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[rf2ner]

I haven't been able to get wireless Internet, even though the wireless client connects to the DIR-655 and all of the LAN side computers can access the Internet.
Then I came across this post, so I disconnected the LAN clients and WOW! the wireless Internet worked.  Connecting the LAN items back up, they worked on the Internet, also....... Then once shutting down the browsers and starting them again -- no Internet again.

The post helped me see more clearly what the problem was and an awkward workaround, but I still need an answer as to how a permanent fix can be made.

Help !!

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
• Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
• What region are you located?
• Has a Factory Reset been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

>FW Update Process

• Was the router working before any firmware updates?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials

PC 3rd Party Security Software Configurations

• Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
• Turn off all devices accept for one wired LAN PC while testing.
• Disable any downloading client software managers, i.e. Torrents or similar.

PC Web Browser Configurations
What browser are you using?
Try Opera or FF? If IE 8, 9, 10 or 11, set compatibility mode and test again.
Disable any security browser Add-ons like No Script and Ad-Block or configure them to allow All Pages when connected to the router.
Clear all browser caches.
Be sure to log into the Admin account on the router.
Try turning off these features in Chrome:
Top right corner, little bars for options > Settings > Settings (on left) > Show advanced settings.
Uncheck these:
Use a web service to help resolve navigation errors
Use a prediction service to help complete searches and URLs typed in the address bar
Predict network actions to improve page load performance
Enable phishing and malware protection

[rf2ner]

Hi Furry Nutz,

Thank you for the quick and detailed response.  I will be able to use it to better optimize my setup.
However, before proceeding with anything else, I decided to try out two ideas that came to mind when I woke up the other morning.
My setup has the DIR-655 WAN port connected to my ISP provided Westell 6100.  Coming off the DIR-655 is a DL-604 on the LAN side and an Android Tablet off the wireless side.
Not realizing the "Network" was more than the LAN side, I assigned a Static IP Address to the DL-604 WAN using its MAC Address, but assumed the Tablet on the Wireless side was assigned by DHCP automatically.  But that resulted in either the LAN or the Wireless to connect to the Modem but not both at the same time, and after updating the DIR-655 firmware to version 3.02, the Tablet was unable to get an IP Address at all for the Tablet.
Tonight, I opened the Network Settings in the DiR-655 and assigned a Static IP Address to the Tablet using its MAC Address, also.  And WOW !! It worked.  So there was no need to even try my second idea.
Now both the Wireless side and the LAN side can now connect to the Internet at the same time.
   PROBLEM SOLVED. 

As for my setup,
Except for the modem automatically assigning a dynamic IP address to the DIR-655 WAN side, everything else in the entire system is assigned Static IP Addresses by the two routers, including any network printers.
My DIR-655 is H/W version C-1 and now has Firmware version 3.02.
The DL-604 is H/W version E-3 and now has Firmware version 3.53.
My ISP Service is DSL, 600 kbps Up load, and about 3.5 Mbps Download speed.

Thanks for mentioning the ISP MTU.  I need to contact my ISP and make sure all my MTU settings are set to optimum.

  I'm using WPA-Personal, WPA2, AES and WPS, wireless modes, but I only need WPS.  If all I need is WPS, should I change anything to increase security so someone can't log into the wireless side of the router  using a password only, or is that taken care of by having WPS activated ?  Does that question make any sense - I'm relatively new at wireless settings.

I will follow your advice and move my DIR-655 away from other electronic devices to improve signal strength throughout the house, and hopefully in the back yard this summer.  Right now, it's only inches away from the network router, switch, and printer router.

Thank you for your assistance.
And I thank D-Link for their forum.  It gave me relief to know that others have problems, too, and they can be solved, usually very simply.

RF2ner 



 

[FurryNutz]

What happens if you remove the DI series routers from the network and test again?

If your using the DI series router in conjunction with the DIR series router, then you maybe introducing problems. If you need the wireless features of the DI series router in addition to the DIR router, try configuring the DI router using this:
Turning a router into an AP.

[rf2ner]

Hi FurryNutz,

To eliminate the DL-604 from the system means I would then have to log all of those MAC addresses of eight or more devices into the DIR-655 to get back to the same wired security I presently have with the DL-604.
Also, I really don't like the idea of having a wireless device on the same closed network as my wired devices, especially since the wireless device does not have any reason to communicate with anything on the wired network.

Thus I have the ISP's modem feeding the WAN input of the secured DIR-655 which takes care of the wireless device and the wired network is connected to the LAN side of the DIR-655 via the DL-604 router.  (To accomodate all of the wired devices, I also incorporate an 8-port D-Link switch connected to one of the LAN ports of the DL-604.)
The wired network is isolated all by itself via the DL-604.
Note: I am not using the DL-604 in place of a switch or repeater, but strictly as a redundant NAT router to isolate the wired network from the DIR-655 wireless router.  This may sound like overkill, but it gives me a better feeling of security in today's environment.  (What happens when the DL-604 finally dies? -- Well, I have two spares, so all the saved settings will work without any modification.)

Ever since I corrected my mistake of not including the wireless device on the DIR-655's small network, things have been working very smoothly for all devices.

This setup provides a secure connection for the wireless device, and complete isolation for the wired network, as originally intended.  Notihing can enter the DL-604 secured wired network via a wireless connection, but the wired network has full Internet connectivity and full internal connectivity within the wired network itself.

Thank you for all of the added information.  I plan to study it to learn more about routers and networks.  It will come in handy if and when changes are found to be made in the future.

[FurryNutz]

Good Luck.