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[sanmo8knild]

I've got lots of devices and lots of routers, but I'll keep this simple: my main iPhone 4S will not connect to wifi. I've got separate SSIDs for 2.4 and 5GHz networks. Computers can connect to the 2.4 but it isn't stable. In fact, this router's wireless capabilities really seem to suck relative to a bunch of other devices I have around here. I bought mine off Amazon Warehouse Deals hardware A1 and it seems in perfect physical order. I'm in North America. It came with 1.05 firmware but I've upgraded to 1.08 now, performed a factory reset, and now I'm using everything in stock configuration except the following.

(1) SSIDs have been changed to custom and unique plain ASCII values. No special chars, nothing crazy here.

(2) Network passwords have been changed along with SSIDs. Both radios are config'd to WPA Mode "auto" cipher "TKIP and AES" with the group key still at default val of 3600. Obviously my security mode is "WPA Personal"

(3) 2.4 Channel autoscan is now DISabled

(4) 2.4 Channel width is 20MHz

(5) 2.4 wireless channel forced to 1

Note that my 5GHz network is in stock config (autoscan, 20/40 MHz, auto channel, etc) and it seems to work just fine. Some devices can connect to my 2.4 some of the time, but my iPhone never can (in fact, 6 iPhones I've tried from 3G up to 5S all canNOT). I tried the 2.4 in stock mode and it seemed to be worse than now.

Suggestions are very welcome. This router is getting returned if I can't solve this easily. Sucks that big-brand Dlink hardware doesn't work out of the box.

[sanmo8knild]

Also I forgot to mention:

I'm in a relatively open physical environment. I've tried being centimeters from the router, one or two meters, and up to about 10 meters. Nothing works. The 2.4GHz SSID literally doesn't show up on my iPhone. I've tried a few other channels too, but there aren't many radios near me so it isn't like I'm in a crowded RF space.

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
• Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
• What region are you located?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.

PC 3rd Party Security Software Configurations

• Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
• Turn off all devices accept for one wired LAN PC while testing.
• Disable any downloading client software managers, i.e. Torrents or similar.

[sanmo8knild]

Looks like an autoreply from FurryNutz, and I tried to pre-answer all these, but just to be complete I'll go through point by point:

- DIR-860L rev A1
- Firmware 1.08 (originally 1.05). Interestingly both had the same behavior.
- North America (California)

- TWC, but that's irrelevant here as my WAN works fine
- Again should be irrelevant, but I have a new ARRIS / Motorola SB6121 SURFboard. Works great.

- default SSIDs change? check! Bonus: SSIDs are nice clean ASCII (no special chars except the dash in the dash-five-g-h-z network)
- currently 2.4GHz = Mixed N+G+B and 5GHz = Mixed AC+N+A, but I've tried simpler versions like 2.4=B+G and 2.4=B, and that doesn't change things.
- Width: Currently 20MHz-only, but I've tried auto as well.
- Channel: I started with auto, but now I'm static at Channel=1
- Security: WPA-Personal, I've tried various security modes with that and currently on Auto
- Currently just a MacBook Air (Mid-2013), a Lenovo X230i, an iPhone 4S and a 5S, and a Samsung Galaxy S4, but I have lots of other machines I can hookup if I want.
- Any 2.4/5 devices nearby? Nope. I own a Uniden 5.8DECT phone that I've tested and it does not interfere as far as I can tell (remember my 5GHz network is the one that works!)
- ~10 networks nearby, no particularly strong or crazy signals, though. Pretty calm for a mid-suburban RF environment
- I don't see a Short-GI option for my device. WLAN partition is already off, I don't see "extra wireless protection" and HT20/40 coexist is already disabled (which is default from what I can tell).

- Router is placed in the middle of an open room on top of a table in floor 2 of a 3 floor townhouse. I've direct just about every spherical angle and distance, I assure you that's not my problem because it isn't changing things at all.

- 3rd party stuff, virus protection, etc? All off and all irrelevant. This is clearly a 2.4GHz radio issue, not an internet or computer issue.

[FurryNutz]

No it's not a automated relay sir.

• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

FW Update Process

If your devices are all N supporting, lets test with 2.4Ghz on single mode N, WPA2/AES only, Auto 20/40Mhz and find a clear open channel and set a manual channel. See if 1, 6 or 11 are not being used and set appropriately. Keep HT20/40 disabled.

If this still fails, I recommend reloading v1.08 using the above linked information and using IE to reload the file and try once more. If after this and 2.4Ghz still fails, I'll recommend an RMA.

Let us know how it goes.

[bepro]

checking on this post to see if it gets resolved.  I'm having the exact same issues.  Been playing with a lot of FurryNutz suggestions from this post and others and still can't seem to get it resolved.  Still on Firmware v1.4 was going to update to 1.8 but it doesn't seem like that helped sammo.

No Problems connecting to 5ghz on all devices that can access that.  I am yet to get something connected to 2.4Ghz channel.  LAN and everything else seems to work fine

[FurryNutz]

Any status on this? 

Looks like an autoreply from FurryNutz, and I tried to pre-answer all these, but just to be complete I'll go through point by point:

- DIR-860L rev A1
- Firmware 1.08 (originally 1.05). Interestingly both had the same behavior.
- North America (California)

- TWC, but that's irrelevant here as my WAN works fine
- Again should be irrelevant, but I have a new ARRIS / Motorola SB6121 SURFboard. Works great.

- default SSIDs change? check! Bonus: SSIDs are nice clean ASCII (no special chars except the dash in the dash-five-g-h-z network)
- currently 2.4GHz = Mixed N+G+B and 5GHz = Mixed AC+N+A, but I've tried simpler versions like 2.4=B+G and 2.4=B, and that doesn't change things.
- Width: Currently 20MHz-only, but I've tried auto as well.
- Channel: I started with auto, but now I'm static at Channel=1
- Security: WPA-Personal, I've tried various security modes with that and currently on Auto
- Currently just a MacBook Air (Mid-2013), a Lenovo X230i, an iPhone 4S and a 5S, and a Samsung Galaxy S4, but I have lots of other machines I can hookup if I want.
- Any 2.4/5 devices nearby? Nope. I own a Uniden 5.8DECT phone that I've tested and it does not interfere as far as I can tell (remember my 5GHz network is the one that works!)
- ~10 networks nearby, no particularly strong or crazy signals, though. Pretty calm for a mid-suburban RF environment
- I don't see a Short-GI option for my device. WLAN partition is already off, I don't see "extra wireless protection" and HT20/40 coexist is already disabled (which is default from what I can tell).

- Router is placed in the middle of an open room on top of a table in floor 2 of a 3 floor townhouse. I've direct just about every spherical angle and distance, I assure you that's not my problem because it isn't changing things at all.

- 3rd party stuff, virus protection, etc? All off and all irrelevant. This is clearly a 2.4GHz radio issue, not an internet or computer issue.

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What region are you located?

Can you test 2.4Ghz with out any WiFi security and let us know if your devices connect to it?
Please provide some feedback on the following:

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building is preferred. Not in basements as building materials could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.

checking on this post to see if it gets resolved.  I'm having the exact same issues.  Been playing with a lot of FurryNutz suggestions from this post and others and still can't seem to get it resolved.  Still on Firmware v1.4 was going to update to 1.8 but it doesn't seem like that helped sammo.

No Problems connecting to 5ghz on all devices that can access that.  I am yet to get something connected to 2.4Ghz channel.  LAN and everything else seems to work fine

[bepro]

What region are you located? North America/United States

Can you test 2.4Ghz with out any WiFi security and let us know if your devices connect to it?
Please provide some feedback on the following: I actually took the security off just to make it faster to check if i can connect, still same problems(been using an Iphone 5 to check connectivity)

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy
Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual. Yup SSID is changed, normal alpha numeric
What wireless modes are you using?
2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz? I have tried single mode and mixed mode, in conjuncition with auto 20/40 and 20mhz only
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Tried, 1, 6, and 11, and also tried singled mode N w/ channel 11
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES. Was using WPA-Personal eventually shut it off of the 2.4ghz side
What wireless devices do you have connected? there are 4 computers connected via LAN, an ipad connected via 5ghz and nothing on 2.4
Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by? there is no cordless house phones and/or wifi APs nearby
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? 0 wifi routers nearby
If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Tried WLAN Partition and enabling/disabling HT20/40 Co-existence, I also tried changing the transmit power to low/medium as well
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building is preferred. Not in basements as building materials could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
it's on the ground about 4' from me.  There's nothing around it, the closest thing is my computer probably 8' away

[FurryNutz]

So nothing is connecting, if with Security disabled.

I'd try to load v1.08 using the  FW Update Process please. Please report your findings. If this results in the same problem, I'll recommend that you phone contact your regional D-Link support office and ask for help and information regarding this and as for an RMA or return the unit to place of purchase and get another unit. We find that phone contact has better immediate results over using email.

[bepro]

Looks like it worked!!! Followed the firmware update process,

1 .Factory Reset
2. Firmware Install
3. Factory reset
4. manually entered internet settings

My iphone connected, going to try hooking up the printers, will post back if it works for those as well.  Thanks FurryNutz

[FurryNutz]

Awesome. 

[bepro]

Everything connected just find, ran both printers without a hitch.

[FurryNutz]

Awesome, glad its working now. Enjoy.