D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: JOHIRSH on May 06, 2015, 02:12:37 PM
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I thought at first this was a ISP issue but i started running side by stand constant pings.... one to an outside IP and one to the router about once an hour or other time intervals the ping fails for both at the same time....can''t place that on the ISP
I have a hardware version b1 Firmware 2,10 NA the 2.11 firmware seemed to deal only with IPV6 issues
any thoughts?
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- Has a Factory Reset (http://blog.dlink.com/what-is-a-reset-button-when-should-i-use-it) been performed?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
>FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Wired or wireless connected to the router?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
- By-pass the main host router and check internet connection by connecting a wired LAN PC directly to the ISP modem to verify connection access and ISP speeds.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html) to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials)
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OK I had geiven up and didn't close this topic off
Iuse Cable with a Motorola Modem I am not there right now
I raised the issue with my ISP (which was extremely painful) there response was my modem was two years old and so its time to upgrade
With thiis issue combined with continued Virtual Servers issues and poor wifi range (the modem and router are quiet a bit apart) I have just decided to grin and gear as I research a replacement for both. This will be the second 655 that i have retired in frustration
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It would be helpful to know the ISP modem model if you can give feed back when you get home.
This could be an issue. Depending on model and signal quality of the ISP service and this model.
I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.
I use a Motorola SB 6121 with my DIR-655 Rev B using v2.11 Mod FW and it's been handling the entire house hold just fine.
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=55233.msg271069#msg271069 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=55233.msg271069#msg271069)
Sometimes routers may need a clean fresh reload of FW and set up from scratch as well. I would give this a try:
Link> >FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
One way to help figure if the router or and ISP issue. Turn OFF the WiFi radio on the 655 and see the problem continues.
Try direct connect with a PC to the ISP modem to see if the problem continues or not.
If the 655 seems to be ok on the wired side and maybe wireless is not as good however you still want the wired side of the 655 and keeping the UI features, you can always disable the wifi radio on the 655 and connect up a wireless AP connected via LAN cable to the back of the 655 as a alternative wireless upgrade. I've ran a couple of different AC class wireless devices with the 655 for testing. I have a DIR-868L, DIR-857 and a DIR-615 connected as APs currently. All works great.
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I used a Moroola 61120 Surboard Modem The System is cable with coax to the modem
Comcast says that maybe the modem is dying It is two years old
The run to the house is maybe five years old...
In the overall situation, this issue has pretty much faded into "minor"
I am more focused on dead zones and general through put and alsonow with problems with port forwarding
May be time to get new modem and look at better range routers I have the DIR-655 and a Apple Airport to cover a three bedroom rancher built late 60s..
thanks for all you input...
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I would start with a new ISP modem. Maybe a SB 6141 or 6180. I graduated to a 6180 last night. Rev B 655 working great on it.
The house I have was built in the early 70s and was 2200sq feet then we added on 3000sq foot addition a few years ago.
Possible maybe one of these could do you well in addition to the 655:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=59563.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=59563.0)
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Sounds like a plan.. I dont subscribe to Comcast "new every two years" but it has been a while
See how that goes... I am not wedded to the Airport as a secondary node but it was there
Let me go back to seeing if i can straighten out port forwarding for VNC (seperate target) and maybe do an upgrade next time I am there
thanks again for all your help
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Also start testing with out the Airport Extreme being online. Test the 655 by itself and once you can get stable ISP services and the wireless on the 655 is stable, then add the AE AP afterwards...Keep us posted.
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Won't be there for a couple of months
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Let us know when you can. ;)