D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DGL-5500 => Topic started by: Avitus77 on January 06, 2014, 01:37:28 PM
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I have owned the DGL-5500 Router since Launch. I have had multiple problems with this router since I first installed it. I currently have the latest firmware 1.11B03. I upgrade from 1.10. (This seems the better firmware) - reset to factory settings, flashed new firmware, and restored setting manually. Now I have connectivity drops constantly. I have the 2.4 GHz and the 5.0 GHz set up as separate networks in hopes to help with some of my issues. I also have the Enable Streamboost Bandwidth Control ON and Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation unchecked with 100/10 set as the values.
Scenario One:
I keep 3 of my devices (iPad, iPod, and Laptop) on the 2.4 GHz network and my Laptop only on the 5.0 GHz network.
The iPod is Skyping along with the Laptop playing Minecraft. And the iPad streaming Video of past TV shows. My laptop (on 5.0 GHz) trying to play an MMO. The iPad streaming video is constantly buffering and stopping and the Laptop is always losing connection to the MMO. The Skype and the Minecraft seems fine on the kid’s computer other than a few complaints I hear of some Lag.
Scenario Two:
Same iPod and laptop (Skyping and Minecraft) and then Ethernet connected AppleTV Streaming Music from an iPhone (5.0 GHz). The Music is constant skipping / lagging and no effect to the Laptop or iPod.
Please let me know if this seems normal and my household is trying to use too much bandwidth or if there seems to be a problem with the router? (Either hardware or settings).
When I had the 1.10 Firmware it did not seem to have this many connection issues, I am thinking of downgrading the router to see if this resolves these issues.
Also, with the 1.11B03 upgrade, the router never remembers my password set and I always have to log in with no password even after I just set it.
Are there any articles or links to optimal set up for this router? Any Help that can be offer would be greatly appreciated.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- What region are you located?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
Did you follow this for doing FW updates or downgrading:
FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
- Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service) or Gamefuel.
- Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
- Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
- Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0)
- Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.
- Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
- Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SPI) to test.
- Enable uPnP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upnp) and Multi-cast Streaming (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multicast) under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules.
- Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
- Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48695.0) feature. Tools/Time.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or Mixed N and AC on 5Ghz?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channel) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- Any cordless house phones?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, HT 20/40 Co-exhistance and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
6" minimum safe distance between devices.
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
- Turn off all devices accept for one wired LAN PC while testing.
- Disable any downloading client software managers, i.e. Torrents or similar.
Web Browser Configurations
What browser are you using?
Try Opera or FF? If IE 8, 9, 10 or 11, set compatibility mode and test again.
Disable any security browser Add-ons like No Script and Ad-Block or configure them to allow All Pages when connected to the router.
Clear all browser caches.
Try turning off these features in Chrome:
Top right corner, little bars for options > Settings > Settings (on left) > Show advanced settings.
Uncheck these:
Use a web service to help resolve navigation errors
Use a prediction service to help complete searches and URLs typed in the address bar
Predict network actions to improve page load performance
Enable phishing and malware protection
Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
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Please let me know if this seems normal and my household is trying to use too much bandwidth or if there seems to be a problem with the router? (Either hardware or settings).
That is not normal. At 100Mbps you should have plenty to spare.
I got this router because my Airport Extreme was horrible at letting my girlfriend stream movies/tv on the AppleTV or SmartTV upstairs while my son and I were playing online with the PS3's (somebody was going to have buffering/lag). After putting this router in those issues went away. I also have less bandwidth (20Mbps / 5Mbps) than you (100Mbps / 10 Mbps).
When I had the 1.10 Firmware it did not seem to have this many connection issues, I am thinking of downgrading the router to see if this resolves these issues.
I had the same issues with 1.11. 1.10 was stable and 1.11 would disconnect devices several times a day.
I wonder if the disconnects are causing your buffering issues. It could have disconnected and hit the end of your buffer before the device reconnected.
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- For DGL-5500, review this for Streamboost information and settings: Furry's DGL-5500 Review (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=55136.0)
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Do you actually have a 100mbit internet connection? Setting the bandwidth too high will cause the router to give devices too much bandwidth thinking there's still room to spare for other devices. If you are unsure you can run a speed test at http://www.speedtest.net (http://www.speedtest.net) to find out.
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What do you have yours set for?
Do you actually have a 100mbit internet connection? Setting the bandwidth too high will cause the router to give devices too much bandwidth thinking there's still room to spare for other devices. If you are unsure you can run a speed test at http://www.speedtest.net (http://www.speedtest.net) to find out.
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I have it at auto because it's been 100% accurate for me with a 25mbit cable connection. I'm not home but it's something like 25.9/5.8
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Kewl, ya they improved SB and ABE greatly on the B11...there is a small fudge factor so sometime it might be off by a couple of megs...not much to be concerned about though.
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No, my speeds are supposed to be 50mb down and 10mb up. I just read some posts to disable ABE and set to 100/10. I will try turning back on ABE and see how that goes. In the past this has reduced my speed test results.
I am trying to go through all this information and configure this router the best way i can.
Thanks Much for all the help and I will keep posted on my progress.
Furry:
My Region in Michigan, USA
If I upgraded to 1.11B03NA, first restoring factory settings and then flashing 1.11B03, restore factory settings, then manually configure router settings. would there be any benefit to reflash again to 1.11B03 using the same steps and starting over before trying to optimally reconfigure my router?
Could this maybe be a bad flash of the firmware seeing as it won't hold/save my password and always default to blank?
Is there any plus side to downgrading to 1.10 vs 1.11B03 (current)?
- I did seem to have better performance with the 1.10 firmware.
Any news of a newer Beta or Final release anytime soon?
Thanks Again!
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Yes you could re-flash the FW. No problems if you want to do this again.
Please use IE or FF with add-ons disabled when you do this...
New FW is on the horizon...
Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure.
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Is there any plus side to downgrading to 1.10 vs 1.11B03 (current)?
- I did seem to have better performance with the 1.10 firmware.
I downgraded to 1.10 and I have been much happier. I was having all sorts of streaming video issues with 1.11. Any device that wasn't in the top 1 or 2 in the streamboost priorities would get very little bandwidth. Even when the top 2 devices were not using the bandwidth. With 1.10 I have no issues streaming multiple HD videos simultaneously.
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Is there any status on this?
Can you answer some of the questions presented in my reply?
How about upgrading to v1.11B03 and testing?
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Hows it running now? ???
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I Have read through your posts as well as B.Banner's optimal settings post and have made the recommended changes to settings. also, running 1.11B03.
I did this on Tuesday night. So far everything seems to be working good. The disabling of DNS Relay has seem to so far fix my issue with loss of connection or stuttering streaming to our AppleTV device that is Ethernet connected.
The real test will be this weekend when the Kids, Wife, and Myself are all battling for bandwidth.
I'll post during the weekend and let you guys know.
Thanks!
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Awesome, keep us posted. ;)
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Any status on this? ???
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The router seems to be holding up fairly well.
I still have stopping / stuttering problems on my Apple TV (2nd Gen), but I think it may be a problem with the device itself. The AppleTV loses connection on both Wired and wireless connections and only seams to have these issues when airplaying from other devices, not when playing direct from AppleTV.
I will keep things setup as they are and cross my fingers when the horizon comes and we see a new firmware update
Thanks
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What settings did you change?
Glad it's working better for you...