D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: volatilevortex on August 12, 2013, 08:25:06 PM
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I've recently been trying to figure out what is causing my DIR-655 to reboot/disconnect every so often. I notice it while in games, mostly Dota 2, as a disconnect can pretty much cost you the game.
It used to disconnect me for 15 minutes or more every so often at random intervals. I changed a few settings on the wireless side, now it lags in game for ~30 seconds and doesn't DC from the game. During that 30 seconds I cannot use any form of internet and the blue orb shows up on the network icon. I think I've found the area of the router that's having the problem but I have no idea where to go from there.
Settings I've changed:
Check uplink speed - unchecked
Changed from B G & N mode on Wireless to just G & N
Changed the wireless channel to a channel no router around my neighborhood is using (checked with inSSIDer on a laptop)
Channel Width is on 20MHz
Changed Cipher to AES only from TKIP/AES
WPA mode to WPA2 only
Hardware Version on bottom of the router says A3 but the router page says A4 at the top.
Firmware has been updated to 1.37NA
I'm located in Central Illinois, ISP is Comcast.
I'm directly wired to the router.
(http://www.speedtest.net/result/2897232381.png)
I'm hoping to find a way to fix this. If you need any other information, just let me know.
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Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates?
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
- Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service) or Gamefuel.
- Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
- Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
- Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0)
- Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
- Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
- Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
- Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking.
- Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
- Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48695.0) feature. Tools/Time.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channel) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Any cordless house phones?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, HT 20/40 Co-exhistance and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
- Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
- Try setting Medium or Low power output settings and test again Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
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A factory reset was not performed before and after. The problem is the reason I tried updating the firmware so I experienced problems prior to any changes being made. Should I try a factory reset, firmware reflash, and then another factory reset before anything else?
ISP modem is ARRIS TM702G/CT.
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Yes...I'll look up the specs on your modem.
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It seems to be running fine, randomly. I haven't changed my internet activity and the connection up time is at over 3 days. If I have any problems I'm gonna jump to factory reset + reflash but it seems pretty stable right now.
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- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
Arris Cable Modems and External Routers (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50682.0)
If you see this issue again, I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.
Keep us posted.
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Any status on this? ???