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[vadeltachi]

Whos to say the Rev A wouldn't. I don't know. Were not privy to the differences between Revs and most of that is DLink I.P. Somethings like UI features and IPv6 have been made public. What goes on behind the scenes is up to DLink.

Yours is Rev B right? I presume in most cases like this in a congested area, that any router could and possibly exhibit the same problems, Just comes down to how the routers are configured and how well the Mfrs developed them to handle situations like this. Over all, interference will play a major part in any electronic device.

I don't know the entire situation of the link you posted and could be similar situation or totally different. Many variables can contribute to router function and dis-function. Not saying routers are 100% at fault. Other issues help to contribute to the router to exhibit problems and make it seem like it's the routers fault, when it's not.

Any chance you can take your router to a friends house or family member and connect it up for a test? Need to see if you can isolate this problem and see if it tracks. Hopefully you have some where other that your place to test. One way to see if the router and work well else where or not.  

You could try the FW update however I don't think it would help in this case. My 2 cents.

Thank you for you great suggestions and help!

I had both the A and B versions of the same router. The A worked for about 2 years without a hitch, and I took it to my office and it's there now still working well. So, what I can to is switch them again and see if there are any similar issues. 

I also have trouble with the web interface as noted in the other thread (sometimes the router does not respond at all to a request and I have only been able to see the wireless clients twice ). Most of the time something must be hanging on that screen or perhaps that's related to my issues?

To be sure, I never so much as touched the A version -- just plugged it in, set my SSID and PSK and it worked fine.

[FurryNutz]

Would be interesting to see what happens if you swap routers. Would be a good test. Let us know what happens.

[angryfatboy]

Call Dlink, send it back, and get a new one.  Did the same thing to me.  Wasn't as bad when I upgrade the firmware but still had the same problem.  No wireless signal at all, still had internet but not broadcasting.  Finally, I hooked it up to another router to handle the DHCP and internet connection.  Used the DIR-655 as wireless access point only and it worked fine.

[FurryNutz]

His problem surrounds external interferences by congestion of other wifi routers.

[vadeltachi]

Believe it or not, and I am spooked to write this, the router has been very stable lately with no care and feeding from me. I haven't touched it, or changed anything, and it's been fine with all my gear. So stable, in fact, that I didn't need to swap the older version at my office for the new one here at home.

Maybe it was all that solar / sunspot activity earlier this month?

In any case, thank all of you for your help -- valuable, timely and much appreciated!

[FurryNutz]

You might want to save off the routers configuration to file to be safe.
Still would be a good test to swap routers and see. 

[slpip]

Don't use auto channel.  Set either channel 11 or channel 1.  Mine is version A4.  I use firmware 1.31RU or 1.31EU for my US model.

[vadeltachi]

Don't use auto channel.  Set either channel 11 or channel 1.  Mine is version A4.  I use firmware 1.31RU or 1.31EU for my US model.

I think you are right. I've locked onto channel 1 and have had no problems since.  I also dumped the QoS and a few other things (including B support), but there are so many variables, it's really hard to know what did what.

I also monitored local wifi traffic and discovered some odd stuff happening, but I don't live too far from the CIA HQ and we all know that funky stuff comes and goes from there.

[FurryNutz]

Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using teamviewer. If your interested.

[StarTrekRedneck]

I'm having exactly the same issue. I had this router for several months with no trouble (Hardware B1, Firmware 2.00NA). From the beginning, I used this router only as a WAP plugged into a switch. I've never had a router just stop broadcasting the wireless signal completely. I've seen trouble with some cheaper (Belkin) routers need rebooting occasionally, but the signal is there. All my wired devices continue to function normally, including those plugged into this router's switch, but all laptops and smartphones cannot see the wifi signal until the reboot. From this series of posts, I'm manually setting it to Channel 1 and will see if that changes things. Thanks for the discussion.

[FurryNutz]

What wireless modes are you using?
Try single mode G or mixed G and N?
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/Auto TPIK and AES.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Use InSSIDer to find out.
Turn off Short GI and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

[podfish]

I'm using a 651, but another thread suggested that this is the correct forum for it.

anyway,  I also have a lot of drops. I'm now going through the various options. One thing I notice is that my firmware is 1.00 and 1.10 is available. The abbreviated notes that are available say it addresses the "hardware NAT" problem.  However, others have suggested avoiding unnecessary flashes of the firmware.  So does anyone know if this is a worthwhile upgrade to try, or should I wait till all else fails before updating?

[FurryNutz]

Lets try some troubleshooting first then maybe we'll have to update FW later.

What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.

Some things to try:
Ensure DNS IP addresses are being filled in under Setup/Internet/Manual? You can find these under Status/Device Info/Wan section.
Turn off ALL QoS (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices on the router. Setup/Networking
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP.

What wireless modes are you using?
Try single mode G or mixed G and N?
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/Auto TPIK and AES.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Use InSSIDer to find out.
Turn off Short GI and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.

Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Cat6 is recommended.

[StarTrekRedneck]

Success! It's been nearly a week now and not once has the wireless network disappeared, which was becoming increasingly frequent (it had gotten to every day).

What I changed...
I disabled the Auto Channel Scan and set the wireless channel to 1.

Stuff that has not changed...
I have always operated in mixed G and N
Security mode has always been WPA2 (only) using the AES cypher type
Short GI and WMM remain enabled (under Advanced -> Advanced Wireless)
Connected wireless devices have always been an iPhone4, a Motorola Atrix 4G (android), and an HP laptop running Win 7 64 home. For a short time there was also an old hp laptop running XP home, but it's stationary now and uses a wired connection. And on occasion we may have a house guest that would like wireless internet access, so I've set that up as well. That has not happened shortly before or since this trouble began.
We have 1 cordless phone, but it's presence and location have been the same for probably a year, which predates the problem by a lot.
We live in a housing neighborhood and I can see weak signals from our neighbors. This has been the case for years, but *it is very possible that a neighbor got a new router*.
The DIR-655 is functioning only as a WAP (DHCP Server is disabled) and is connected to a gigabit switch via Cat6 cable. The switch is connected to a WRT54G running DDWRT with its wireless network disabled (functioning as a gateway and router only, no wireless activity).

It seems apparent that the issue is connected with the Auto Channel Scan feature of this particular router. Perhaps a neighbor started up a new router that invoked this problem, but as I understand it, that's the whole point of the Auto Channel Scan feature...to automatically find the best channel in a multi-router environment. If other routers are breaking this, well that's just stupid, isn't it? :-)

Cheers!

[FurryNutz]

Glad you go it going.
You can turn off SHORT GI.

Were seeing more and more issues in areas of wifi congestion and having channels being used up and interferences with these routers. Even though it could be a router issue, it's more of a external environment issue than any thing. Glad you found a channel that works. I would save the routers configuration to file so if you have to do a factory reset and want to put it back to AP mode, just reload the file. Enjoy.