D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-825 => Topic started by: Gajible on December 29, 2012, 09:41:03 PM
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I've recently purchased a DIR-835 to replace my older Dlink. The older one worked fine for the age but I decided a new router was in need. The setup was a breeze, and I got the wireless working flawlessly quite quickly, which was nice. It was only when I went to YouTube later that I realized how brutally slow my Wired Lan connection on my PC had become. Too slow to even run Internet speed test, or Shaw speed test. It load s images half way at best and doesn't connect at all sometimes. Any ideas as to why?
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
What region are you located?
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.
Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm)
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Disable SPI under Advanced/Firewall.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules.
WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
Set Time and Time Zone under Tools/Time.
Link>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0)
What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Try single mode G or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Try turning off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.
Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
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Any status on this? ???
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Hi,
Same exact problem. Horrible speeds through the dlink.
I have my destop pc plugged into a bridged SMC router from shaw, a brand new dlink DIR835 (I suspected my old DIR615 had packed it in). If I plug my computer(s) into the smc router/modem I get great speed tests. As soon as I plug my dlink into the system I get very poor performance on the internet. Nothing will download as it just times out. I have updated all of the firmware this morning as well i went through your suggestions but it is still poor. I can get onto the internet but it is terrible. I changed the cables between the router and modem as well. Any thoughts?
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
What region are you located?
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Has a Factory Reset been performed?
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/).
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Hi,
Same exact problem. Horrible speeds through the dlink.
I have my destop pc plugged into a bridged SMC router from shaw, a brand new dlink DIR835 (I suspected my old DIR615 had packed it in). If I plug my computer(s) into the smc router/modem I get great speed tests. As soon as I plug my dlink into the system I get very poor performance on the internet. Nothing will download as it just times out. I have updated all of the firmware this morning as well i went through your suggestions but it is still poor. I can get onto the internet but it is terrible. I changed the cables between the router and modem as well. Any thoughts?
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Sorry, It was the same router as mentioned above, here is the info.
I have an SMC D3GN-SHW Rev 1C Modem/Router supplied by Shaw Cable. The Router portion has been bridged to turn the wifi off.
I have a dlink DIR-835 (Brand New) Ver A1. My old Router was a DIR-615 and was working fine and then everything started slowing down.
My old router began dropping the wireless signal but my main PC also slowed to a grinding halt on the internet. If I did a speed test I was getting 2-3 upload speeds when I usually get 50+. I unhooked my DIR615 and plugged the PC into the back of the Modem and it seemed to work fine 2-3 speed tests were good so i am suspect i may have provider issue??? I spent an hour on the phone with shaw yesterday and surprisingly everything worked fine with their modem, almost 2 weeks to get a service call. I played with the settings that you mentioned above and here is where i am at. The wireless portion of the router seems to be working now. If I plug my PC into the dlink DIR835 I am unable to send emails and the internet will not work. I definitely think i have a service issue with my provider but there is also something going on between the router/modem/pc.
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My wireless just dropped with my new router. Came down to the Main PC and its working fine (speed test was 48.89 download). I have searched to see what neighbours wireless channels are and set mine to a static channel to not interfere with theirs. Is maybe having the smc and dlink next to each other the problem?
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And now its back up. Frustrating.
FYI router firmware was updated from 1.02 to 1.04 when I took it out of the box.
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If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: If it has built in wirelss as well, it's recommended to shut off the wireless on the Modem.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
My wireless just dropped with my new router. Came down to the Main PC and its working fine (speed test was 48.89 download). I have searched to see what neighbours wireless channels are and set mine to a static channel to not interfere with theirs. Is maybe having the smc and dlink next to each other the problem?
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I am sorry to bring back such an old topic but I can seem to fix my issue. I have a 100mb connection with Shaw and with my DIR-835 it is extremely slow, takes about 5 minutes to bring up google.com. I removed the 835 and the connection is extermely fast. I then tested the connection with a Netgear R6200 and it is just as fast as directly connected. The slowdown only seem to be with the 835. I have made sure that the firmware was up to date and reset the settings to factory and still no change, even after following the steps below it is still as slow as I remember dial up being.
What Hardware version is your router? A1
What Firmware version is currently? 1.04
What region are you located? Canada
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router? Have tried both
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL? Shaw
What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router? Has a built in router but it has be put into bridge mode
What ISP Modem make and model do you have? Cisco DPC3825
Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel. Done
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual. Done
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Done
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting. I only have one device connected
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address. Done
Disable SPI under Advanced/Firewall. Done
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Cannot find this setting
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Done
WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? I have tried both Auto and GB speeds, even tried 100MB
Set Time and Time Zone under Tools/Time. Done
What wireless modes are you using? I have tried mixed with all 3 and also G only
Try single mode G or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz? Tried Single G
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only. Tried Both
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. Doesnt seem to make a difference
What security mode are you using? WPA-Personal
What wireless devices do you have connected? Just a Mac Mini
Any cordless house phones? None, just cell phones
Any other WiFi routers in the area? One other
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced. Done
Try turning off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Done
Enable WMM Enable Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless. Done
Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing. Dont have any
Here is a traceroute to google.com
Traceroute has started…
traceroute: Warning: www.google.com has multiple addresses; using 173.194.33.17
traceroute to www.google.com (173.194.33.17), 64 hops max, 72 byte packets
1 router.dlink.com (192.168.0.1) 3.515 ms 0.752 ms 0.692 ms
2 11.5.192.1 (11.5.192.1) 11.473 ms 18.940 ms 20.030 ms
3 rd1cs-tge1-3-1.ok.shawcable.net (64.59.168.201) 20.403 ms 21.610 ms 24.774 ms
4 66.163.76.26 (66.163.76.26) 32.924 ms 58.405 ms 40.314 ms
5 rc3ar-tge0-6-0-10.ed.shawcable.net (66.163.76.138) 40.091 ms 39.196 ms 40.010 ms
6 72.14.216.66 (72.14.216.66) 40.137 ms 38.968 ms *
7 209.85.249.32 (209.85.249.32) 40.165 ms 38.815 ms 30.501 ms
8 209.85.253.24 (209.85.253.24) 42.611 ms 38.513 ms 41.027 ms
9 sea09s01-in-f17.1e100.net (173.194.33.17) 39.848 ms 36.634 ms 32.346 ms
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
Example of a D-Link router configured for PPPoE with ISP Modem bridged: PPPoE Configuration on Router (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56344.msg219023#msg219023) - Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
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FurryNutz,
Thanks for the quick response. The modem is bridged and the MTU for Shaw is 1500.
Any other ideas?
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Do you get same speeds when directly connected to the ISP modem?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
6" minimum safe distance between devices.
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
- Turn off all devices accept for one wired LAN PC while testing.
- Disable any downloading client software managers, i.e. Torrents or similar.
I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.
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A factory reset was done after the firmware update. For the most part the router was working fine, had to power cycle once every 2 weeks but other than that speeds were fine.
Speeds are perfect when direct connecting to the modem or hooking up my friends Netgear R6200.
The router is about 5 feet away from the computer and the computer is the only device setup right now.
The lines were replaced when I made the upgrade to 100mb and there are no splitters, I use bell satellite for tv so they are on a different cabling system. The signal from shaw is not the issue, everything works fine when I remove the dlink from the equation. And being on a Mac I do not have any antivirus software and since I am normally behind a router I don't bother with any firewall software.
Right now the computer is hardwired but there was no difference in speed between being wired or wireless.
Anything else to try before I use the extended warranty I purchased at Future Shop?
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Is the IPv6 settings set for local or automatic? Set for Local and retest. I know there was an issue a while back with these routers on some ISPs in Canada that if left on IPv6 Auto, it was messing things up. Setting to Local Only fixed it.
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Or try 100Mb. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
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I woke up this morning and did another reset and it seems to have gotten its act together and started working better. Still not getting the same speeds that I get when I direct connect or use the Netgear R6200 but now I am able to get speedtest restults in the mid 30mb/sec whereas yesterday I couldnt even load shaws speed test.
Thanks for all of your suggestions.
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I would presume there could be an issue between the 835 and the ISP modem. Those modems with built in routers, even though there seems to be a bridge, could be possible that there is something going on. I had my 835 online about 2 weeks ago for test. Speeds were expected for my ISP and the 835 is on same FW version. However my ISP Modem is a stand alone modem, no bridge or router built in. You might want to ask Shaw if you can use or if they have a modem only option.
I would test the 835 at your friends place to see if the problem follows. Unless he has same ISP modem? Still worth a test.
Keep us posted on how it works for you.
Good Luck.
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Any status on this?
I woke up this morning and did another reset and it seems to have gotten its act together and started working better. Still not getting the same speeds that I get when I direct connect or use the Netgear R6200 but now I am able to get speedtest restults in the mid 30mb/sec whereas yesterday I couldnt even load shaws speed test.
Thanks for all of your suggestions.