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[Cracktower]

I have a dir-655 and the thing just stops working. I have had this router for a while no with zero issues. I have not played with the settings recently so I don't know why it just started acting this way. I will be online and it starts to get really slow then the pages don't load. Refresh and I get the no internet connection page. Within 5 minutes my kids tell me their phones/tablets aren't on the net either (not all at the same time). The funny thing is that the modem is all in blue and blinking like they normally do. Sometimes when this happens they (which ever port is running) blink really fast, even though there isn't a lot of activity. I know that gaming systems cause this type of blinking but it happens on my connected port and I'm just reading e-mail, no virus scan going on in the background. So I check the modem, unplug one of the ports and direct connect into modem, connection works. Put it back into the router, no connection. Not the modem. So I rest the router, it works, then within 2 days it does it again. Last time I did get the orange globe for wifi, but then it came on to blue with still no connection on wifi. This time I unplugged Router power for a minute and it worked again. Is this thing telling giving me last leg signals??

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
• Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
• What region are you located?
• Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
• Has a Factory Reset been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

>FW Update Process

• Was the router working before any firmware updates?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.

[Drano]

I'd bet it's overheating. I had one that worked great for years and started doing the same thing. It was just randomly winking out. I actually caught it doing it a couple of times. It would just randomly reboot itself. That's why you'd go to look at it and it'd be fine. Annoying as hell isn't it? I still have mine but only use it as my emergency backup.

[FurryNutz]

The DIR 655 Rev B doesn't really run that hot. Unless it's not placed in a good ventilated area. Usually when routers stop working it's a ISP service issue or WiFi environment cause...

I'd bet it's overheating. I had one that worked great for years and started doing the same thing. It was just randomly winking out. I actually caught it doing it a couple of times. It would just randomly reboot itself. That's why you'd go to look at it and it'd be fine. Annoying as hell isn't it? I still have mine but only use it as my emergency backup.

[Cracktower]

Link>Welcome!

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.

B1 f/w 2.00NA I upgraded to 2.11

• Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.

2.11

• What region are you located?

North America

• Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?

Hard wired from cable modem.

• Has a Factory Reset been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

>FW Update Process
No factory reset eer done, only powered on and off, this works EVERY time but sometimes only lasts a day, sometimes 2 days.

• Was the router working before any firmware updates?

Yes, working after firmware update as well.
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?

Cable (Optimum)

• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.

No problem with the Cable modem, when the router stops working I always just connect my main computer to the Cable modem directly and it's up in 15 seconds. I have a phone, it's a wired phone but part of a 2.4 ghz wireless system. I have had this setup with no changes for years (except the wifi password has changed periodically). I haven't moved anything in my work area. I have, upon reading, spaced out the phone and modem/router as far as I can but I have limited space. I have zero complaints on this router, my kids get wifi waiting for their bus in the morning, which is approx. 100 yards ( 4 houses ) away.
This has recently just started acting up. Any changes in hardware would be hard wired, like a new xbox one in the network.
I am not a software guy, I know my way around hardware.

I'd bet it's overheating. I had one that worked great for years and started doing the same thing. It was just randomly winking out. I actually caught it doing it a couple of times. It would just randomly reboot itself. That's why you'd go to look at it and it'd be fine. Annoying as hell isn't it? I still have mine but only use it as my emergency backup.

The room I have this in is pretty cool and well ventilated so I don't thinks that's the problem.
I have never run into an intermittent problem like this. It has become like an every day gamble when I go to the computer/access my e-mail on my phone.

[FurryNutz]

• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
• If cordless phone run on 2.4Ghz, then this could be a cause of interferences and a router reboot.
• Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.