D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DGL-5500 => Topic started by: FurryNutz on August 02, 2013, 08:10:01 AM
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Anyone wanna share theres?
Example:
Heres mine as of July, 7 2010, on at the time DGL-4500. My how things have changed. :o
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/895103515.png) (http://www.speedtest.net)
ISP: Cable 10Mb/1Mb package
Modem: Linksys Cable modem at this time.
FW: 1.15
Gamefuel and DNS relay enabled.
Manual Uplink Speed: 2048
Update 05-17-2011: Updated a short list of common internet speed testing sites that are available located in the Resources Library:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?board=305.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?board=305.0)
My DGL-5500 is out for delivery today so I'll post my newer results later on. ;D
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2876812283.png)
MODEM: Motorola SB6120
ROUTER: DGL-5500
ISP: Cable 20Mb Package (20Mbps down / 2Mbps up)
FW: 1.01
ENABLE AUTO BANDWIDTH ENABLED (default setting)
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Okay here is mine, wish my upload speeds were faster. Come on Google fiber!!!! ;D
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2877063117.png)
ISP: TWC 14mb/s/1mb/s
Modem: Scientific Atlanta 2100
DGL-5500
FW1.01
Auto band enabled
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2877306044.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/2877306044)
Here's mine. After a couple of reboots my speeds seem to have improved quite a bit. Still not as fast as the 4500 but alot closer to what it should be.
All Default settings
ISP: Fios
Modemn: Fios ONT
DGL-5500 on FW 1.01
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2877306044.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/2877306044)
Here's mine. After a couple of reboots my speeds seem to have improved quite a bit. Still not as fast as the 4500 but alot closer to what it should be.
All Default settings
ISP: Fios
Modemn: Fios ONT
DGL-5500 on FW 1.01
HOLY SH*T!! I don't think I will ever see that kind of speed in my lifetime! JEALOUS!!!!
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HOLY SH*T!! I don't think I will ever see that kind of speed in my lifetime! JEALOUS!!!!
lol yea its nice! ;)
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Time of evening at 5:30Pm maybe effecting some performance so not quiet seeing 50Mb on the down.
Heres mine:
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2877532285.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/2877532285)
SB and ABE enabled.
Mac Book Pro on 5Ghz
Motorola SB 6120
FW v1.01
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2885980741.png)
MODEM: Actiontec C1000A
ROUTER: D-Link DGL-5500
ISP: CenturyLink (VDSL - Pure Broadband) 40Mb Package (40Mbps down / 5Mbps up)
FW: 1.01
**Enable StreamBoost Bandwidth Control - DISABLED / NOT CHECKED**
**Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation - DISABLED / NOT CHECKED**
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Well I did a speed test with SB ON and ABE OFF:
Saw 37Mb down and my 2Mb UP.
After enabling ABE: Seeing my 50MB/2Mb
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2889622915.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/2889622915)
Wonder if something has changed. ::)
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2898001248.png)
MODEM: Actiontec C1000A
ROUTER: D-Link DGL-5500
ISP: CenturyLink (VDSL - Pure Broadband) 40Mb Package (40Mbps down / 5Mbps up)
FW: 1.01
**Enable StreamBoost Bandwidth Control - ENABLED / CHECKED**
**Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation - DISABLED / NOT CHECKED**
Decided to post another speed test! I'm blaming the 5500 for the increased bandwidth (subscribe to 40Mbps down / 5Mbps up). :D
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(http://stage.results.speedtest.comcast.net/result/293736482.png)
Consistant 55/11 with SB on/off and ABE on/off. Very happy!
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2910115229.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/2910115229)
Slight better results.
Streamboost=ON
ABE=OFF
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Streamboost ON
ABE OFF
2 Rokus are active on the network during this test.
Modem is a SB 6141 with 2 up channels and 8 down channels bonded.
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2922187180.png)
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Here is my new speed test with the new FW 1.10 and ABE is ON!!!!
Speeds are faster!!!!! But my ping sucks, use to be around 15ms
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2948294296.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/2948294296)
So here are the results with ABE off and input manually input 100.00/10.00. Ping is much better:
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2950083800.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/2950083800)
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2983296888.png)
ISP: Time Warner 30Mb/5Mb package
Modem: Motorola SurfBoard SB6141
Speedboost enabled
Results are disappointing. Speeds were faster than ever on the first day of getting this router. They've been worse ever since. Netflix streaming is particularly bad.
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Is ABE enabled or disabled when you took this test?
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2983296888.png)
ISP: Time Warner 30Mb/5Mb package
Modem: Motorola SurfBoard SB6141
Speedboost enabled
Results are disappointing. Speeds were faster than ever on the first day of getting this router. They've been worse ever since. Netflix streaming is particularly bad.
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2990082550.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/2990082550)
ABE off
set down as 53.00
set up as 6.20
as you get a little bit of head room so you don't get kicked if you go above 50/6 which is what i pay for
just a tip for other people
so best results from recent update in firmware
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3044060380.png)
MODEM: Actiontec C1000A
ROUTER: D-Link DGL-5500
ISP: CenturyLink (VDSL - Pure Broadband) 40Mb Package (40Mbps down / 5Mbps up)
BETA FW: 1.10B10
**Enable StreamBoost Bandwidth Control - ENABLED / CHECKED**
**Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation - ENABLED / CHECKED**
*****NOTICEABLE INCREASE IN SPEED WITH BETA FIRMWARE (yellow highlight) AND CHANGED SETTINGS (yellow highlight) compared to previous speedtest results*****
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**UPDATE**
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3044189898.png)
MODEM: Actiontec C1000A
ROUTER: D-Link DGL-5500
ISP: CenturyLink (VDSL - Pure Broadband) 40Mb Package (40Mbps down / 5Mbps up)
BETA FW: 1.10B10
**Enable StreamBoost Bandwidth Control - ENABLED / CHECKED**
**Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation - ENABLED / CHECKED**
*****NOTICEABLE INCREASE IN SPEED WITH BETA FIRMWARE (yellow highlight) AND CHANGED SETTINGS (yellow highlight) compared to previous speedtest results - AND GETTING BETTER!!!!!!!*****
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:o WOW
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(http://www.speedtest.net/iphone/816962782.png)
And that's on wifi not wired
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Very nice...maybe included wired as well for comparison?
(http://www.speedtest.net/iphone/816962782.png)
And that's on wifi not wired
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2877306044.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/2877306044)
Here's mine. After a couple of reboots my speeds seem to have improved quite a bit. Still not as fast as the 4500 but alot closer to what it should be.
All Default settings
ISP: Fios
Modemn: Fios ONT
DGL-5500 on FW 1.01
You Fios customers are lucky bastards!
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Post your results sir. ::)
You Fios customers are lucky bastards!
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Finally getting my money's worth on internet I share with family members a few houses down with my brand new ASUS RT-N65U router
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3455464101.png)
Way better results than with the D-Link DGL-5500
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3290546343.png)
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3290540619.png)
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3290534900.png)
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Is this still using that bridge? ???
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Yes, same bridge. Only thing changed was the router.
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I presume this is a compatibility issue between the 5500 and this one bridge. I ran with a DIR-865L and a DAP-1533 and speeds are good for me.
Yes, same bridge. Only thing changed was the router.
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So I've been messing around the past few days with this new firmware update and this is what I've noticed so far.
This picture was taken after installing the firmware and giving the router 12 hours to detect my speeds.
(http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp108/Jaclark45/20140628_111050.jpg) (http://s402.photobucket.com/user/Jaclark45/media/20140628_111050.jpg.html)
And this photo is what I tested at on the Comcast speed testing site.
(http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp108/Jaclark45/20140628_111352.jpg) (http://s402.photobucket.com/user/Jaclark45/media/20140628_111352.jpg.html)
After that I went and turned off the Auto Bandwidth Estimation and just entered in speeds around what I should be getting, I'm paying for 105/10 and took these two photos. As you can see my speeds greatly improved. I noticed that if I were to enter in 105/10 for my download and upload speed that my speeds would improve a little bit but still not at what I should be seeing. I found that at 130/20 was the sweet spot at what I was able to get the real speeds that I'm paying for.
(http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp108/Jaclark45/20140628_112906.jpg) (http://s402.photobucket.com/user/Jaclark45/media/20140628_112906.jpg.html)
(http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp108/Jaclark45/20140628_112817-1.jpg) (http://s402.photobucket.com/user/Jaclark45/media/20140628_112817-1.jpg.html)
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Did you follow the FW update process? ???
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Did you follow the FW update process? ???
I followed your instructions to the letter. I've been debating on trying another factory reset and see if the problem repeats itself, and give it a few days to level out. My feeling is that what ever server the router is using to determine my speed from here in PA is what's giving the inaccurate numbers to set my download/upload speeds.
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Ya I noticed that my router was using test servers hundreds of miles away, nothing with in my city. However my router did finally set my ISP speeds. I remember D-Link meantioning that any ISP speeds over 100Mb should be detected correctly last year. Give it a few more days or try a factory reset and follow the process again. Keep us posted. If it still fails to gain full ISP speeds, I'll have D-Link review this.
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3969963714.png)
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What FW version is currently loaded?
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3969963714.png)
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What FW version is currently loaded?
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3969963714.png)
FW: 1.13
Enable Streamboost Bandwidth Control: ENABLED
Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation: DISABLED / BOX NOT CHECKED
-Download Speed: 60
-Upload Speed: 6
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What are the results with SB and ABE enabled?
What FW version is currently loaded?
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3969963714.png)
FW: 1.13
Enable Streamboost Bandwidth Control: ENABLED
Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation: DISABLED / BOX NOT CHECKED
-Download Speed: 60
-Upload Speed: 6
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What are the results with SB and ABE enabled?
What FW version is currently loaded?
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/3969963714.png)
FW: 1.13
Enable Streamboost Bandwidth Control: ENABLED
Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation: DISABLED / BOX NOT CHECKED
-Download Speed: 60
-Upload Speed: 6
SB is already enabled. Let me enable ABE and I will post my results. Stay tuned.......
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I've noticed a lot of people on the forums complaining that their speedtest results don't show the full potential of their connection unless they overstate it in the streamboost setup. I.E. someone with a 40/2 connection won't see 40/2 in a speed test unless they put 50/3 or something higher into SB.
If you're putting anything other than your actual* speedtest results into SB you may as well not even bother switching it on. (*actual = direct result obtained without streamboost or anything else affecting the result so you know its the real world maximum speed your connection is capable of)
The main goal of any QoS setup, including SB, is to prevent your internet connection from hitting 100% bandwidth (saturation) in either direction. When SB is on it will deliberately prevent any single device on your network from being able to utilise 100% of the downstream connection; when you have a 40/2 connection and see something like 32/1.4 with SB on, that means SB is working and you're going to get the results you want when a bunch of devices are all trying to be greedy with the internet at the same time.
Specifically with gaming, lag spikes are due to your connection momentarily hitting saturation in either direction. There is very little bandwidth needed for gaming, but if the internet connection ever hits 100% then the packets are gonna get queued up either trying to get in or out of your network and bam you have lag until that queue is cleared.
Your router can completely control every packet that goes out to the internet - they go from your device, to the router, then the internet.
Your router can only at best indirectly influence the packets that come in from the internet - they are often coming in as a response to a request from a device on your network, so the best the router can do is slow/stop the requests so that no more responses come back.
QoS creates a buffer in the downstream so that the internet connection doesn't saturate in between the time the router realises that it needs to slow/stop upstream requests, does the necessary upstream throttling/re-prioritisation and the effects of that are felt in the downstream. 15-30% is the recommended size of this buffer for both direction in other QoS systems I've worked with. SB seems to have a good engine which reserves a lower amount in the upstream, probably because it can analyse the traffic, knows what needs to go out to the internet right now and what can wait, and has the ability to directly control those packets.
If you have a 40/2 connection, dialled in at around 40/2 as per your speedtest results and you're seeing anything up to about 30% loss of speed with SB on then that's totally normal - that's just how QoS works. Even though SB is a proprietary QoS implementation, it will work like every other QoS system at its core; the automatic identification and categorisation of traffic is what makes SB better than other QoS systems, particularly the ones where you have to manually define priorities for traffic on different ports, etc. I found it very hard to consistently trap torrent/p2p traffic on a manual QoS system but SB is spot on at putting almost everything in the right class.
If you set your SB to above the proper values so you see a full speed speedtest while its on, you're actually getting no protection from saturation of your connection, which is what causes lag and all the other annoying things you probably bought this router to avoid. I think there needs to be a sticky about QoS
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Spot on, good post.
I would like to add that, the router should, when doing the AEB or using the "Test bandwidth" button, come up with your proper speed as it should max out the connection. I sense that there are issues with that at the moment judging on what others have posted. But you are correct, speeds will most likely be slower when testing from a device when streamboost is active.
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I'd like to add that while using v1.13 and with SB and ABE enabled with out inputing any manual values. ABE, at least for me was spot on to 50/3 here. There maybe ISP service issues, speed site testing issues, cabling or online devices that could cause ABE not to fully complete or detect full ISP speeds. For me the Test button fails to work however just enabling SB and ABE and saving settings and let it go, I came back later on and found speed results were at 49/3. I believe that users should allow the router to fully test and settle in by updating FW at the most opportune time, like late at night right before bed time and no other traffic is needed to allow SB and ABE to fully test with out interferences to gain the best testing and results.
I was told that there maybe some overhead room that SB reserves for his operations. So there maybe some decrease in what is displayed. Doesn't mean your loosing anything.
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I'd like to add that while using v1.13 and with SB and ABE enabled with out inputing any manual values. ABE, at least for me was spot on to 50/3 here. There maybe ISP service issues, speed site testing issues, cabling or online devices that could cause ABE not to fully complete or detect full ISP speeds. For me the Test button fails to work however just enabling SB and ABE and saving settings and let it go, I came back later on and found speed results were at 49/3. I believe that users should allow the router to fully test and settle in by updating FW at the most opportune time, like late at night right before bed time and no other traffic is needed to allow SB and ABE to fully test with out interferences to gain the best testing and results.
I was told that there maybe some overhead room that SB reserves for his operations. So there maybe some decrease in what is displayed. Doesn't mean your loosing anything.
Reporting back my results while using v1.13 with SB and ABE enabled, and my results are spot on as well (actually a bit better than what I'm subscribed to at 50 down / 2 up). The TEST button fails for me as well.
Active Download Speed : 52.40 Mbps
Active Upload Speed : 2.34 Mbps
For now, SB and ABE will stay ENABLED / CHECKED.
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Glad it working for you. ;)
I'd like to add that while using v1.13 and with SB and ABE enabled with out inputing any manual values. ABE, at least for me was spot on to 50/3 here. There maybe ISP service issues, speed site testing issues, cabling or online devices that could cause ABE not to fully complete or detect full ISP speeds. For me the Test button fails to work however just enabling SB and ABE and saving settings and let it go, I came back later on and found speed results were at 49/3. I believe that users should allow the router to fully test and settle in by updating FW at the most opportune time, like late at night right before bed time and no other traffic is needed to allow SB and ABE to fully test with out interferences to gain the best testing and results.
I was told that there maybe some overhead room that SB reserves for his operations. So there maybe some decrease in what is displayed. Doesn't mean your loosing anything.
Reporting back my results while using v1.13 with SB and ABE enabled, and my results are spot on as well (actually a bit better than what I'm subscribed to at 50 down / 2 up). The TEST button fails for me as well.
Active Download Speed : 50.31 Mbps
Active Upload Speed : 2.34 Mbps
For now, SB and ABE will stay ENABLED / CHECKED.
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I've noticed a lot of people on the forums complaining that their speedtest results don't show the full potential of their connection unless they overstate it in the streamboost setup. I.E. someone with a 40/2 connection won't see 40/2 in a speed test unless they put 50/3 or something higher into SB.
If you're putting anything other than your actual* speedtest results into SB you may as well not even bother switching it on. (*actual = direct result obtained without streamboost or anything else affecting the result so you know its the real world maximum speed your connection is capable of)
The main goal of any QoS setup, including SB, is to prevent your internet connection from hitting 100% bandwidth (saturation) in either direction. When SB is on it will deliberately prevent any single device on your network from being able to utilise 100% of the downstream connection; when you have a 40/2 connection and see something like 32/1.4 with SB on, that means SB is working and you're going to get the results you want when a bunch of devices are all trying to be greedy with the internet at the same time.
Specifically with gaming, lag spikes are due to your connection momentarily hitting saturation in either direction. There is very little bandwidth needed for gaming, but if the internet connection ever hits 100% then the packets are gonna get queued up either trying to get in or out of your network and bam you have lag until that queue is cleared.
Your router can completely control every packet that goes out to the internet - they go from your device, to the router, then the internet.
Your router can only at best indirectly influence the packets that come in from the internet - they are often coming in as a response to a request from a device on your network, so the best the router can do is slow/stop the requests so that no more responses come back.
QoS creates a buffer in the downstream so that the internet connection doesn't saturate in between the time the router realises that it needs to slow/stop upstream requests, does the necessary upstream throttling/re-prioritisation and the effects of that are felt in the downstream. 15-30% is the recommended size of this buffer for both direction in other QoS systems I've worked with. SB seems to have a good engine which reserves a lower amount in the upstream, probably because it can analyse the traffic, knows what needs to go out to the internet right now and what can wait, and has the ability to directly control those packets.
If you have a 40/2 connection, dialled in at around 40/2 as per your speedtest results and you're seeing anything up to about 30% loss of speed with SB on then that's totally normal - that's just how QoS works. Even though SB is a proprietary QoS implementation, it will work like every other QoS system at its core; the automatic identification and categorisation of traffic is what makes SB better than other QoS systems, particularly the ones where you have to manually define priorities for traffic on different ports, etc. I found it very hard to consistently trap torrent/p2p traffic on a manual QoS system but SB is spot on at putting almost everything in the right class.
If you set your SB to above the proper values so you see a full speed speedtest while its on, you're actually getting no protection from saturation of your connection, which is what causes lag and all the other annoying things you probably bought this router to avoid. I think there needs to be a sticky about QoS
Great info! After reading this, it appears SB is working like it should be on my 5500. When running a speed test, I'm getting 45 down / 1.95 up (subscribed speed is 50 down / 2 up). Thanks for sharing :)
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(http://www.speedtest.net/result/4150831632.png)
FW: 1.13B03
MODEM: Motorola SB6180
ROUTER: DGL-5500
ISP: Cable 100Mb Package (100Mbps down / 5Mbps up)
**Enable StreamBoost Bandwidth Control - ENABLED / CHECKED**
**Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation - DISABLED / NOT CHECKED**
I had issues with speeds not being reported correctly (100 down / 5 up) when ABE was enabled. I plan to disable the wireless radios on the 5500 and 868L (AP), reset the 5500, and let ABE do its thing overnight. I'll post the findings sometime tomorrow. Hopefully ABE can get the correct speeds. I didn't have an issue with previous subscribed speeds (50 down / 2 up) prior to the upgraded speed subscription.
Stay tuned!
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I've noticed a lot of people on the forums complaining that their speedtest results don't show the full potential of their connection unless they overstate it in the streamboost setup. I.E. someone with a 40/2 connection won't see 40/2 in a speed test unless they put 50/3 or something higher into SB.
If you're putting anything other than your actual* speedtest results into SB you may as well not even bother switching it on. (*actual = direct result obtained without streamboost or anything else affecting the result so you know its the real world maximum speed your connection is capable of)
The main goal of any QoS setup, including SB, is to prevent your internet connection from hitting 100% bandwidth (saturation) in either direction. When SB is on it will deliberately prevent any single device on your network from being able to utilise 100% of the downstream connection; when you have a 40/2 connection and see something like 32/1.4 with SB on, that means SB is working and you're going to get the results you want when a bunch of devices are all trying to be greedy with the internet at the same time.
Specifically with gaming, lag spikes are due to your connection momentarily hitting saturation in either direction. There is very little bandwidth needed for gaming, but if the internet connection ever hits 100% then the packets are gonna get queued up either trying to get in or out of your network and bam you have lag until that queue is cleared.
Your router can completely control every packet that goes out to the internet - they go from your device, to the router, then the internet.
Your router can only at best indirectly influence the packets that come in from the internet - they are often coming in as a response to a request from a device on your network, so the best the router can do is slow/stop the requests so that no more responses come back.
QoS creates a buffer in the downstream so that the internet connection doesn't saturate in between the time the router realises that it needs to slow/stop upstream requests, does the necessary upstream throttling/re-prioritisation and the effects of that are felt in the downstream. 15-30% is the recommended size of this buffer for both direction in other QoS systems I've worked with. SB seems to have a good engine which reserves a lower amount in the upstream, probably because it can analyse the traffic, knows what needs to go out to the internet right now and what can wait, and has the ability to directly control those packets.
If you have a 40/2 connection, dialled in at around 40/2 as per your speedtest results and you're seeing anything up to about 30% loss of speed with SB on then that's totally normal - that's just how QoS works. Even though SB is a proprietary QoS implementation, it will work like every other QoS system at its core; the automatic identification and categorisation of traffic is what makes SB better than other QoS systems, particularly the ones where you have to manually define priorities for traffic on different ports, etc. I found it very hard to consistently trap torrent/p2p traffic on a manual QoS system but SB is spot on at putting almost everything in the right class.
If you set your SB to above the proper values so you see a full speed speedtest while its on, you're actually getting no protection from saturation of your connection, which is what causes lag and all the other annoying things you probably bought this router to avoid. I think there needs to be a sticky about QoS
Thanks for the information. Completely makes sense!
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Please post your speed results...
Thanks for the information. Completely makes sense!
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Here are my results. I just got the DGL-5500 a couple of weeks ago off Amazon. I am running the latest firmware 1.13.b04.
Does anyone know if the channel width can be set manually instead of AUTO 20/40? I can set 20Mhz but I want to force only 40Mhz band on the 2.4Ghz Band. I have tried disabling the Coexist HT 20/40 Band but my speeds drop drastically on the 2.4Ghz Band when that feature is disabled.
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/4354326238.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4354326238)
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
>FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have? Link> Speed Testing Sites (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48352.0)
- By-pass the main host router and check internet connection by connecting a wired LAN PC directly to the ISP modem to verify connection access and ISP speeds.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
Forcing 40Mhz is not supported on newer generation D-Linkrouters due to the Good Neighbour Policy. (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html) to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Disabling HT 20/40Mhz Co-existence is recommended when using single mode N only.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials)
What Mfr and model device are you testing with wirelessly?
Its not really recommended to speed test via WiFi due to many variables that can cause inaccurate results....Mfr wireless device design and support will be a factor. We don't recommend speed testing over WiFi as a default test due to issues like this and many other factors and variables that lead to inaccurate results. Testing over wired LAN cables for default speed tests is preferred.
Here are my results. I just got the DGL-5500 a couple of weeks ago off Amazon. I am running the latest firmware 1.13.b04.
Does anyone know if the channel width can be set manually instead of AUTO 20/40? I can set 20Mhz but I want to force only 40Mhz band on the 2.4Ghz Band. I have tried disabling the Coexist HT 20/40 Band but my speeds drop drastically on the 2.4Ghz Band when that feature is disabled.
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/4354326238.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4354326238)
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ISP is Charter and I am paying for the 30Mb Down and 4Mb Up service but I think Charter has moved everyone over to the new Spectrum 100Mb Down Service for free.
Everything for now seems to work great I was just bummed out when my old Cisco E2500 could force 40Mhz band and I got better performance on 2.4Ghz Band then I do with my new D-Link.
On my 5Ghz AC Band I get 112Mb Down over iPhone 6.
I have thought about doing a hard reset - reflash - hard reset - and setup from scratch again but it is a lot of port forwarding etc etc since I run plex server and have IP cams etc etc.
ISP Charter Cable
Modem SB6141
Dynamic WAN IP (PITA changes like every month)
Paid Service - 30Mb Down 4Mb Up
Service I Get - 110Mb to 120Mb Down 4Mb to 4.8Mb Up
SpeedBoost Set On
Auto Bandwidth Off
Set Numbers for SB 132 Down 4.80 Up
Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
>FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have? Link> Speed Testing Sites (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48352.0)
- By-pass the main host router and check internet connection by connecting a wired LAN PC directly to the ISP modem to verify connection access and ISP speeds.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
Forcing 40Mhz is not supported on newer generation D-Linkrouters due to the Good Neighbour Policy. (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html) to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Disabling HT 20/40Mhz Co-existence is recommended when using single mode N only.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials)
What Mfr and model device are you testing with wirelessly?
Its not really recommended to speed test via WiFi due to many variables that can cause inaccurate results....Mfr wireless device design and support will be a factor. We don't recommend speed testing over WiFi as a default test due to issues like this and many other factors and variables that lead to inaccurate results. Testing over wired LAN cables for default speed tests is preferred.
Here are my results. I just got the DGL-5500 a couple of weeks ago off Amazon. I am running the latest firmware 1.13.b04.
Does anyone know if the channel width can be set manually instead of AUTO 20/40? I can set 20Mhz but I want to force only 40Mhz band on the 2.4Ghz Band. I have tried disabling the Coexist HT 20/40 Band but my speeds drop drastically on the 2.4Ghz Band when that feature is disabled.
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/4354326238.png) (http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4354326238)
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Must be nice. ::)
Ya, you'll be fine. They took out 40Mhz only a while back. The DGL-4500 and a couple of the older DIR series routers were the last to have it. It's all automatic now.
Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
Enjoy the router. ;)
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New 'BETA' OOKLA SpeedTest web site. Give it a try. Enjoy :)
http://beta.speedtest.net/result/4782443203 (http://beta.speedtest.net/result/4782443203)
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Kewl. :)