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[JFJ]

Is there a longer (10') cord available for the power plug?

Would like to make the install clean without adding an extension cord 

[JavaLawyer]

Please see the following post: http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=38494.0

[oberkc]

To Javalawyer's response...

I modified the stock power supply by cutting the cable and soldering in extra wire.  I added approximately 15 feet. 

When I did this, I noticed that viewing the camera over computer or cell phone became intermittent ("camera/feed not available"), even though a green LED indication suggesting a normally-operating camera.  On a hunch, I replaced the extension wire with heavier guage (probably from 22 to 18 guage) and suddenly the camera worked again.

This hunch came after swapping cameras (I have several -932L cameras) and power supplies, finding that any of my cameras connected to this modified power supply exhibited this behavior. 

[JavaLawyer]

JFJ -- oberkc's solution indicates that power attenuation becomes an issue with very long cords, i.e. a lower gauge (thicker) wire is required to maintain the voltage for the full 15'. A thick wire will have less electrical resistance and can therefore carry more current (i.e. less voltage drop) with distance. Since you only need 10', you may have better luck extending the original gauge cable a shorter distance.

[oberkc]

I agree with JavaLawer's conclusions.  One other explanation that I could think of is the possibility that I did not do a good job with the solder connection, introducing resistance at those points.  I must admit, however, to being a little surprised at how little margin there was with the wire. 

I am not sure, however, that I see any evidence that less than 10 feet would be fine if using original guage wiring (though it might be).  I think I would use a bit heavier guage, regardless of extension length (cost difference not significant) unless there was another factor driving the use of the lighter guage. 

[JavaLawyer]

Another member posted a new reply on the "Longer Power Cord 930L?" thread I referenced earlier:

I did some calculations wrt wire guage vs current and voltage drop.  If (and I did not measure the wire guage) the wire is 22 guage, then at 1.2 amps, the voltage drop would be about 0.2 V.  That amount of drop may or may not be significant.  Given the results of the above experiments, it likely is significant, especially in Night Mode, where the extra power is requred for the IR leds. 
Actually, I suppose I should measure the current draw and the voltage drop in Night Mode: has anyone done this? 

When I think about this problem, perhaps the best/easiest solution is to use a light guage 110 v extension cord to supply the dlink switching supply, and use the existing as supplied out of the box.  No soldering required.  Light guage two conductor extension cords are cheap.

Regards,
Bob

[pkweagle]

I use Dlink exclusively. Operate about 266 at any one time. Just suck it up and buy comparable wiring considering interior or outside use. Cut the existing wire in the middle and splice in the length desired. Use solder. Use solder. Your probably gonna want to solder the connections. Do not attempt to use alternate power supplies for cameras. If it says 1.2 output then use that and nothing else. The cameras are sensitive to the appropriate power supply. Electrical Engineers went to school for years for this stuff. Unless your one of them leave the power supplies alone. I have used these for years and if you screw with the power supply just prepare to replace a camera at about 65% of its normal life expectancy. Use the supplied Dlink power supply that comes with the camera. You can lengthen them safely at about a five plus ratio. For you math enthusiasts if the cord is 8 feet long OEM then a forty foot cord will likely work without problems. By the way the solid wire provides better performance than the wire with all the little hair like strands. Get at Lowes or Home Depot cheap.