D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-860L => Topic started by: Haggisdog on July 27, 2015, 07:47:36 PM
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Hello, I'm an owner of a DIR-860L Rev A based in the USA. The 860L has performed very well for me for the last year + but recently it has started to show some unusual behavior that I can't effectively troubleshoot.
Basically, some mobile devices are able to connect to the internet while most are not. As an example my Samsung Galaxy 5 connects to the WiFi network with a strong signal but cannot connect access the internet. My Chromecast attached to a TV about 20 feet away has no problem connecting and retrieving photos and weather information. The same is true for iPads, Kindles and other Samsung devices I have in the house. They can all connect to the network but only the Chromecast gets to the internet.
I have confirmed that I have the latest firmware, performed a Factory reset and set everything up from scratch.
I have changed the default SSID name on both the 2.4 and 5Ghz ranges.
I am using Mixed 802.11n and g on the 2.4Ghz range and ac and n on the 5Ghz range
Channel scan is set to auto.
Transmission is set to Best
Channel width is 20/40 (Auto)
I'm using WPA-Personal for Security. However, I also have guest accounts enabled for both ranges and neither of those connect to the internet either.
I have six other computers hard wired into the network and they all connect to the internet without a problem
All of my testing has been within several feet of the router and it has direct line of sight to my devices. There are no electrical devices near my router other than my NAS and ADSL modem (which have been there for over a year and a half).
I'm currently using the Google DNS servers for resolution (8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4)
I did change the router address to 192.168.1.1 because my Netgear DM11PSPv2ADSL modem uses 192.168.0.1
I'm at a total loss on what is causing this and I've run out of trouble shooting options. Everything has worked perfectly up until recently so Im not sure what caused this to suddenly change. Thanks for any suggestion or help
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Just as a quick status update... I reset everything to factory settings (DSL Modem and Dlink 860L) and re-configured both devices. AT&T also came out and checked the lines and confirmed that everything is working from their end.
The good news is that I am now able to get all devices to connect to the 860L, however, the WiFi connection frequently drops its internet connection but then after a few minutes it restores itself. During that time the WiFi connection to the LAN itself works and all of the hardwired LAN connections have internet access.
I wasn't sure if perhaps the MTU rate might be causing this but I suspect that would affect all internet connectivity not just WiFi connections.
I'm beginning to think that the device has somehow developed a fatal hardware corruption and I'll need to purchase a new one, however, if anyone has any suggestions on how to troubleshoot/resolve this I would appreciate the help.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
- What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
- Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
- What region are you located?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have? Link> Speed Testing Sites (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48352.0)
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
- For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
- If the ISP modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://computer.howstuffworks.com/nat.htm). Call the ISP and ask to see if the ISP modem can be bridged. To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ. Also check the routers DHCP IP address maybe conflicting with the ISP modems IP address of 192.168.0.1. Check to see if this is the same on the ISP modem, and if modem can't be bridged, change the DIR router to 192.168.1.1 or .0.254.
Example of a D-Link router configured for PPPoE with ISP Modem bridged: PPPoE Configuration on a Router (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56344.msg219023#msg219023)
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0) and Good Neighbour Policy (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=10634.0)
- Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_channels) to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard), so you might want to try TPIK (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temporal_Key_Integrity_Protocol) only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html) to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
- If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials)