D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: ItsBacon! on August 27, 2014, 04:45:44 PM
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Just purchased a Dlink 655 REV C off amazon. Like an ***** I immediately updated the firmware so I don't have anything to compare this performance to. Occasionally, it will hang while loading webpages for a few moments..or fail to resolve the address at all. It's shown this behavior on numerous devices. All have between 85-100% signal strength. This doesn't last for long and for the most part it's pretty stable. My previous router in the same location did not do this. Downloads seem to remain unaffected. There are no neighboring networks and our cordless phones do not operate at 2.4ghz. I'm open to any suggestions on settings I can tweak? Perhaps I should just go back to 3.00? While installing, I did not realize at the time the 'B07' designated that it was a beta release. Oops.
Edit: I have not checked to see if these stability issues are present when hardwired. I will when I get home from work.
Secondly, my xbox slim (internal wifi adapter) is negotiating the wrong linkrate with this router. It's connecting at 11mbps. My old router-somewhat miraculously as I've read-negotiated 65mbps on N. I tried a friends (slim, but his is hardwired) and it also connects at 11mbps. If I switch the router to Wireless G, both connect at a proper 54mbps. This is not a solution as my connection is enough to saturate G. I did some research and this isn't unheard of. It seems to be an issue with various manufacturers. I saw ASUS released a patch that corrects this..but I'm guessing since this router is nearly EOL D-Link isn't going to do anything about it. One of my searches led me to this forum where another member was experiencing this issue with a different model. 857? Possibly? He wound up using his 655 which-lol-worked correctly. He may have had a different hardware revision. I'm guessing this _isnt_ an easy fix. I hate the idea of buying an external wireless adapter but..
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
- What region are you located?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channel) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
RE: xbox Slim:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50107.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50107.0)
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
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Region: Massachusetts
ISP: Comcast Cable
Modem: Comcast leased Arris TMT772
Dynamic IP
50 down 10 up
Cable is new CAT6. Will swap with spare.
Connected devices via wireless: Laptop, iPad, iPhone, HTC EVO, Galaxy S5, Kindle Fire.
Connected devices via ethernet: Desktop, Vonage VOIP.
Factory reset not performed before or after. Router retained my settings after F/W update. Will perform reset. SSID/Encryption have been changed. Utilizing WPA2/AES. Currently set to auto, co-existence disabled. Channel is set to auto, but there are no neighboring networks. This was verified with inssider. The closest house is about 300 feet away. In any event, I will try others.
Router is working normally at the moment. Connected my desktop via cat6 to verify this is strictly a wireless issue. Worth noting, download speed is stable. I'll factory reset it and update this thread after some continued run-time.
Xbox: Thank you. That was the thread that directed me here. Noted in your screenshot your DIR-655 was HW version B1. Does the C1 have a different chipset? The workaround is simply not use the on-board WiFi? I'm still amazed MS simply doesn't care. I don't even think it's the router manufacturers responsibility to fix this. In any case, I don't own anything that's capable of wireless bridging. External adapter it is!
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Try single mode N, WPA2/AES only, manual channel 11 and auto 20/40Mhz with HT 20/40Mhz disabled.
Yes use the FW update process is recommended for doing any FW updates.
Not sure of the HW, however I think it maybe the same however the only thing we can tell is that the QoS engine differs between Rev B and C and the LEDs are green vs blue.
Yes, disable the Wifi on the Slim and get you a DAP-1522, 1525, 1533 installed as a bridge on the Slim. You'll be fine then or run LAN wired which is preferred is most cases for any gaming. I'm currently testing a AC class bridge with my Slim. ::) This is what we did for a buddy of mine: Suggested N or AC WiFi Bridge Upgrade (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87wL7scXNdhbHFrVmZEZmZVYTg/edit?usp=sharing)
Anyways, the WiFi on the Slim isn't good on new generation routers. It does work ok on older generation router. Ya MS is responsible for the wifi drivers on them.
Refer to this for any XBL QoS settings that you need:
DIR-645 Gaming and QoS for XBL (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=44869.0)
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The 'lag' in resolving domains and or retrieving webpages has been resolved after performing a factory reset. I also tried different manually setting channels but it doesn't make a difference in terms of performance. 2 days & 12 hours uptime and no hiccups.
The issue with the slims' wonderful internal WiFi adapter was resolved by purchasing the stupid external WiFi adapter (I wonder if this is an incentive for MS not to look into the issue?)
In any event, I consider this solved. Thanks guys!
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Glad you got it all working. Do a save router configuration to file for future use.
Enjoy. ;)