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[Akileze]

Hello All ..

 I just recently setup a network in my home and selected the D-Link DIR-655 router to manage traffic.

 It's not clear to me when this issue first appeared as I've been away so apologies for not having a proper timeline.

The router is setup in it's default configuration with only the IP Address being changed due to a conflict with my DSL modem. I don't have any experience with routers and it seemed to be working fine so I didn't mess with it.

However, the router goes into what appears to be an endless series of reboots making it completely unusable. This can occur anywhere from immediately upon a cold start power to a few hours into it.

I suspected a defective router and since I had been traveling the warranty was of no use so I purchased a brand new router last week which is also a DIR-655. The new router is doing exactly the same thing as the original one.

If I disable the wireless functionality both routers perform flawlessly for extended periods (many days/weeks). As soon as I enable wireless what appears to be warm start reboots begin as mentioned anywhere from immediately to a few hours along.

Since I am new to networking in general and routers in particular I thought perhaps am I doing something wrong and hence my post here.

The f/w in the new router is 204NA. I don't recall the f/w release of the initial router but I  did update it within the last month to whatever was the most current from D-Link. If it's important to know the f/w release of the initial router I will find it for you.

Summary:

Two (2) DIR 655 routers appear to enter a state of perpetual warm start reboots whenever wireless functionality is enabled. This begins anywhere from immediately to a few hours after a router cold start.

Disabling the wireless functionality completely stabilizes both routers.

Can anyone lend a hand with this?

I would be most appreciative of your assistance.

Thank you in advance for any insight into this frustrating situation.

Cheers,
Akileze

[FurryNutz]

What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Please verify Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
What region are you located?

What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.

Some things to try:
Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking.

Wireless Installation Considerations
What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Use InSSIDer to find out.
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Turn off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using teamviewer if your interested. Its safe and secure.

[Akileze]

Oh my Furry thank you so very much for the wealth of information.

The routers, both original and new replacement, are H/W Version: B1

The new router which is currently in the network is at F/W release 204NA.

I am in the Midwest, USA and my ISP provider is CenturyLink and I am on DSL service (10Mbps Down/768 Kbps Up).

My DSL Modem is just modem (no router functions/ports) and is made by NetGear. It is model: DM111PSP

I'm not sure what wireless modes I am using (sorry I will look). Whatever the router defaults to is what I am currently using. I just powered up the router, changed the IP to something that didn't conflict with my modem and that's it.

Thank you so much and I will try all of the things you suggested. Oh an I live in very rural area and doubt I am in proximity to another wireless network but will try to confirm that.

My schedule is a bit hectic but I will update this my situation as best I can. I have an Android phone (EVO 3D), a Kindle Fire and an ASUS laptop that are all wireless. I have however currently connected my laptop via ethernet to the router due to the wireless issues.

Again, your feedback is very much appreciated.

I'll try your suggestions either this evening or tomorrow schedule permitting.

Cheers

[FurryNutz]

You may want to bridge the DSL modem as it's preferred to use the 655 to handle the PPPoE DSL information and traffic management. This also eliminates the IP address conflict between the Modem and 655 as your probably getting a private IP address of 192.168.0.1 on the 655 WAN side from the NG modem. Switching to bridged mode will pass alone a public IP address that your modem sees from the ISP, something like ##.##.###.###. This also helps to eliminate Double NAT that can cause connection issues between applications and connection services you maybe connecting to thru the modem and router.

If you don't have any neighbors around, then wifi should be working well with out any interferences however there could be other interferences like microwave ovens and cordless house phones that can cause problems.

Default wireless modes out of the box are Mixed A B G and N all going at the same time. Newer devices over the past 5  or so years mainly use G and N. I recommend changing modes to Mixed G and N only and if you don't have any devices that don't support N modes, then use single mode G. This helps cut down on router having to broadcast modes that aren't being used and strengthens the signal a bit.

Keep us posted.

[Akileze]

Hi Furry,
 I have good news! After trying all of the suggestions you recommended to no avail I made several calls to D-Link tech support yet again. This time I was put in touch with an extremeley knowlegeable  man who resolved ALL of the issues and the router is now 100% stable with ZERO dropouts.

Now unfortunately this support tech had me made so many changes I'm afraid I don't  recall most of them. However, I did save them to a configuaration file so I will make them available to you if like.

Just let me know where you would like me to upload this file and I'll be more than happy to do so.

Thank you for your support.

All the Best,
Akileze

[FurryNutz]

Yes I'd like to see this file and see if I can figure out what he did. Can you email me that file?

[Akileze]

Hi Furry,

Plz pardon the delay as I've been out of town.

If you would still like to see the config file just send me a request to:
Akileze@rocketmail.com

I will then send you the config.bin asap.

Thanks again for your help through all of this and ..

Best Regards,
Akileze

[FurryNutz]

Enjoy the new router and should work well for you.
 

[prush]

I have had this continuous rebooting with two DIR-655B1 routers.
Upgrading from firmware 2.00 to 2.06 (European versions) made no difference.

The best thing I’ve found is
1. disable wireless
2. Power up and leave 6 minutes. Watch the status screen.
  For 5 mins the modem is connected but there is no Internet access.
  It then reboots by itself and a minute later you have Internet.
3. Now enable wireless and the router remains stable.

My theory is that there is a 5min ‘training’ period that is affected by the wireless.