D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: aikidos on June 06, 2015, 11:19:19 PM
-
I had a DGL-4500 for about 6 years. Several weeks ago it started losing connection like once a day. It then built up to several times a day. It loses connection to the internet and in 20-30 secs is reconnected. I tried several things to get to work but nothing helped. I just figured it had given me 6 good years and now was dead. I replaced it temporarily with a old linksys g router. It went about 4 days with no drops. I then purchased a DIR-655 because it had great reviews and I had so much success with my previous D-Link. Almost immediately the same thing started happening about once or twice a day. I then started reading these forums and trying out some of the suggestions but nothing seems to work. I am at my wits end about the whole thing. I have a lot of devices and computers that rely on having a good router and I have never had any problems in the past.
Comcast Cable 120mbps down 12 up
Modem : Arris TM822
Router : D-Link Dir-655 Hardware version A2 Firmware : 1.37NA
My main comp the connection is wired but all devices lose connection when router goes out wired and wireless
I have done a factory reset, replaced cables. I have not done anything to the firmware. I have changed channels.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
-
Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
Having two router exhibit similar issues maybe an indication of bad cabling or your environment and interferences on WiFi.
- What region are you located?
What FW version is loaded on the 4500?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
- By-pass the main host router and check internet connection by connecting a wired LAN PC directly to the ISP modem to verify connection access and ISP speeds.
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html) to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials)
-
Region North America , US , New England
4500 firmware 1.23NA
ISP speed 120mbps down 12 mbps up
I have swapped out the cable from the modem to the router with no effect
I would bring the ISP out to check the cabling but that would be a last resort. My speeds and bandwidth are excellent so I don't think it's that. Also if another router works I also don't think it is the ISP. I am borrowing a newer linksys right now to test if I have the same problem.
-
I wouldn't hesitate on calling your ISP. Mine has been able to view issues from their end to see that an issue existed and was somewhere down the road from me. The techs would locate that bad connection or device and I'd be golden again.
-
I would disable Traffic Shaping and QoS as well. You have nigher than 2Mb uplink speeds and the Rev A 655 and 4500 are capped at 2Mb.
Let us know about the Wifi questions and suggestions as well.
Region North America , US , New England
4500 firmware 1.23NA
ISP speed 120mbps down 12 mbps up
I have swapped out the cable from the modem to the router with no effect
I would bring the ISP out to check the cabling but that would be a last resort. My speeds and bandwidth are excellent so I don't think it's that. Also if another router works I also don't think it is the ISP. I am borrowing a newer linksys right now to test if I have the same problem.