D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DGL-4300 => Topic started by: bonkas on September 29, 2013, 02:34:53 PM
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I have a wierd problem with my 4300. I have a basic setup, mostly all setting at defaults apart from turning wireless off and setting a static WAN port IP address.
This was all working fine untill I lost connection to it, no ping and dhcp failing to finction from the router also.
After alot of trial and error and resets later I can confirm this happens once the WAN port is physically connected, it will test the speed of my connection.. try to refresh the page and display "Please try again" and thats it.. no connection.
I only noticed this a day after upgrading the firmware to 1.8 from 1.7. Could this be the culprit - Can I safely flash version 1.7?
I hope you guys can give me some insight here - I know this is an old router but I pulled it out of the box recently to get internet access where I am temporarily living.
I ran a search on the forums and found this post in the "legacy" section of the forum: http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=55903.0
I apologize if I have posted this in the wrong place.
Thanks,
Jeremy
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- What region are you located?
- Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Has the ISP service changed from PPPoE to DHCP by chance?
Can you MAC Clone the router to the PC that your working with?
If you disconnect the router from the ISP modem, can you access the routers web page with the PC still?
Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
- Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service) or Gamefuel.
- Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
- Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
- Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0)
- Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
- Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
- If IPv6 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ipv6) is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only or Disable IPv6 options under Setup/IPv6.
- Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SPI) to test.
- Enable uPnP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upnp) and Multi-cast Streaming (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multicast) under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
- Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
- Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48695.0) feature. Tools/Time.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
- Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
6" minimum safe distance between devices.
Web Browser Configurations
What browser are you using?
Try Opera or FF? If IE 8 or 9, set compatibility mode and test again.
Try turning off these features in Chrome:
Top right corner, little bars for options > Settings > Settings (on left) > Show advanced settings.
Uncheck these:
Use a web service to help resolve navigation errors
Use a prediction service to help complete searches and URLs typed in the address bar
Predict network actions to improve page load performance
Enable phishing and malware protection
Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
There is a v1.9 that was the last known. I don't know about going back to a prior version. DGL series were kind of sketchy on regressing FW. It's possible.
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Thanks for that info Furry, I have done all suggested from other threads - Nothing has helped so far.
I have opened up the unit for a quick visual inspection - No bad caps, no visual dry solder joints.
I updated to version 1.9 of the firmware and I had "some" success. All was working for around 10 mins but could not access the router at all.. wierd. After the 10 minutes it all went dark (no connection).
After it all went dead I removed the WAN cable and rebooted. All was fine, reset to factory defaults, connected wan cable - Instant disconnection - Cannot ping, access the config page. Nothing.
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Only other thing to try is to test it out on a different ISP modem if possible, friend or families place or check the power out put of the power adapter and see if there could be a bad voltage there.
If you leave the router going and not connected to the ISP Modem, can you still gain access to the routers web page after 10-15 mins? ???
Seems like this could possibly be a HW issue. You could try going back to v1.7 if you can keep the router going.
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Yes without connecting the WAN port the router will stay on for days without issue.
I feared it may be a hardware issue.
I have gone back to 1.7 where I started and after connecting the WAN port the routers enters a constant reboot state.
Updating to 1.8 I have the issue if the router going dark as soon as cable connected.
Updating to 1.9 I was able to access the web for 10 mins or so but nothing after that.
I do love this router it's a shame to have it fail like this.
Do D-Link still make the Gamer Lounge series?
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Is there any WAN port options setting on the 4300?
How about a WAN port speed setting?
You swap out cables and such? Does testing it on a different Modem have any other results or same?
They do, the 4500 which is not phased out and the new DGL-5500. If you can find a used 4500 online like fleabay or amazon for cheap, get one.
The 5500 is good. There still working on a few things on it. Over all a good router. Has a different gaming/QOS engine though an UI.
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?board=398.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?board=398.0)
What region are you located? ???
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Im located in New Zealand so these things can be hard to come by and/or expensive.
Yes the power adaptor is putting out correct voltage (5V, have not tested amps yet) - This was replaced in the not so distant past.
There was WAN settings for Bridge or Router Mode and Speed of 10 or 100mbps - I had this set to router mode and Auto for speed - After upgrading to 1.8 these options have dissapeared.
I have tried swapping out cables to no effect.
Given my temporary living arrangement at the moment I cannot change the modem.
Im sure I tried plugging the WAN port to the 2nd NIC in my PC to see the results but cant remember the outcome, will check again.
There is a refurbished one on Ebay I have been looking at but a later model would be the best option if I have to go that way. Another thing I need to be aware of is that when I move into another house I may buy and All-In-One box for broadband access or go to Fiber - Do these Boxes support Fibre connections? So I dont want to sink a huge amount of money.
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If the 4300 has 5V, then the 4500's 12V 2A wont work on the 4300.
I would try and see if there are any 3rd party power adapter resellers out there. I know here in the U.S. there is one place call offiebeyond.com. Has changed since I started using them and not sure if they sell to out side of the U.S. Most any generic power adapter that matches the same specs as on the D-Link and has the same plug and polarity on the plug is the same, should work if you looking in to the power adapter.
If your not doing any gaming or have specific needs, maybe an all in one model/router would be a better solution. You could even install a D-Link DAP AP for better dual band wireless support.
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Hiya Furry,
I already have a Dlink DAP and work very well indeed :) This is what I am using to get a internet connection to where my computer is, unfortunately DHCP is not being passed through the DAP in bridge mode which it should be, have confirmed it's the modem at fault here but I cant change this, So i have been using the DGL-4300 between me and the Bridge for DHCP (Some of my gear required DHCP to be functionable)
I love the available options and easy config of these routers so I have already pulled the trigger on one (DGL-4500 as per your suggestion) :)
I have already found a power adaptor that fits the voltage, amps and pinout of the DLink 12V 2A adaptor, when it gets here I will need to confirm the plug size.
Most of my time spent on my PC is gaming, I also have xbox, 3DS, that sorta stuff and also a few servers that I run also.
Regards,
Jeremy
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ok man...keep us posted on the 4500. It's a great router for sure... ;D I still love mine..
Don't use the power adapter on the 4300 though. :-\
What model is the DAP? I've seen similar issues with my DAP-1533...
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It may very well be a 1533... I have connected two different modems and they are passing DHCP without issue, but the house owners modem will not. Not a big issue as I am only here temporarily.
I just wanted to make sure of the power supply before I bought it incase I could not find one locally here. But I pulled the trigger anyway haha.
I never used to be a fan of Dlink to be honest. now I own the DGL-4300, DAP-1533 and a DNS-320 and loving every one.
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Keep us posted on how it goes....If you got the 4500, you'll love it too.
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I literally have the EXACT same problem. It just started about two days ago and I just now found this thread.
Router seems to work fine (both wired and wireless) until WAN is connected to modem, then can no longer access router setup page/Internet. Was running 1.8, now on 1.9. No change. Modem works fine if directly connected to single computer. Sometimes I can get web pages to load for about 10 min, but during the 10 min, cannot access router setup page. And it will always completely lose connection after that. It almost feels like a firewall problem or something. DMZ seems to increase the chance of it working for 10 min. I am out of ideas.
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http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=55903.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=55903.0)
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Heya Furry and others watching this thread.
The link in the post above has fully resolved my problem!
I hope this works for the others with similair issues.
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Enjoy. ;)