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The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: Hapa808 on December 23, 2014, 06:32:18 AM

Title: My DIR-655 has been giving out.
Post by: Hapa808 on December 23, 2014, 06:32:18 AM

My DIR-655 has been giving out. I would come home and have to either log into the UI for the internet to resume, or to hard reset the router.

I had upgraded the router FW afterward and this issue still occurs. . .

Title: Re: My DIR-655 has been giving out.
Post by: FurryNutz on December 23, 2014, 09:12:46 AM

Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)

• What region are you located?
• Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
• Has a Factory Reset (http://blog.dlink.com/what-is-a-reset-button-when-should-i-use-it) been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)

• Was the router working before any firmware updates?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.

 

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html) to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials