D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: Elite_Deforce on December 02, 2012, 02:22:32 PM
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Ok so here goes.
I am with Shaw cable and I've been having some crazy connectivity issues lately.
The Shaw modem is connected to my DIR-655, which is my PRIMARY router. That hooks up to another Dlink wired-only router (my house is wired up for Ethernet, so we needed lots of ports). I also am using a Netgear MR814v2 router to repeat the DIR-655's connection in my basement. This is setup as 192.168.11.1. This was actually setup by a computer engineer.
Now, this setup has been working beautifully for me for about a month now, with absolutely NO issues. However, in the past few days, I have been loosing total internet connectivity in only some patches of my setup.
Sometimes, the wireless devices connected to the Netgear still connect, but the wireless devices on the Dlink are a no-go. Sometimes, my Netgear has no connectivity, and my Dlink has all devices working whether wired or wireless. What's even odder is sometimes laptops and desktops (a mix of Windows 7, XP, and one OSX mac) over WIFI connect and work normally, but some iPhones and Android devices are a no go on my DLINK. I have one wired computer connected to the NETGEAR, which sometimes works sometimes doesn't. The difference between the DLINK and the NETGEAR is that the Dlink seems to be selective about providing internet to some devices, whereas the NETGEAR either works or doesn't.
ALL of my devices are able to connect to the routers over WiFi and ethernet, no problem, this is purely internet connectivity I'm talking about.
I called Shaw and they said their end is good. So before I call them again and possible get their modem replaced, is this a problem with my system?
Thanks.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
Has a Factory Reset been performed?
What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.
Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm)
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1.
Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules.
WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
Link>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0)
What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Try turning off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.
Ensure the channels on the Netgear and the DIR router differ if running in AP mode. Not sure if your Netgear is bridged mode or not.
Can you give us a diagram of how our network looks like?
ISP Modem>DIR-655>Netgear as an example
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Thanks for the reply. I actually tried all of those recommendations in another thread you posted them in, to no success.
My network diagrams to basically what you laid out. ISP modem>655>wired router>netgear>user.
I don't think anything is bridged, how would you go about checking that? Also I could try changing channels, but like I said, this setup was working for a while. I will try it nonetheless and see what happens.
My 655 is A3 hardware 1.35na firmware. My netgear is running the latest firmware as well.
ISP modem is A Motorola surfboard sb5102
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Bump.
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I would remove this wired router and Netgear temporarily and test client to DIR-655 and see how it runs. Then add the NetGear on and test again.
What make and model is this "Wired Router"?
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The wired unit is a dlink DGS-1008G.
the problem with testing as you suggest is the way my setup is setup physically, if I ditched the wired switcher, half my house goes dead along with my netgear. I could attach the netgear directly to the 655 but it will be for testing purposes only.
What confuses me is that this setup was working just fine. the worst part is, if I reboot the 655, internet comes back for everyone usually for an undetermined amount of time. so it would be difficult to draw conclusions from this test. I will try nonetheless.
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I would swap cables as well as your testing to be sure. If we an narrow down what is the root cause of the connection issues then we should be able to find out what the next step is.
I would test directly with the 655 and a client or as many as you can get directly connected and see. This is only to see if the problem remains.
Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure. After you have tested the 655 directly.
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Ok, well I have disconnected the 655 from everything and I will be testing with only one device. well see how it goes.
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;)
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So the 655 seems to be the culprit. It took all of the time between my last post till now for it to lose internet access whether over WiFi or Ethernet (I tried both on my laptop. What's the next step? I've already done countless factory resets and I swear the only thing I changed was the WiFi authentication mode (Wep to wpa) c couple of weeks ago,,but that doesn't explain the wired connection going dead as well.
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Ok. So can you still access the routers web page when this happens?
If you can, check the routers logs during this time frame, do you see any entries regarding a loss of connection or re-connection the ISP modem? Might say something about re-acquiring WAN IP address and give the address along with DNS addresses.
I would check to see if the ISP modem is losing connections as well, If your getting access to the router, it's possible the ISP modem is hanging on something. If your on cable, you need to have the ISP check the signal going into the modem and make sure is correct. If there are any T.V. line splitters on the same line before the ISP Modem, this will lower the signal and cause issues there.
Swap out cables between the ISP modem and router to test.
Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure. Can make sure the 655 is correctly configured well for you.
I might ask the ISP if the have a new model modem to use as well. If you have a friend, neighbor or family near by, I recommend taking the 655 to there place and do a quick test to see if the problem follows. If so, then you'll know.
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Yes, I can still access the console. I don't see anything in the logs that could indicate the signal from the modem is dropped... strangely the leds on the 655 still seem like they are handling quite a bit of activity, even though there is nothing connected to it but my device, which has no internet access anyway. When I called my ISP a couple of days ago, they said their signal in my area was fine. If this continues I might ask them to replace my modem maybe.
I'm going to swap cables from my modem to my 655 and power cycle everything. ill post back here with results. cheers.
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Going on 40 min so far so good on the new cable. It has stayed on for longer periods before though, so still crossing fingers.
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Ok if you can still access the routers web page means that the WAN connection is having the problems. Hope the new cable maybe just the issue. :o
Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
Keep us posted.
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So if you had to make an educated guess at this point in time, you would point fingers at either the cable or the Shaw modem,correct?
Yeah unfortunately I think the entire house is wired with cat5, and I have no way of changing that with some considerable work. But, these wires have been running for almost 2 years now without issue, so I don't know.
still crossing fingers here. And still strangely,,the leds on the 655 still show as if activity is definitely happening. so does the activity light on the modem. :'(
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I would presume something between the ISP modem and router and or the ISP modem. Not sure if Shaw allows the use of BYOM, if they do, maybe at some point you could get your own modem. I recommend the Motorola SB 6 series modems. I've tested 3 different ones. All great modems.
I would presume that most LAN cables don't go bad unless there is some bending of the wire or if the wire has been mfr'd badly in the first place which I have seen in some in box items. Cat 5 should be good for your use. I would recommend at some point if you start to get into more heavy networking, streaming and or gaming, that you go with Cat 6. Never hurts to upgrade and future proof as well. Ya I've done my share of running cables in walls and attics. ::) Upgrading to patch cables between devices is cheap now days. Sometimes you can find a good deal on a spool of Cat6 if you have to tools to put the plugs on. ;)
Keep us posted.
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It just doesn't make sense that its the modem because its been working beautifully for 2 years. Maybe its outdated??
So far its over an hour that its online so I'm hoping its the cable because that's the easiest fix.
Keep you posted.
thanks for the help BTW.
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SB 5 Series modems are basic cable modems, DOCSIS v2. Seen a few 5 series just go bad as well.
Keep us posted on cable swap. Hope that might be it. You should be able to view the cable modems web page and logs at 192.168.100.1 if you see this again.
Glad to be of help.
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Interesting. If I try to access the modem via 192.168.100.1, I get a network error.... hmm... yet I still have internet access now...
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If everything is still working by the two hour mark, I'm going to hook everything back up with the new cable in place and see what happens.
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Possible Shaw doesn't allow access to the modems web page.
Well if it's working, I would try some of the other suggestions, Set up reservations, turn off some of those features that are not needed. Adjust the SPI NAT settings and Wifi. I use those same settings and works well.
Hopefully it will keep working well for you.
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Yeah I've been running on those settings that you recommend since yesterday and it didn't seem to make a difference but I will continue to run them anyway.
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Hope you enjoy.
;)
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Everything is hooked back up and functioning normally for the time being. I'm going to be pissed off having wasted all this time for a simple cable issue,but what are you gonna do.
ill post back if problems arise or tomorrow for confirmation that its fixed.
cheers!
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Lets hope thats all it was.
Enjoy and Good Day. :)
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You as well!
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So internet is down again. :'(
I'm guessing Shaws modem is the culprit then? >:(
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I would ask them for a newer model modem if they have one. Ask them if they support a Motorola SB 6120, 6121 or a 6141.
Ensure there are not t.v. line splitters between the ISP box out side or pole an the cabling going into the ISP Modem.
If you can, try your 655 router at a different location if you can, friend or families place. Might be easier to get a new modem though.
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Yeah, that is probably what will happen. I just don't feel like getting on the phone and trying to explain to them that I troubleshooted the hell out of my setup, and it's their modem. Oh well, life.
I use Bell ExpressVu for TV, so the splitter deal isn't an issue. At least, it would have been a while ago.
Testing it somewhere else is not really an option for me unfortunately.
Thanks for all the help nonetheless.
Will keep posted.
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UPDATE:
So it turns out the hardware in my D-link was toast, and that was what was causing the issues. I would assume it's because it wasn't designed to handle the load I was putting on it maybe???
Anyway, I'm running off of my Netgear as a primary for the time being, going to pick something new up this weekend. Any suggestions for something that can handle the massive bandwidth/sending signal to the 8-port monster/dual band 2.4ghz-5ghz reliably??? I would like to stick with Dlink, but other suggestions are welcome. Please no Linksys.
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Hmm..interesting. Maybe you should stick with whats working and go from there. See how that works for you. There isn't a dual band router with 8 ports yet. :o
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I would stick with this setup but my Netgear only runs at 100mbps whereas the Dlink was running at 1000mbps. I have constant connectivity now, but pages are a lot slower etc. Also I lose my wifi ability in my basement now that I'm limping around here.
I was talking about the 8-port Dlink wired that I already have. I will definitely be getting a new router, I just wanted to know which ones were beefy enough to handle sending a signal to that 8-port router as well as being dual band.
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Any of the DIR 8 series are dual band and Gb supporting.
If you ever get a chance too, I would recommend testing out the 655 at a different location.
Good luck.
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Awesome, I'll check those out.
I'll try it out if I get a chance, but it's unlikely in my situation, and now that my netgear has been working uninterrupted for over 24 hours, I'm inclined to believe the diagnosis. It's actually funny, my netgear is producing better WiFi range than the 655 despite being 802.11b only! but its far too slow either way.
What do you do with your trashed routers? Could I get money for it for parts on CL or something? Or is that unheard of?
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The older router probably doesn't have the "Good Nieghbor Policy" as newer routers do so thats probably being a beast and was set for for maximum power for the time it was developed.
IF the older router is working for you however, you could turn OFF the wireless radio on it and connect a DAP 1360, 1522, 1525 or 1533 to it and that would be your wireless.
You could also do this to your 655: Turning a router into an AP. (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=40856.0)
Where abouts are you located?
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I see. I always wondered why this one was so damn powerful.
I'm better off just getting a new router as this one only puts out a paltry 100mbps anyway. Thanks for the suggestion, though.
I'm located in Vancouver, Canada.
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Let us know what you go with.
Good Luck.
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Sorry for keeping you hanging.
I just picked up a DIR-835 as per your recommendation, and so far so good. Will post here if I have any other issues.
Again thanks!
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See you over on the 825 forum. You can post there for any issues and information regarding the DIR-835.
Enjoy.