1&2. I wish I knew the answer to this one. You can have your browser remember the ID and password to access the camera itself, but the video stream does require a separate authentication for some reason. If you have your browser remember the ID and password (assuming you are comfortable with that from a security point of view) then at least you will only need to enter the credentials once to see the video.
3. "PIR" is the passive infrared sensor. The camera offers two ways of detecting motion. One is the PIR sensor, which detects changes in the "heat signature" of the field of view and will trigger a motion event when there is a change in the heat map -- for example, if the camera is monitoring an empty room and a person walks in. The second way is video motion analysis, where the camera looks for changes in the video image itself. If a person walks into the image and disrupts the scene, this will trigger a motion event if the number of pixels changed exceeds the limits you set in the camera config.
All that said, which one you pick to use (or both) takes a lot of trial-and-error, in my experience. My cameras are all outside and I use the PIR sensor on one of them, which watches my back yard. There are lots of motion shadows from the trees there, making video motion detection pretty useless (constant false positives). PIR works great in that location. It works much less well for the cameras in my front yard, where there is a lot more sun and heat differences are harder to detect. And it is an imperfect technology anyway, so it is not going to be perfect wherever you use it. Best I can recommend is to experiment and see what works best.
4. For sensitivity, again you'll need to experiment. This will depend a lot on what your camera is watching. If it is monitoring an outdoor scene, where you can expect a lot of shadows and other things that will cause false positives, you probably will want a lower sensitivity and almost certainly a lower percentage. Indoors or for more static scenes, you can probably go with a higher sensitivity. The 30% you are using seems a bit low to me, but I don't know what your camera is pointed at. You could try a higher sensitivity and then adjust the percentage until you get the result you want. Regardless, tune both variables together to get the best result.
5. MP4 and H.264 are two different things. H.264 is a video format, and refers to the "codec" used to record the video. MP4 is a file format, or "container", used to store multimedia recordings. They are complementary things. The camera's H.264 video is stored in a .mp4 file. So there's no either/or for you to pick from. I would guess that your confusion is stemming from the fact that the camera offers you a choice of H.264 and MPEG4 as codecs. I would be surprised if your Android phone is demanding an MPEG4 recording because H.264 is a more modern and efficient choice, and is almost universally supported these days.