D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-636L => Topic started by: niniendowarrior on June 07, 2013, 07:59:19 PM
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Hello,
I just bought the DIR-636L to replace my old dead DIR-655 and after setting up wifi and security, I noticed that on my Vista box, it would connect and then at random lose the internet connection only to restore it after a few moments. I use two Ubuntu machines as well but I have not noticed this issue so I am asking for help here (I was reading into firmware upgrades before I decided to ask for some insight).
DLink router details:
Hardware Version: A1 Firmware Version: 1.01
My Vista is on an Acer Aspire 5920G.
My Ubuntu computer uses a Linksys USB Wifi device to connect, which seems to work OK.
I have an Ubuntu laptop which connects just fine.
I initially had issues with configuration when the DNS wouldn't resolve, but it seemingly "went away" on my Ubuntu machines and my Android phones. My Vista laptop connected right away but experienced these issues of which I have not experienced with my old DIR-655 router.
My wifi is configured invisible and uses WPA. It also has a MAC address filter list and has my 2 Ubuntu boxes under the reserved IP list.
If anyone please help me diagnose this. I'd be very happy. I am happy and willing to provide more info if needed.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- What region are you located?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
- Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service) or Gamefuel.
- Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
- Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
- Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0)
- Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
- Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
- If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only or Disable IPv6 options under Setup/IPv6.
- Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
- Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
- Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
- Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48695.0) feature. Tools/Time.
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- Any cordless house phones?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
- Try turning off Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
- Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
- Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.
Ensure the Vista Wireless adapter drivers are up to date.
Does the Vista PC work if you make the WiFi visible for testing temporarily?
If your other devices are working and the Vista PC isn't, there could be a configuration issue with this device and not the router. You might temporarily disable WiFi security while testing to see if the Vista PC works with it off.
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Hi,
I'm in the Asia region. I will check the router configuration for your tips to see if performance improves. I do use a DSL connection but we mostly leave router settings as dhcp.
I use a wpa personal security and use channel 11. I run a mixed b,g,n AP as my Ubuntu connects at 54Mbps (which I presume is g). I believe my Vista connects at n.
We do not have any cordless phones. We do have mobile phones in the area. There are also a few wifi routers in the area that I know of and are visible.
I am currently running a test with my Vista laptop with no settings change, but it has not tripped up yet.
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IF you don't have any devices that use or need B mode, then switch to Mixed G and N modes.
Keep us posted.
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I have implemented most of the tips with a few exceptions.
I skipped DNS relay for now since I don't have a DNS IP address yet to use.
I didn't find the endpoint independent option in the firewall settings.
I didn't find WISH but WPS is disabled.
I disabled b protocol.
I've run inssiders and found that there are 6 APs and my router is emitting 2. 1 is blank and open and the other contains my wifi security.
The nearest router to me runs on the same wifi signal channel 11. Within the vicinity, the poorest signal uses 1 and another uses 6.
So right now, there's 2 overlapping networks.
I'm running another test.
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Try switching to channel 1 if 11 seems to exhibit problems with disconnections.
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I have switched to channel 1 after another failed test. It seems to be reacting much quicker on my Android tablet. I sincerely hope that my wifi will be sorted with this change.
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The problem persists. I will attempt to use g only. When I had my DIR-655, all my devices were using g. I wonder if there's an issue with my Vista wifi when using n.
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Try testing vista with WPA2/AES only and see. Then test WPA2 and TPIK only.
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I had run a test using g and it seemed stable for a long while before briefly acting up once again.
I have altered my wifi to use WPA2/AES as you have suggested.
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You maybe encountering WiFi congestion in your area on 2.4Ghz.
Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0)
If you are, you may want to switch to 5Ghz WiFi.
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You maybe encountering WiFi congestion in your area on 2.4Ghz.
Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0)
If you are, you may want to switch to 5Ghz WiFi.
How do I switch to 5GHz? I don't see a setting to change the wifi band.
Also changing the transmission to low or medium has made one of my Ubuntu machines unable to ping the router even though it is connected to it. Sigh... I seem to have made things all the more worse. ???
EDIT:
I managed to get it working again by directly wiring the problematic Ubuntu laptop to the router. When I disconnected the lan and attempted to connect my wifi, I checked and my laptop once more appeared on the list of clients. It seems to be working again. I did set the transmission back to High though... although the laptop is just like around 5 feet away...
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Unfortuntately this router does not support 5Ghz. You'll either need to add 5Ghz wireless by connecting a D-Link DAP model wireless AP to the 636L and upgrading all PCs to 5Ghz for those that can be upgraded and are needed on WiFi connections or get a D-Link model 8 series router that supports both 2.4 and 5Ghz radios. Some devices like cell phones can't be upgraded to 5Ghz.
Reivew this for DAP information:
Bridge Mode vs Relay vs Acess Point (AP) / Routers vs Dedicated Access Points (AP) (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0)
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I guess I'll have to just be happy with what I got. This router seems like a totally big step backwards from my excellent DIR-655. :'(
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I really don't think it's a router issue, more like your environment. Having many other WiFi routers near by on 2.4Ghz will cause any router to not work well. It was possible that your older 655 router didn't have the "good neighbor policy" as newer generation routers now have and there maybe some near by you that don't. Thus all the congestion and interferences on the 2.4Ghz radio near you.
Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
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I really don't think it's a router issue, more like your environment. Having many other WiFi routers near by on 2.4Ghz will cause any router to not work well. It was possible that your older 655 router didn't have the "good neighbor policy" as newer generation routers now have and there maybe some near by you that don't. Thus all the congestion and interferences on the 2.4Ghz radio near you.
Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
From what I can tell, I have 2 neighboring WRT54G routers that are like a couple of feet away. I'm tired of fighting with it, so I suppose I'll just see how it goes.
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Those are probably interfering. I would check out some 5Ghz upgrade paths.
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Those are probably interfering. I would check out some 5Ghz upgrade paths.
Thanks for the insight. I will ponder on whether or not to go that route. I'm wondering if changing the channel to 6 may help.
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You can set to channel 6 and test to see if it help. Again, if others are using Channel 6, could be problems. Test it out and see. Can always change it back.
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Hi... I'm back!
I've been able to move on with my router for the most part. I changed the channel to 6 and I changed the wifi security to WPA only/TKIP which seems to work the best. I have a few questions that have been bothering me.
1. When I run inSSIDer, I see that my router is emitting 2 APs. 1 with my Wifi security and SSID and another that is blank. I am a bit concerned this is causing some wifi conflicts but I wanted to get expert opinion on it.
2. At one time, I was downloading heavily on my Ubuntu box and suddenly my connection deteriorated. I have other connected devices and they don't exhibit the problem which initially lead me to believe that my Ubuntu box is acting up. At that time, my Wifi was in channel 1 and I switched it to 6 but the settings DID NOT TAKE INTO EFFECT even though when I check the configuration, it clearly says 6. I also tried the tools > system > reboot and nothing seemed to happen. I pulled the plug on the router and let it start up again after 30 seconds. Suddenly, my Ubuntu box connects just fine as do all my other devices. Any explanation?
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Hi... I'm back!
I've been able to move on with my router for the most part. I changed the channel to 6 and I changed the wifi security to WPA only/TKIP which seems to work the best. I have a few questions that have been bothering me.
1. When I run inSSIDer, I see that my router is emitting 2 APs. 1 with my Wifi security and SSID and another that is blank. I am a bit concerned this is causing some wifi conflicts but I wanted to get expert opinion on it.
Can you post a picture of InSSIDer when this happens?
2. At one time, I was downloading heavily on my Ubuntu box and suddenly my connection deteriorated. I have other connected devices and they don't exhibit the problem which initially lead me to believe that my Ubuntu box is acting up. At that time, my Wifi was in channel 1 and I switched it to 6 but the settings DID NOT TAKE INTO EFFECT even though when I check the configuration, it clearly says 6. I also tried the tools > system > reboot and nothing seemed to happen. I pulled the plug on the router and let it start up again after 30 seconds. Suddenly, my Ubuntu box connects just fine as do all my other devices. Any explanation?
What browser are you using when you mange the router? Does this happen on a different PC?
What FW version is currently loaded?
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Hi... I'm back!
I've been able to move on with my router for the most part. I changed the channel to 6 and I changed the wifi security to WPA only/TKIP which seems to work the best. I have a few questions that have been bothering me.
1. When I run inSSIDer, I see that my router is emitting 2 APs. 1 with my Wifi security and SSID and another that is blank. I am a bit concerned this is causing some wifi conflicts but I wanted to get expert opinion on it.
Can you post a picture of InSSIDer when this happens?
I will as soon as I get to InSSIDer.
2. At one time, I was downloading heavily on my Ubuntu box and suddenly my connection deteriorated. I have other connected devices and they don't exhibit the problem which initially lead me to believe that my Ubuntu box is acting up. At that time, my Wifi was in channel 1 and I switched it to 6 but the settings DID NOT TAKE INTO EFFECT even though when I check the configuration, it clearly says 6. I also tried the tools > system > reboot and nothing seemed to happen. I pulled the plug on the router and let it start up again after 30 seconds. Suddenly, my Ubuntu box connects just fine as do all my other devices. Any explanation?
What browser are you using when you mange the router? Does this happen on a different PC?
Firefox
What FW version is currently loaded?
I'll check... seems like I can't get to my router IP for some weird reason. Be back with this.
EDIT:
This is super odd. The login of the router is taking an eternity to load up, but my internet on it is fine. I'll try to reboot my poor router.
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FW: 1.01
That was really odd for the router to do. I'll PM the screenshot to you, FurryNutz. :)
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Ya thats interesting. It is the same MAC address too.
Where exactly in the Asia region are you?
Is v1.01 the latest and greatest for your region? I think v1.04 is available.
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Ya thats interesting. It is the same MAC address too.
Where exactly in the Asia region are you?
Is v1.01 the latest and greatest for your region? I think v1.04 is available.
Philippines. I wasn't sure exactly how and where to get the firmware. Last time I tried it on my old Linksys router, it killed my router so I have a bit of a phobia with firmwares.
Oh... and I tried to change my router settings on 3 different computers.
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I recommend trying to upgrade FW from here when you select the Router tab and select the arrow to the right until the 636L appears.
https://sg.mydlink.com/support# (https://sg.mydlink.com/support#)
Download v1.04 to you PC, unpack the zip file and use IE or FF to apply the update.
Please follow this to update the FW:
FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
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I recommend trying to upgrade FW from here when you select the Router tab and select the arrow to the right until the 636L appears.
https://sg.mydlink.com/support# (https://sg.mydlink.com/support#)
Download v1.04 to you PC, unpack the zip file and use IE or FF to apply the update.
Please follow this to update the FW:
FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
Just trying to be thorough here so please forgive my inane questions.
Is the FW this one? http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53650.0
It says "NA" which I presume is North America??
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No, you need to get your FW from this site:
https://sg.mydlink.com/support# (https://sg.mydlink.com/support#)
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No, you need to get your FW from this site:
https://sg.mydlink.com/support# (https://sg.mydlink.com/support#)
Thanks! I thought when ou said upgrade FW from "here" you meant this forum. I'm downloading the firmware now.
This is the file I downloaded. DIR636LA1_FW104B06.zip I will find a block of time to perform the firmware update. Lord I hope this works.
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Hope so too, keep us posted.
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Any status on this? ???
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I haven't gotten around to doing this. I feel terribly ill during the week. I may try this weekend.
I notice that when my Android devices connect to my router, it seems to connect twice (once on that blank wifi and another to my real wifi signal). Very odd behaviour.
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Hope you feel better. Just checking on ya.
Ok, keep us posted.
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Hope you feel better. Just checking on ya.
Ok, keep us posted.
I've updated successfully to FW1.04 and it seems like the router is plenty more crash happy. When I go through the wizard setup, the router will crash and I will lose access to the router IP. If I setup my dlink account, the router will also crash. As long as the router is running though, this is just a minor blip.
I've managed to setup my router password and wifi security, mac address list so the router is back to my current configuration (I didn't save my old configuration. I manually recreated it).
I've also used inSSIDer after the FW update and it still shows 2 wifi APs like the screenshot I sent you showed. Looks like it's a feature that I don't know of.
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Does this router crash happen with everything connected and can you test with a different PC if you have one available? I'm wondering why this router is crashing...shouldn't be...I presume you mean that is rebooting on it's own?
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Does this router crash happen with everything connected and can you test with a different PC if you have one available? I'm wondering why this router is crashing...shouldn't be...I presume you mean that is rebooting on it's own?
When I mean crash in this case, my internet is intact and the lights of the router are on, but when I go to my router IP, I get page cannot be displayed. The computer I used was the only one connected.
EDIT:
Now that I have some time, I can explain in more detail.
Scenario 1:
When after installing the FW, I reset my router to factory default as recommended by the guide. The dlink router would go to the setup wizard where it asks my router password as well as the wifi AP security. I did not change the wifi security because I intend to go through the manual configuration. When I go through the wizard, there is a point when the router says it is checking my internet connectivity. The globe icon here will lose the green light and it will turn orange and be blinking forever. When I visit 192.168.0.1 here, I get the page cannot be displayed. I have to manually pull the plug on the router to restore my router. To get around configuration, I skipped the wizard and went straight to the configuration pages.
Scenario 2:
After skipping the configuration, I go to my dlink account page. As expected, it doesn't have any account configured to it. I try to enter my account credentials and then the page goes frozen. My router lights are both green but when I go to 192.168.0.1 from a different tab, I get page cannot be displayed. I tried pinging external sites and I am still getting a response so I did not lose internet connectivity. Again, I have to pull the plug on the router to restore my router.
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Sounds like this could be a PC, ISP modem and router issue here.
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Try the following, disconnect the cable from the ISP modem and use the one pc to gain access to the router and can you configure the router with out it being connected to the ISP modem?
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
What browser are you using?
Try Opera or FF? If IE 8 or 9, set compatibility mode and test again. Happen with any of these browsers?
Try turning off these features in Chrome:
Top right corner, little bars for options > Settings > Settings (on left) > Show advanced settings.
Uncheck these:
Use a web service to help resolve navigation errors
Use a prediction service to help complete searches and URLs typed in the address bar
Predict network actions to improve page load performance
Enable phishing and malware protection
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Sounds like this could be a PC, ISP modem and router issue here.
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
I have a Zyxel P-660R-D1 modem. Hasn't caused issues in the past and on the original FW of the router.
Try the following, disconnect the cable from the ISP modem and use the one pc to gain access to the router and can you configure the router with out it being connected to the ISP modem?
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
What browser are you using?
Try Opera or FF? If IE 8 or 9, set compatibility mode and test again. Happen with any of these browsers?
Try turning off these features in Chrome:
Top right corner, little bars for options > Settings > Settings (on left) > Show advanced settings.
Uncheck these:
Use a web service to help resolve navigation errors
Use a prediction service to help complete searches and URLs typed in the address bar
Predict network actions to improve page load performance
Enable phishing and malware protection
I used Firefox while doing the configuration. The router configuration issues aren't too big of a deal as I don't care one way or another about them. What troubles me though is that the wifi hot spot is still emitting 2 APs just like in screenshot I gave you.
I also have a USB drive plugged on the router and when I tried to copy a 500 MB zip file on the drive, my router rebooted. I was able to copy a bigger file though (approx. 800 MB) before the 500 MB file copy though, so I guess it's a fluke.
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Does this ISP modem have a built in router?
- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
If your SSID hidden by chance:
http://www.metageek.net/forums/showthread.php?3686-Hidden-SSIDs-with-inSSIDer-2-(take-2) (http://www.metageek.net/forums/showthread.php?3686-Hidden-SSIDs-with-inSSIDer-2-(take-2))
So you say that the 636L was working on the shipping FW until you updated it?
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Does this ISP modem have a built in router?
- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
If your SSID hidden by chance:
http://www.metageek.net/forums/showthread.php?3686-Hidden-SSIDs-with-inSSIDer-2-(take-2) (http://www.metageek.net/forums/showthread.php?3686-Hidden-SSIDs-with-inSSIDer-2-(take-2))
So you say that the 636L was working on the shipping FW until you updated it?
I am fairly sure that the ISP modem does not have a built-in router. These days the ISP gives out modem/routers for free but my subscription was well before that time. One of the last ones without a router built-in.
The 636L operated relatively OK prior to the firmware upgrade with respect to the scenarios I outlined after the firmware upgrade. I did not however attempt to copy large files on the external hard drive in my router before the upgrade though so I cannot speculate how well it performed prior to upgrade to 1.04. I only did that because I was backing up my windows vista laptop files. I have set to factory default on the old FW 1.01 many times without it performing the strange lock ups so I'm thinking the upgrade to 1.04 broke something.
Still, it isn't much of a big deal since I don't use the mydlink account anyway.
Yes, my SSID is hidden. I suppose that's the reason for the blank SSID?
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Try un-hidding it and see what happens?
Did you factory reset, update FW then factory reset once again after you updated the router?
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Try un-hidding it and see what happens?
Did you factory reset, update FW then factory reset once again after you updated the router?
I will try unhiding the SSID this weekend.
Yes I did perform the factory reset, update FW and then another factory reset. Incidentally, the factory reset after the FW update is when I started to bump into the wizard setup issues.
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I have changed the settings and the blank SSID is indeed gone! I've wondered if this was causing the bad performance so now I will find out for sure!
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Keep is posted.
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A few observations.
1. I noticed that on the old firmware, after running the router for prolonged periods, I am unable to log into the router. I have to turn it off and back on to log in. This is solved with the Firmware update.
2. Unhiding the SSID seems to give me more range. My devices seemed less confused with the availability of my wifi hot spot. I think I like the setup I have right now and Dlink also managed to fix up my old DIR-655 router. So at least I have a backup if all else fails.
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Good, hope it works well for you now. If the router is set up for your needs, do a save configuration to file so you have these settings for later use in case you have to do a factor reset.
Enjoy.
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Thank you very much for your assistance. Could not have done this without your help, good sir.
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Come back and visit if you need anything else. Glad to be of help. ;)