA-160 connects to either the 2.4 or 5.0 ghz frequencies, so does not uses both at the same time. This adapter is also listed as one of the recommended equipment in the "works with" section in the dlink website so it should be capable to connect at 300 Mbps ALL THE TIME. I do achieve 300, the problem is that does not keeps the connection for long and bounce back to anything lower until it sets at 130 Mbps.
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Hi Another Joe,
Uncheck Enable Auto Channel Scan. and manually select the highest channel and leave each channel there for one day and see what happens.
When I had Enable Auto Channel Scan checked, I could not connect at 300 Mbps when viewed from the computer.
When viewing from the Router's http://192.168.0.1/Status/Wireless.shtml (http://192.168.0.1/Status/Wireless.shtml) the speed wavers. From actively using the connection or its idle speed. It does not need to have a constant speed of 300 Mbps.
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"Works with" has nothing to do with getting the 300 speed . Just means that it will pick up a signal from the router. The overview of the 160 specifically mentioned the 825 and 855 that's why I mentioned them.
This is right the DWA-160 product page:
* Maximum wireless signal rate derived from IEEE Standard 802.11g, 802.11a, and 802.11n specifications. Actual data throughput will vary. Network conditions and environmental factors, including volume of network traffic, building materials and construction, and network overhead, lower actual data throughput rate. Environmental factors will adversely affect wireless signal range. Wireless range and speed rates are D-Link RELATIVE performance measurements based on the wireless range and speed rates of a standard Wireless G product from D-Link. Maximum throughput based on D-Link 802.11n devices.
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davevt31 - Your quote from the DWA-160 page does not says it uses both bands to achieve 300. In fact, I could change which band to use under device properties. I tried selecting 2.4 only and did not made a difference versus 2.4/5.0. Thanks for helping.
thecreator - I'll try your recommendations and report back.
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I just want to say when I first bought my 655 I bought a linksys WUSB300N and when it connected an N speed it would drop to like 12mbps so I would connect at G to get a faster speed. Later I bought a DWA-140 (installed with the ralink drivers) and all my wireless speed problems went away.
With the DWA-140 I now connect between 270-300 100% of the time.
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Use the program INSSIDER (http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider/) to check what channels any neighbors might be using.
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That's an excellent tool, I was able to see twice the amount of networks than with dlink or windows connection utility. I picked a channel that nobody was using (Ch. 8 ). The connection was fluctuating between 270 to 300 for an hour approximately but went down to 130 again. When idle it could go down to 58 Mbps. I just bought a DWA-140 on ebay to check if the DWA-160 does not work as expected with this router. I'll report back later.
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The problem is most likely because of the WiFi good neighbor policy.
Even if you set the router for 40MHz it will fall back to 20Mhz when/if it is interfering with other 2.4 networks in your area.
You will not get N speeds when the router falls back.
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I tried all the recommendations you guys gave me and still with the same issue. I tried also the DWA-140 and the problem persists. Any other advice? How can I get 300 Mbps? Did anyone found the issue (ie. 88keyz)?
Somebody mentioned using the DWA-140 with ralink drivers. Does anyone know where I can find them?
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I tried all the recommendations you guys gave me and still with the same issue. I tried also the DWA-140 and the problem persists. Any other advice? How can I get 300 Mbps? Did anyone found the issue (ie. 88keyz)?
Somebody mentioned using the DWA-140 with ralink drivers. Does anyone know where I can find them?
Hi Another Joe,
I can't answer that, but I have a D-Link DIR-655 A3 Router and installed in my Wireless Computer is a D-Link DWA-552 Wireless Ethernet PCI Adapter with 3 Antennas.
From the Tips as the mouse passes over the Wireless Network Connection, its speed is shown at 300.0 Mbps.
In the Router's Settings Status Page, it shows 270 Mbps connection.
What version of the DWA-140 are you using? DWA-140 or DWA-140 REVB?
Have you played around with the positioning of the Antenna on the D-Link Router?
Try it.
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I tried all the recommendations you guys gave me and still with the same issue. I tried also the DWA-140 and the problem persists. Any other advice? How can I get 300 Mbps? Did anyone found the issue (ie. 88keyz)?
Somebody mentioned using the DWA-140 with ralink drivers. Does anyone know where I can find them?
No matter what anyone else says I know what I've experienced and the rev.B series hardware doesn't maintain 300Mbps like the rev.A series hardware does.
I have had some success using InSSIDer to scan the channels of other AP's in the area and I found that almost every other AP was on channel 1, 6 or 11. By setting channel 8 manually I was able to maintain 300 Mbps for a much longer period of time. I believe this is due to a more strict good neighbor policy on the rev.B hardware compared to the rev.A hardware. Rev.A hardware would maintain 300 Mbps under almost any circumstances this doesn't appear to the case with rev.B hardware.
To get the best results with InSSIDer I would suggest installing it on a notebook/netbook and getting up as high as you can inside your home or apartment (ie. top floor of your house or nearer the ceiling in your apartment) to help you find the most AP's. On the second floor of my house I was able to detect 24 AP's, in my basement only 5. Then analyze the channel traffic and pick an unused channel if available. Reboot your router and hope for the best. Try to avoid 1, 6 and 11 as these seem to be default settings on many, many routers.
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That's an excellent tool, I was able to see twice the amount of networks than with dlink or windows connection utility. I picked a channel that nobody was using (Ch. 8 ). The connection was fluctuating between 270 to 300 for an hour approximately but went down to 130 again. When idle it could go down to 58 Mbps. I just bought a DWA-140 on ebay to check if the DWA-160 does not work as expected with this router. I'll report back later.
Hi Another Joe,
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=616.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=616.0)
3) The channel width needs to be set to 20/40Auto, if it is not, the adapter will report a connection speed of 130Mbps. This is a feature that was added for compatibility with Intel 802.11N adapters, as they only operate on a channel width of 20.
and
Note: Not all Intel adapters are the same as D-Links' N line. Some Intel adapters do not support the broader 40 Channel Width option. This (by design) limits their connection speed to 130. Check the specifications of your Intel adapter to ensure that it is capable of bonding on the 40Mhz range to achieve the full 300Mbps
-Lycan
If you are using a D-Link Router with a D-Link Adapter and only achieving 130 Mbps, your Router may be defective or the adapter may be defective, in that it can't stay in the broader 40 Channel Width.
Hence, you are seeing 130 Mbps.
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I'll try contacting D-link customer service to see if they can figured it out or replace the router. Thanks.
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Cobras post is right. Please refer to http://www.wi-fi.org/knowledge_center_overview.php?type=2
I heard Wi-Fi CERTIFIED n products can cause interference problems with other Wi-Fi networks. Is this true?
"In some configurations, Wi-Fi CERTIFIED n can interfere with other Wi-Fi networks when these products are trying to achieve the best performance using 40 MHz channels in the 2.4 GHz band. However, all products that are Wi-Fi CERTIFIED n that can operate in this mode are required to implement a "good neighbor" protocol that helps ensure interference is not a problem. This is another important reason to buy only Wi-Fi CERTIFIED n equipment. "
Basically older Draft-N routers and older revisions did not necessarily require a forced good neighbour policy. Wi-Fi certified N products can co-exist with 20/40 only if the router or AP determines there are no chance for conflict.
This mechnism does not apply with the 5ghz band.
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I was the one who mentioned the ralink drivers. I heard about them in the reviews for the DWA-140 on newegg. That's what I used and I've had no problems at all. I run windows vista home basic 32 bit.
Ralink drivers can be found at the link below.
The drivers you're looking for are RT2870 (for the DWA-140)
http://www.ralinktech.com/support.php
Hope this answers your question.
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My Girlfriend and I are using the same Wireless N 300 Mb/s USB nic, her computer is running Windows Vista x64 and my computer is running Windows 7 x64. The problem i'm having is that my computer connects at 270 Mb/s where her computer only connects at about 84 Mb/s it doesn't make any sense, both computer are around the same place in respect to the router. I have checked both of our network settings and they are as similar as they can get between Win7 and Win Vista. I can't quite figure this out. Any suggestions?
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Are the drivers for the USB nic up to date?
Is the router running single mode N at 5Ghz?
Possible that the bandwidth between the router and her USB Nic is messing up.
Check the properties on the USB Nic as well. Might have to tweek some of the settings there.
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My Girlfriend and I are using the same Wireless N 300 Mb/s USB nic, her computer is running Windows Vista x64 and my computer is running Windows 7 x64. The problem i'm having is that my computer connects at 270 Mb/s where her computer only connects at about 84 Mb/s it doesn't make any sense, both computer are around the same place in respect to the router. I have checked both of our network settings and they are as similar as they can get between Win7 and Win Vista. I can't quite figure this out. Any suggestions?
Hi TyanColte,
Make sure that she is running the Drivers for Vista 64. Make sure that her USB Wireless Ethernet Adapter is plugged directly into the Motherboard's USB port.
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Hi TyanColte,
Make sure that she is running the Drivers for Vista 64. Make sure that her USB Wireless Ethernet Adapter is plugged directly into the Motherboard's USB port.
I'm using the USB extension Cable that came with it, should i not be using that?
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I'm using the USB extension Cable that came with it, should i not be using that?
Hi TyanColte,
Try the Ethernet Adapter by plugging directly into the Motherboard USB Port. Don't use any Extension Cables. Take them out of the equation.
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Hi Another Joe,
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=616.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=616.0)
If you are using a D-Link Router with a D-Link Adapter and only achieving 130 Mbps, your Router may be defective or the adapter may be defective, in that it can't stay in the broader 40 Channel Width.
Hence, you are seeing 130 Mbps.
I think I may have figured the cause of my problem. Dlink support staff couldn’t determine the issue so they ruled that the router was defective. I got a new router and still experiencing the same problem (router falls back to 130Mbps). I moved the router around my house to isolate possible sources of interference, no luck either. I tried multiple configurations of network adapters DWA-140,160 and internal cards all operating with the latest firmware versions. Here are my results:
• Base scenario: Hp laptop (Win xp) with DWA-160 HW A1 and Compaq laptop (Vista) with DWA-160 HW B1.
- Initial connection speed of 300 Mbps but falls back to 130 after couple minutes.
• Scenario A: Hp laptop (Win xp) with DWA-160 HW A1
- Connection stable at 300 Mbps (24 hrs +)
• Scenario B: Compaq laptop (Vista) with DWA-160 HW B1
- Initial connection speed of 300 Mbps but falls back to 130 after couple minutes.
• Scenario C: Compaq laptop (Vista) with DWA-160 HW A1
- Connection stable at 300 Mbps (24 hrs +)
• Scenario D: Hp laptop (Win xp) with DWA-160 HW A1 and Dell laptop (Win xp, internal intel adapter)
- Hp laptop connected at 300, Dell laptop between 100-160. Stable connection
• Scenario E: Hp laptop (Win xp) with DWA-160 HW A1, Dell laptop (internal intel adapter), Compaq laptop (internal adapter)
- Hp laptop connected at 300, Dell laptop between 100-160, Compaq laptop (g band) at 54. Stable connection
• Scenario F: Compaq laptop with DWA-140 HW B1 installed with Ralink driver
- Initial connection speed of 300 Mbps but falls back to 130 after couple minutes.
• Scenario G: Hp laptop with DWA-160 HW B1
- Initial connection speed of 300 Mbps but falls back to 130 after couple minutes.
It seems that the problem is D-link network adapters with hardware version B locking the DIR-655 frequency at 20 mhz for a fixed connection speed of 130 Mbps. For those of you using DWA-140 hardware B1 and/or DWA-160 hardware B1 with this router; are you experiencing a similar problem?
Next step is getting a cheap DWA-160 version A1 on ebay and selling the other adapters with hardware version B so I can get all my laptops running on As.
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Hi Another Joe,
Have you disabled the onboard Wireless Adapters on the Laptops?
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Hi Another Joe,
Have you disabled the onboard Wireless Adapters on the Laptops?
Yes.
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I found the solution! I bought another DWA-160 HW A1. It was hard to find but it was worth it. Now I have my two laptops connected between 240-300 mbps all the time.
In summary, the problem was compatibility between the DIR-655 HW B1 and DWA-160 or DWA-140 HW B1.
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This is obviously another case where the "B" hardware release is much worse in performance to the "A" version. I have never had a problem with my 655A and I would never purchase a "B" version.
The 655A passes all attempted security tests and the 655B's have yet to pass them cleanly. If that isn't reason enough for your attention, I don't know what is.
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I've never had a problem with my B router either. I'm using FW v2.00.
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On the last thread, you stated that your B didn't cleanly pass the security tests. I would call that a problem, but, that is just me.
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Port 0 is probably not a major problem its only one port and the port IS closed.
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I recently bought a 655-B1 to replace an existing 615-C1.
The router connects to 2 laptops and a tablet (DWA-652, Dell 1505, and ??), as well as an iPod and smartphone. With the 615, I was getting 270-300 consistently with the 652, and about 250 with the Dell. The only issue was that the laptops and the smartphone would drop connection every once in a while, and I'd have to reboot the router.
I bought the 655 on the assumption that a stronger signal would mean better connections, and hopefully that would address the connection issues.
I took screenshots between switching routers, and AFAIK the settings are all the same.
I can get a connection at 300 or so, but the speed always drops down to 130 after a little while.
I just spent most of this past weekend trying to find the magic combination of settings, to no avail.
I still have the same neighbors(!), the hardware hasn't changed; the only difference that I am aware of is that I've changed the model of the router.
It's looking like I will revert to the 615 and see if I can return the 655.
I'm just baffled as to why the 652 (Xtreme N) and the 615 (N 300) performed better than the 652 and the 655 (both Xtreme N).
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What wireless modes are you using?
Try single mode G or mixed G and N?
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/Auto TPIK and AES.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. Try setting manual channel from Auto scan.
Turn off Short GI and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
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settings on DIR-655 (h/w:B1,f/w:2.03NA)
Wireless modes: mixed G/N (old smartphone still uses G)
Security mode: WPA-Personal, Auto(WPA/WPA2), AES
Devices: laptop, tablet, iPod, smartphone
Cordless phones: Yes*
Other routers: Yes* (using Auto scan)
Channel width: 20/40
WAN port speed: 10/100/1000 Auto
Advanced DNS OFF
DNS relay ON
QOS engine disabled
WLAN partition OFF
WMM enable ON
Short GI OFF
Don't see an "extra Wireless protection" setting
*these shouldn't matter, since they're the same for both routers
I actually have the 655 and the 615 side-by-side on my desk, with only one powered up at a time.
I compared the signal % and the rates on the Status/Wireless router screens.
I made no changes to adapter settings on any clients.
The net result was poorer results with the 655 than with the 615.
The laptop showed a 100% signal both times, but it got up to 270M using the 615 and only hit 160M with the 655 - and fell back to 78-104M
I've been a loyal and happy DLink user for quite some time, so I'm truly baffled as to why I seem to be getting poorer connections with a setup that should produce stronger connections.
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What is the frequency of the cordless phones, if 2.4Ghz, they can interfere sometimes.
Try manual channel
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out.
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Sorry, wasn't thinking...
The phones are DECT 6, so they really shouldn't be an issue.
As far as other routers, there are a number of others I can see in the DLink Site survey.
But the routers are only a foot apart, so they're both facing the same interference profile.
Both routers are connecting to the same client adapters.
And both routers are N-band routers.
Why would the newer and supposedly more powerful one actually show worse performance?
Is the 655 more sensitive to interference than the 615?
I only decided to get the 655 because the last adapter I bought was the Xtreme N version.
I'd better check the receipt and see how long I can wait before returning the 655.
I wasn't *really* unhappy with the 615, just had a problem with occasional connection loss.
I can live with the occasional reboot of the router, given that the speeds are better.
I've tried to set up my testing so I could isolate the differences between the two scenarios.
The only difference I'm aware of are the routers (and of course, the firmware and the settings)
I've verified that all the major settings were the same - except for ones that aren't on both routers.
Maybe the antennas are different.
About the only thing I haven't tried is swapping the antennas between routers....
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Sorry, wasn't thinking...
The phones are DECT 6, so they really shouldn't be an issue.
As far as other routers, there are a number of others I can see in the DLink Site survey.
But the routers are only a foot apart, so they're both facing the same interference profile.
Both routers are connecting to the same client adapters.
And both routers are N-band routers.
Why would the newer and supposedly more powerful one actually show worse performance?
Is the 655 more sensitive to interference than the 615?
I only decided to get the 655 because the last adapter I bought was the Xtreme N version.
I'd better check the receipt and see how long I can wait before returning the 655.
I wasn't *really* unhappy with the 615, just had a problem with occasional connection loss.
I can live with the occasional reboot of the router, given that the speeds are better.
I've tried to set up my testing so I could isolate the differences between the two scenarios.
The only difference I'm aware of are the routers (and of course, the firmware and the settings)
I've verified that all the major settings were the same - except for ones that aren't on both routers.
Maybe the antennas are different.
About the only thing I haven't tried is swapping the antennas between routers....
Hi dww,
Read the sticky above for 300 Mbps connections.
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=616.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=616.0)
300 Mbps connection requirements! Please read!
" If you are using encryption the router must be configured to use AES cipher. In some firmware versions/models, the only way to get the AES cipher is to run WPA2. If you can not select the Cipher, selecting WPA2 only will force this cipher type. "
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Don't mean to sound like a broken record, but I'm using the same adapters in both cases. To be specific, I'm using the same DLink DWA-652 card with 2 separate DLink N routers; and getting better sustained speeds with the older and supposedly lower powered one. So based on what you're saying, maybe the newer router requires AES to hit 300, but the older one doesn't.
Like I said before, I'm a long-time DLink customer, so this most likely won't change my brand loyalty. It's just an odd outcome based on my expectations.
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For the newer routers and next gen routers, to reach 300Mb connections, N only and AES only is required.
It's all detailed in the 300Mb connection sticky.
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Don't mean to sound like a broken record, but I'm using the same adapters in both cases. To be specific, I'm using the same DLink DWA-652 card with 2 separate DLink N routers; and getting better sustained speeds with the older and supposedly lower powered one. So based on what you're saying, maybe the newer router requires AES to hit 300, but the older one doesn't.
Like I said before, I'm a long-time DLink customer, so this most likely won't change my brand loyalty. It's just an odd outcome based on my expectations.
Hi dww,
You did not read the sticky.
"3) The channel width needs to be set to 20/40Auto, if it is not, the adapter will report a connection speed of 130Mbps. This is a feature that was added for compatibility with Intel 802.11N adapters, as they only operate on a channel width of 20. "
Also "Also if you have issues with mixed mode, try locking the 802.11Mode to either 802.11N Only or 802.11G/N. "
In other words, having a Mixed Mode of 802.11n and 802.11g will also work. That's the way, mine works.