Link>
Welcome!- Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
- Has a Factory Reset been performed?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
>FW Update Process- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
- Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet,
RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not
RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.
Power OFF the router and ISP modem. Power ON the ISP Modem first and let it sync then power ON the router.
Router and Wired ConfigurationsSome things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1.
Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Besure to log into the Admin account on the router.- Turn off TrueGigaBit Routing under Setup/Internet/Manual for those routers that have this feature for testing.
Wireless ConfigurationsLinks>
Wireless Installation Considerations and
Managing Signal Congestion and
Good Neighbour Policy - Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
- What wireless modes are you using?
- 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
- Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
- Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
- What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
- What wireless devices do you have connected?
- Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
- Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
- Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
Router PlacementForum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentialsThere is newer FW that you can try:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=57293.0