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[Hammerman]

Hi all
I've had a series of Dlink routers over the years and they've worked well.
Last week my DIR 601 sudden froze and stopped working. All the lights were on and despite physically rebooting it remained frozen. No reason. Just kaput. Past warranty so off to the story to buy a new DIR 615.
Installed. All good. It's installed in my second floor office and the Wifi signal serves the front of the house and the second and third floors just fine.
My network is both wired and wireless (the cables were run when it was cheaper to run cables than wireless....looooong time ago) There are 10 or so devices, ranging from tablets to PCs to Apple Tvs to Voip.

I run Network Magic to keep track and I manually set up the routers. It works fine. I can see all the devices and check their ips and get in and out of the DIR 615 just fine.

When I log into the DIR 615, at the top left is says DIR 615 and then right below the brown D LINK logo at the left at the start of the black ribbon of menu buttons it says WB2310 so it appears to be set up properly because I have an old WBR 2310, one of my earlier routers set up under the stairs with my Windows Home Server on the first floor to serve Wifi to the back deck and the back of the house. It's set up as a access point.

WBR2310 is set with NAT check and DHCP enable unchecked so the DIR 615 should be assigning IPs. It is set at IP 192.168.0.50 (DIR 615 is at .1) and it is running firmware 2.0 and is accessible through the url/ip



So it's all good for the first few hours when suddenly the DIR 615 shuts down. THe only way to bring it back on is to physically reboot it since I can't find it when I try to access via the IP.

Weird. All the devices have unique IPs and I've reserved all of them I can.

But then. every 12 hours or so it just shuts down and we lose internet though my Network Magic says we still have Internet Connectivity.

So I'm down to this:

1) Is the firmware in the old WBR2310 in conflict with the firmware in the Dir615? (9.03)

2) Or is this a Network Magic problem (though I can't see why but I'm elminating things on my list.

If it's problem 1 then I'll have to buy another DIr 615 to set up as an access point and I can get Dlink to trouble shoot via support if I continue to have issues since right now they keep saying the WB2310 is not supported (and I keep saying I think it's a firmware issue)

If it's NM I'l like to know what the issue is because I'm kinda partial to that app.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've wrestled with this for three days now.

[FurryNutz]

I would recommend not using Network Magic as this can cause problems in normal network environments in which is not needed with the use of these routers.

Also review this:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=54498.0

[Hammerman]

It's actually eight hours on the dot!!!! Just had it crash and had to reset it.

And why not NM? It just gives me a map and a way to test and access quickly and to check IPs assigned.

ANd I checked through the list on the link....all good...


still no answers?

[FurryNutz]

Please post your results and answers to some of the questions presented in that link. Once we get a better idea of your situation, I think we can go from there and help you find out whats going on.

[Hammerman]

Appreciate the comment...for some reason I didn't get notified.





Are you wired or wireless connected to the router? Bith
Has a Factory Reset been performed? Yes
Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates? No
Was the router working before any firmware updates? Well yes and no

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL? Cable Works fine direct
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT and How NAT Works. To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
No modem router

Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values Nah...not the issue
For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled. nope

Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Yeah done that.


Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel. Huh ont do any of that


Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.

Nope no advanced DNS out of the biox



Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Huh

Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench
That's not the issue

Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.\
Oh yeah...still have to reboot...did all that;\

Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address. yes

If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only or Disable IPv6 options under Setup/IPv6.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. nope




Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.

No clue what this means

Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced. Okay

WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server feature. Tools/Time.

Nope


Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. YES YES YES did all that.

Wireless Configurations Wireless actually works when I don't have IP conflict or it decides not to recognize the device.


Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion



Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.

Huh


What wireless modes are you using?

2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones? YEs.


Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Just DIR615 amnd the WBR used as an access point


If you have any of theese options, Try turning off Short GI, WLAN Partition, HT 20/40 Co-exhistance and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Nah

Enable WMM Enable Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless. Huh...

3rd Party Security Software Configurations

Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.

Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
6" minimum safe distance between devices.

Web Browser Configurations
What browser are you using?
Try Opera or FF? If IE 8 or 9, set compatibility mode and test again.
Try turning off these features in Chrome:
Top right corner, little bars for options > Settings > Settings (on left) > Show advanced settings.
Uncheck these:
Use a web service to help resolve navigation errors
Use a prediction service to help complete searches and URLs typed in the address bar
Predict network actions to improve page load performance
Enable phishing and malware protection

NOTE:
Not all router features and options are the same so users may not see the same features when troubleshooting. Review the appropriate features and options available for your model router.

Additional help maybe available using Link> Teamviewer if users are interested,  or if users are not comfortable in using there routers.  Its safe and secure.

[FurryNutz]

What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?

Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Just DIR615 amnd the WBR used as an access point.
Are the channels between the DIR and WBR on different or same? Does the 615 freeze up or stop working if you disable the WBR for a while and test only with the 615 running?


Try single mode N on the 615?