Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[m4p]

I'm back....Success!!!!!  I just used IE 7 and flashed with the web GUI.  No problems at all.  At first I couldn't get internet after the flash (I use PPOE) but figured out you have to go into services and enable PPPOE Relay (even though I had chosen it in setup).  

Right now I have it streaming to my bluray player as the main router.  It's working great.  But I still want a wired connection with the bluray player because it performs better that way.  Right now using wireless, I'm getting about 156 Mbps.  Is there any way to tweak it to get a higher rate?

I also have a Tenda W307R router (got it for free for attending a seminar) which isn't the greatest.  I was going to use it as the main router but now I'm thinking to use the Dlink as the main router and the Tenda as the bridge.  Not sure if the Tenda can be a bridge and there is no third party firmware support for it.  It has a function called WDS but I'm not sure what that all means.  From an ad for the Tenda router:  "How many times have you had to add a network bridge to help extend your home or office network? Well the Tenda W306R and W307R has an easy solution for you WDS (Wireless Distribution System), this allows you to bridge other routers to extend that wireless network."

But I'm not sure if that means the Tenda has to be the main router or if it can be a bridge.

Edit:  Meanwhile I also have a PC in my basement.  With my old router, a Buffalo G with Tomato FW, I would get a strong signal and approximately 54 Mbps.  I since bought a wireless N adapter and today connected with the Dlink.  I was really disappointed at how bad the performance was.  I barely am getting 6 Mbps, and can't connect to the internet (maybe because the signal was reading very poor, I don't know.  Are the antennas removable on the Dlink?

[Skello]

Great to hear you got it working.

WDS is strictly for bridging wireless clients. However, I think this build of DD-WRT, which is mini, because it has to fit onto 4 MB of ROM, doesn't have the WDS support. Go to Wireless > Basic Settings and under Wireless Mode see if you have anything with WDS.

Also, WDS is not a standard yet, and because of this chipset makers implemented it differently, leading to many incompatibilities between chipsets. DIR-615 E1 uses an Atheros chipset, while Tenda W307R (all revisions) uses Ralink chipsets. Problems are to be expected, even if the DIR-615 E1 DD-WRT build you have does support WDS.

If WDS is no go, then you are left with two options.

Option 1:

Use Tenda W307R in AP mode and the DIR-615 with DD-WRT in Client Bridge mode, with the blu-ray player connected over wired to it.

In this mode the blu-ray player will be on the same subnet, for example 192.168.1.X, with devices connected directly to the Tenda router. Not sure if that matters to you.

I'm fairly sure in this mode you won't be able to use the wireless on the DIR-615 to connect clients to it since it will be entirely dedicated for the connection to the Tenda W307R. I might be wrong though. You will, however, be able to connect wireless clients directly to Tenda and more wired clients to DIR-615.

Option 2:

Use DIR-615 as main router and AP and configure Tenda's wireless as "Station Mode." This will have pretty much the same effect on Tenda as the "Client Bridge" mode had on the DIR-615 in the first scenario, but the subnet will not be same.

Clients connected directly to DIR-615 will have 192.168.1.X IPs, while clients connected to Tenda, like the blu-ray, will have 192.168.2.X, for example. Accessing devices on 192.168.1.X subnet from the blu-ray (192.168.2.X) should be straight forward, but doing it the other way around would be problematic.

Also, in this option the blu-ray is also connected via a wired connection and the Tenda doesn't accept wireless connection from clients (I think).

So, without WDS support on the DIR-615 you can't really have the blu-ray connected via wireless, unless you link the two routers with a cable. But that deceives the purpose of your setup.

Also if different subnets are not an issue, I would choose option 2, because DIR-615 with DD-WRT would probably give your Internet connection more stability and will be able to handle more connections (like if you use torrents etc.) then Tenda.

Hope this helps. Looking forward on hearing what you chose and the progress made.

[m4p]

Skello, thanks so much for the reply, you're a total hero.  I checked the Dlink and it has under Wireless Mode, the option of WDS Station or WDS AP.  I did try WDS previously with a Netgear and the Tenda and never could get it to work.  I might not have been doing it right though.

I'm not sure yet which option to try.  What I would eventually like to be able to do is have one of the N routers as the main router, then the other N router as a bridge for the bluray player which is N. 

Then, I would like to have my Buffalo G router connected to the main N router.  Then in the living room have my Buffalo ethernet converter connected to my Directv receiver which is G speed.  That way I could keep my N and G separate. 

Maybe too much, do you think?  I would also like to eventually replace the Tenda with a better router like the Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH.  I just need to find a good deal on one.

I would like to go with your Option 2, I think.  Would DHCP be turned on both routers?  I would assume yes?

[m4p]

Another question, is there any way to boost the wireless performance in advance settings?  Thanks

[asherber]

I've got a DIR-615 rev E which I successfully flashed to DD-WRT. But now I've decided I don't like DD-WRT so much, and I'm having problems getting back to the original DLink firmware. I followed the guide at the DD-WRT wiki and here: http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=15521.0  but no luck. I'm seeing lots of the same things noted in that thread: Firefox 3.6 will bring up the ER, but only if I enter reset mode after powering up the router, and then it won't send the firmware (connection reset while loading); IE8 will bring up the ER but won't send the firmware; Chrome and Safari will bring up the ER and *look* like they're sending the firmware, but it appears they're not actually.

The posters in that thread both eventually got things working, but I keep hitting dead ends.

I'm running WinXP SP3. Any hints would be appreciated.

[gregwee]

Just bought a DIR-615 (H/W: E4) to use as a repeater/bridge for my DIR-655 AP. 

Installed the latest DD-WRT (Firmware: DD-WRT v24-sp2 (11/21/10) std build 15778), and tried following the post here to setup a Client Bridge, and a Virtual AP, with both "bridged" together.

My setting as follows:
Setup:
WAN: disabled
LAN: 192.168.2.201
Gateway: 192.168.2.1 (IP address for my DIR-655)

Wireless
ath0:
Mode: Client Bridge (Routed)
Gateway: Manual, (192.168.2.1) - The IP for my DIR-655 AP
Network: NG-Mixed
Bandwidth: Auto 20/40mhz
SSID: Same name as my DIR-655
Encryption: WPA2 Personal, AES, same password as my DIR-655

Virtual AP
ath0.1
Mode: AP
Network: NG-Mixed
SSID: New AP Name
Encryption: WPA2 Personal, AES, same password as my DIR-655

My problem, is that the bridging doesn't seem to work.  I can connect ath0 to my DIR-655 AP, by going to "Site Survey", then click on the "Join" button on my AP.  Connecting my laptop to the DIR-615 through the LAN port, I cannot "Ping" my DIR-655 at 192.168.2.1, and DHCP from the DIR-655 doesn't work.  Trying to connect to the Virtual AP, I cannot obtain an IP address since it seems that the ath0 and ath0.1 interfaces are not bridged, and the DIR-615 isn't able to use the DHCP service from the DIR-655.

Any idea what I should try next?

I've reset the router and re-configured it twice, but still the same problem.

[Skello]

Hmmm, what are you trying to achieve?

Client bridge mode bridges two routers over wireless, but the second router (DIR-615) can only serve wired clients.

If you want both wired and wireless clients connected to the DIR-615, which is connected to DIR-655 wirelessly then what you want is "Repeater Bridge." Read more here: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Repeater_Bridge

First router needs to be in AP mode.

Also, latest build for your router is ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSlayer-V24-preSP2/2011/02-17-11-r16214/dlink-dir615e4/dir615e4-firmware.bin

You can update from the interface.

[gregwee]

Unfortunately, the DIR-615 does NOT have "Repeater Bridge" mode since it has an Atheros chip.  See available Atheros settings at: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Atheros/ath_wireless_settings

The work around is by using "Client Bridge" for the ath0 interface, which logs into the existing AP, then create a Virtual AP (ath0.1 interface)that is "Bridged" to the the ath0 interface.  I followed the settings in the post at: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=39507

[Lego]

Pls. help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have read the guidelines on flashing or upgrading firmware dlink dir 615. 3.03ww c2
What i did is first use emergency 192.168.0.1 and install ddwrt factory.bin then im satisfied in speed but im upgrade it again to ddwrt .bin and it became slower so what i did is to restore

i follow the steps i use again the emergency 192.168.0.1 then install the 3.03ww c2 .bin that is copy from my original or was taken from original setting.
but what happen after it completed installing to 100% the router stopped working the wifi and ethernet has totally stopped only the dlink name light is on.
i think its my fault for i get the .bin file from my original setting and wasnt from dlink latest firmware.
so how can i use emergency room again or inject a new .bin to work function the router again.
the ethernet cord from pc to router is not detected and no wifi. reset button also dont work it dont blink. as in only dlink name in router body is light on. i cant speak english that fluent.
pls understand me english and post a steps for defaulting my router to good again. this kind of fault(wrong .bin or the install was let say not completed or something happen during installation or during installation there is blackout) or should i return it to store and they the one repair it? it has warranty for 1 year i think and its new i bought it last three weeks.

[Skello]

How did you save the original .bin?! I don't think you can do that. When you do backup from the interface, you're not saving the entire firmware, but only your settings, which you can later restore. So, the .bin that results from backup is not for flashing purposes. It's for restoring settings.

Now, back to your problem. I understood that you have a DIR-615 C2 router, which you flashed to DD-WRT and now you want to return to the factory firmware, but you can't get into the emergency room again?

You can get your original 3.03WW from here: http://tsd.dlink.com.tw/temp/PMD/4368/DIR615C2_FW303WWB05.rar

You will find the .bin inside. Or you can get the latest North American version for C2 from here: ftp://ftp.dlink.com/Gateway/dir615_revC/Firmware/dir615_revC_FW_313NA.zip

To access the Emergency Room Web interface follow these steps:

Unplug the router's power cord and wait 20 seconds.
Push the RESET button and KEEP IT PRESSED.
Connect the power cord back (while still keeping the reset button pressed)
Keep the reset button pressed for an additional 5 seconds after connecting power cord and then release. At this point you should see the power button blinking orange.
Connect over a WIRED connection to the router and set your network adapter IP MANUALLY to 192.168.0.2
Open http://192.168.0.1 in a browser, preferably Internet Explorer 7 or 8. You should see a white page with a Browse and Upload button.
Let the countdown go down to 0 and after your router reboots (the power button goes green) set your network adapter back to AUTOMATICALLY detect IP address.

[Lego]

i think its bricked. i cant do what you told me the router dont respond in reset.
i have flash the wrong firmware. pls give me steps on how to solve a bricked router.
what is dlink dir 615 subnet for ping? how to do ping? i dont know how to ping!
what if the host is unreachable is that means my router is dead?

[Scott_D]

I banged my head against the wall trying over and over with my C1. No matter which method I tried it would not work.

Then I changed browsers from Safari to Firefox and it worked the first time!

So, if you're on a Mac, try using Firefox.

[NYCSavage]

Hi, I am having a few problems with this and was hoping someone somewhere could help.

1st DIR-615 D4:
Connected to modem, using D-Link v1.00VG (Virgin F/W )
IP 192.168.0.1
SUBNET 255.255.255.0
GATEWAY 192.168.0.1
DCHP Enabled starting 100 through to 150
SSID NYCSavage
WPA2 Personal: *************

2nd DIR-615 D4:
Hardwired to upstairs base unit using DD-WRT F/W 02-17-11-r16214
IP 192.168.0.120
SUBNET 255.255.255.0
GATEWAY 192.168.0.1
LOCAL DNS 192.168.0.1
Auto DHCP
STP disabled
DHCP Server enabled starting 200 through to 245
Wireless Mode Repeater Bridge
Wireless Network Name NYCSavage
WPA2 Personal: ************* (same as main router)
Virtual Interfaces added named Upstairs
WPA2 Personal: ************* (same as main router)

I then went to Status, Wireless, Site Survey, Join and selected the main router for connection which it then said Joined.

The problem is that if I connect to the repeater router via wireless, I am connected, my network and sharing centre say I have access to the Internet, but no pages load (they keep timing out)

If I disable my wireless and connect to the repeater router via ethernet, then I have zero internet access. If I click the networking troubleshooter, it says
Quote:
The DNS server may be experiemcing problems. Windows Help and Support can provide more information about DNS.


If I click next, I get a summary stating
Quote:
Your DNS server might be unavailable


What can I do to rectify this? What am I doing wrong? Can anyone help?

Thank you for your time

[NYCSavage]

No matter, I reset secondary router, followed these instructions: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Repeater_Bridge and it now works perfect

[LaneyEFC]

Was wondering how i got back to my old firmware, ive tried these steps:

Unplug the router's power cord and wait 20 seconds.
Get a pin, push the RESET button and KEEP IT PRESSED.
Connect the power cord back (while still keeping the reset button pressed)
Keep the reset button pressed for an additional 5 seconds after connecting power cord and then release. At this point you should see the power button blinking orange.
Connect over a WIRED connection to the router and set your network adapter IP MANUALLY to 192.168.0.2
Open http://192.168.0.1 in a browser. You should see a white page with a Browse and Upload button.

but am not familiar with static ip so i thought i might of been able to skip that part but alls im getting is internet diagnostic unable to load page, any help?

thanks