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[Windward10]

I am not sure if this is the right place to ask for help. I have searched through the forums but not found an answer that quite fits my problem.

I have had ongoing issues since I bought my D-Link Router. After some months of testing the router was found to be faulty and replaced. At the same time we have been having issues with our phone/DSL connection. We have had 14 different Engineers and heaven knows how many visits. They have now got the broadband synced and stable (we hope) but my connection speed does not match the sync speed using the D-Link router.

My set up is :-
Netgear DM200 modem in bridge mode.
DSL 880L router on PPoE (all other setting as out of the box) Firmware FW:1.07WW (as for UK) Router reset to factory before firmware upgraded.
Network - ethernet direct - to Laptop running windows 10

With the Netgear as a router I get   4.38 Mbps Down 1.07 Mbps up
With a BT Homehub 4 I get 4.2 Mbps 0.8 Mbps up ping latency 70-90
With a BT Homehub 5 I get 4.2 Mbps 0.8 Mbps up ping latency 70-90

With the D-link I get 3.6 Mbps Down & 0.5 Mbps up ping latency 70-115

We are told that, as we are a rural site on twin copper wires the best we will get it 4.5Mbps which is what we got average for a year or so on a BT HH5 before the line broke down. BT think they have fixed the problem and the connection seems stable. The sync speed measured from the exchange to the home is 4.3-4.5, but the throughput speed is slow on the D-Link. Trouble is I need the advanced firewall setting for our home business.

Can anyone tell me if the DIR880 is just naturally slower than a BT bog standard rubbish router, or is there something I can adjust or get fixed??? 

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What region are you located?
• Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
• Has a Factory Reset been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

  Link> >FW Update Process

• Was the router working before any firmware updates?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
• If the ISP modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT and How NAT Works. Call the ISP and ask to see if the ISP modem can be bridged. To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ. Also check the routers DHCP IP address maybe conflicting with the ISP modems IP address of 192.168.0.1. Check to see if this is the same on the ISP modem, and if modem can't be bridged, change the DIR router to 192.168.1.1 or .0.254.
  Example of a D-Link router configured for PPPoE with ISP Modem bridged: PPPoE Configuration on a Router

http://www.think-like-a-computer.com/2011/09/19/symmetric-nat/

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.


Be sure to do a factory reset on the router and speed test using. Don't set up any QoS after the factory reset.

You can try loading v1.08WW FW as well.

[Windward10]

    What region are you located? ----- UK, Cumbria
    Are you wired or wireless connected to the router? ----- Wired
    Has a Factory Reset been performed? ----- yes and firmware updated to Firmware: v1.08B06 BETA
    Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch? ----- Yes
    Was the router working before any firmware updates? ----- Yes
    Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. ----- All cables swapped, but as all are less than 1.5m long they are Cat5e. The speeds I get with the BT (British Telecom) router have been tested with the same cables, so cabling is not an issue with a cheap BT router, so why should it be with a D-Link one.
    Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values-----MTU is set 1492 BT require 1440-1500
    For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled. -----It is set to “Always ON”
    If the ISP modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem-----Modem bridged
QoS-----not set-up
I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.-----The phone/adsl line has been repaired and/or replaced and checked to the new BT Master(filter)plate. There is no other equipment between the incoming adsl line and the modem.

My set up is either:-
BT Master socket -- Netgear modem -- Dir 880l router -- laptop  (-- 3.6 Mbs)
or:-
BT Master socket -- BTHomehub 5 router -- laptop (-- 4.5Mbs)
or:-
BT Master socket -- BTHomehub 4 router -- laptop (-- 4.5Mbs)
or:-
BT Master socket -- Netgear DM200 router -- laptop (-- 4.5Mbs)

The problem for me is why I get a steady 4.5Mbs (avg) from 3 inferior() routers, but only get 3.6Mbs (max) from the Dir 880l?  Should I really get nearly 1Mbs drop off just because the router needs a separate modem?

[FurryNutz]

And the ISP modem is in full bridge mode?

Only thing I can think of is that there maybe a slight problem between the ISP modem and the router. You might try the Modem in router mode, disable all wifi, uPnP and firewalls on the modem, and use it's DMZ for the IP address the 880L gets from the modem and test.

You could set up QoS and input 5 Down and 2 UP and see what kind of results you get. Maybe something between this modem and the router thats not working right...

[Windward10]

It is increasingly looking like the problem is with the modem not the router. Is there any way to see what.speeds the modem is passing through to the router rather than the output of the router?

[FurryNutz]

No.

You have a DSL modem. You might try letting the modem do the PPPoE connect and then set the DIR router up as DHCP and see if this will connect and test speeds.