D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-825 => Topic started by: bigd7387 on January 10, 2014, 04:12:36 PM
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I have never had an issue with this before and I have spent 20 hours in the last few days doing everything. The DIR-825 B1 with the current North America firmware and it works fine, both 2.4/5ghz, no issues. The only problem is the only way I can access the router is to plug it into my computer and put in 198.162.0.1 with a Ethernet cable connection. I cannot access 198.162.0.1 via the wireless, I just get a message it cannot connect. I have the box checked allowing remote access under the admin page for D-Link. I even reset the router and went through all the settings. It's just a pain to have to hook up a cable to get access to my router. The only thing that has changed is I have AT&T U-verse Internet 24mb service and I have had it for 4 years but I just recently moved about a week ago and they changed out my old modem/router with a new unit for my new place. I like using a Ethernet cable from their modem/router to my D-Link and use it for my laptop, 2 games systems at 2.4ghz and my 3D Bluray player and I use the 5ghz for my cell phones.
Can anyone please help me with some ideas to try? I'm at a loss and I normally don't like to ask for help but I am completely stuck on this. The modem/router At&t gave me is a Pace America's 3801HGV. That is all the markings that are on the box they installed and since they have an extra port on the back I run my Ethernet cable from it to my D-Link.
Big thanks who can help me with this. Thank You
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
- What region are you located?
- Has a Factory Reset been performed?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
Example of a D-Link router configured for PPPoE with ISP Modem bridged: PPPoE Configuration on Router (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56344.msg219023#msg219023) - Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
- Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service) or Gamefuel. For the DGL-5500, review this for Streamboost information and settings: Furry's DGL-5500 Review (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=55136.0)
- Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
- Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
- Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0)
- Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.
- Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
- If IPv6 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ipv6) is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only or Disable IPv6 options under Setup/IPv6.
- Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SPI) to test.
- Enable uPnP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upnp) and Multi-cast Streaming (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multicast) under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
- Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
- Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48695.0) feature. Tools/Time.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channel) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Any cordless house phones?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, HT 20/40 Co-exhistance and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
- Turn off all devices accept for one wired LAN PC while testing.
- Disable any downloading client software managers, i.e. Torrents or similar.
Web Browser Configurations
What browser are you using?
Try Opera or FF? If IE 8, 9, 10 or 11, set compatibility mode and test again.
Disable any security browser Add-ons like No Script and Ad-Block or configure them to allow All Pages when connected to the router.
Clear all browser caches.
Try turning off these features in Chrome:
Top right corner, little bars for options > Settings > Settings (on left) > Show advanced settings.
Uncheck these:
Use a web service to help resolve navigation errors
Use a prediction service to help complete searches and URLs typed in the address bar
Predict network actions to improve page load performance
Enable phishing and malware protection
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I am using the D-Link 825 Hardware Version: B1 Firmware Version: 2.07NA. Like I mentioned in my earlier post nothing had changed other than At&t putting in a new router/modem and I like using my D-Link. I have used the same combination with At&t and my D-Link for 4 years without an issue. I even used at one time an older D-Link, I believe DIR-615, without issues. I just can't understand how I cannot access 192.168.0.1 via wireless? I have reset the D-Link and started over but I don't know? I will try some of your suggestions but if you can come up with something that may help me I would appreciate it.
Thank you
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Sees that this could a a wireless issue on your device. I've never seen this before. Usually it's a browser issue, or maybe a 3rd party security issue or something related to the device not connecting to the routers page. If wired and other devices are connecting to the router, the problem is locally on this one device.
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Yes that's what has me confused. I can pull up the router/modem setting from the config screen on my laptop for my AT&T combo unit via it's ip address but the only way I can access my D-Link 825 is by plugging a Ethernet cable directly into my computer. I can't seem to find any kind of conflict and the D-Link does provide wireless internet to my devices but I just can't connect to the 192.168.0.1. I like be able to access my router without having to come downstairs and plug a cable in, it's been a real pain. Is there a tech support person on this page or someone with D-Link that could give some advice as to this issue. It has to be something in a setting but I've both checked, unchecked, rebooted and reconfigured it. Of course At&t won't help because they don't want me using my router but I love my D-Link for my home network. In a perfect world I would love to be able to use it as an extender so that I can plug my internet tv and game systems directly to it upstairs but I am lost on that issue on how to do it. The most confusing process is that it has always worked with At&t until they changed out my 2wire box I had with this new router/modem/uverse tv combo box. I even have the ip address to access the At&t router box but I don't know what I would change to allow me to have their router still function but allow me to use my D-Link. I usually allow people that come here use my At&t router and keep the D-link for just my devices. Thanks again for your help and anything you may think of. Like I said, it works, I just can't access the D-Link via wireless.
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Ah, is your wireless device connecting wirelessly to the 2Wire modem? If so, this may be the issue.
- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ. You might have to use DMZ since most 2wire modems are not actually bridgeable.
Example of a D-Link router configured for PPPoE with ISP Modem bridged: PPPoE Configuration on Router (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56344.msg219023#msg219023)
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Thank you I will try that. I did have the 2wire previously from At&t but they have installed a new device made by Pace Americas, of which I have never heard of. But I will try all your suggestions. I just thought it was funny I can go into Windows 8 and use the run command and pull up the cmd line and I enter ipconfig and it gives me the info for the new Pace At&t router. It's default gateway address is 192.168.1.254. This problem has just really stumped me. 2wire was never an issue for me but this multi router/modem/u-verse box is a pain. I love my 24 mb speed, i'm averaging with everything running at about 21 mb download and 4 mb upload so I'm happy with the service but I just really want to use my D-Link so I have control over what's running in my house.
Again that you so much. I'm just OCD on this. I just am so hacked that a device they, At&t installed would eliminate by ability to access my 192.168.0.1 admin via wireless. Like I said I can plug in an Ethernet and do it but I do have some disabilities and steps are my nemesis so I really miss just doing everything locally from wherever in the house. Right now until I get this sorted out I am just running every device off of At&t router/modem but I'm not happy about it.
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Ya I think your ISP modem is the issue maybe.
If you connect your wireless device to the SSID radio on the 825, it should connect to the routers web page...