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[InIc]

It's my 4th D-link over the years. This was supposed to be a better one than the 628 and 615.

Am I missing something, or did did Dlink drop some of the features? For example, Status > Logs would show any MAC address that was trying to connect. With that one could copy & paste it in to the "Advanced > Network Filter". Logs don't show it anymore (yes - everything is checked). Now, it is a matter of writing down the Physical address, and typing it in. And what's with the "Wait XXX" minutes for every change? Never did that on the good old 628!

Now, there is a "... IP address conflict with another computer on the network"  Use to be I'd put in a MAC, Save, and the new comp could start addressing the Internet.

I called D-link, and of course was told to go to www.d-li...." I would, if the router had worked. After a long while listening to static and scratching sounds, the tech came on, had me enter a series of IP addresses I've never heard of, and it looked like I was routing routed access routes!

It connected. OK, but a new and improved router shouldn't require so much manual attention. When a comp connects to the Internet, it takes a long time. Testing this, I connected directly through the modem, no problem. Pushing a connection through the router takes 5 times longer. I tested more than one computer.

That aside, also, why is it in Advanced > Network Filters when adding a new MAC address, the "Computer Name" is blank? Wasn't like that with the older models. While the names never stuck, at least they tried.

I'm not a guru or very adept with routers - not my billy-wag and like most people, don't want to learn too much, just enough to get around. The problem is, no matter what, there is no getting around this thing.

What's wrong with the 628? Warranty expired. So did the router. No warning, just stopped. So bought the 825. I wish I could resuscitate the 615 - it worked and had more features. The 825 has about 10 months left on the warranty, but like I explained, the tech jury-rigged it with bubble gum and safety pins.

My next will be a CISCO I think - tomorrow.

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!
What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
What region are you located?
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
My 825 has been working fine for me. I love the 825. The DIR-825 is a very stable router. Some external environment or interferences can cause any router not to work well.

What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.
Double NAT
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.

Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1.
Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking.

Link>Wireless Installation Considerations
What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Try single mode G or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Try turning off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.

Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.

Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer if your interested. Its safe and secure.

[InIc]

Wow! Thanks for all of that.

I don't think I'd be asking about this had the tech not jury-rigged everything.

To answer your questions, most are directed at local interference. With old 628, never a problem. Features worked properly. Now they don't.

Firmware is up to date. The router is H/W is B1  F/W 2.06NA
There are 2 local WiFi but their signals are about 5% strength. They never affected anything before. Neither did the wireless hand-held phone.

With all that you suggested turning off, I wonder - would it be easier to just go back and use my old hub and connect directly to the modem, and hold paper down with the router?

I'm afraid to use the Shareport. When I did use it with the 628, it blew the Shareport USB and could never recognize it thereafter.

But it's certainly a lot of tweaking and twonking just to get the Status > Logs to show what MACs tried to connect. Use to be if a comp tried to access the Internet or network, Status > Logs would show a "Denied access to MAC ###"  Doesn't even mention anything about access any more.

A lot of people come and go from  here with laptops, and sometimes need to connect. With filtering on to allow ONLY the MACs listed, we now have to find their MAC address, write it down, go to the wired desktop and manual type it in, with the colon ( after every 2 characters. Before, one only had to either copy and paste it from the "Denied" or type it in without the colons. A lot is in the admin panel. While the same links for managing everything are still there, the service from the apps is short - i.e. do not function as they once did.

As for the "address conflict" ... got that resolved.

Thanks very much for your time. It does not go unappreciated.

[FurryNutz]

Seems like you need to figure out what works best for you. If you don't need a external router then maybe using a switch or hub is best for you if your ISP Modem has a built in router.

All routers work well and as intended out of the box. Just because a router may work well for a period of time then all of a sudden doesn't, it doesn't mean that there is a HW issue. I most cases, we see external interferences and user configuration that are the cause of router problems. Specially in areas that are congested with WiFi routers going. Theres only 11 channels to work with and if an area gets more then all the channels can handle, WiFi problems will be seen. Specially on 2.4Ghz.

I would recommend trying some of the suggestions. The 825 is a great router. How ever if your not using it to it's fullest capabilities, then I would suggest simplifying your system for your needs.

Good luck.