Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Ned]

I previously had a DIR-655 A2 router and it worked very well.  Wireless connections were very fast.  When my backup router (a Linksys) died, I bought a new DIR-655 B1 model and put it in service.  I configured it exactly the same as the A2 model.  Immediately all wireless connections slowed to at least 1/10 the previous speed.  Opening a shared folder on another, wired, computer took up to a minute or more whereas before it opened instantly.  Even internet access seemed slower.  After checking everything else possibly related over the past few months, today I put the old (A2) model back in service and everything was back to full speed.

Also, although I have the Time settings configured the same in both routers, the A2 model gets the right time while the B1 fails to account for DST.  With the A2, logs were emailed to me daily as configured, but the B1 model never sent a single log file.  The B1 hardware definitely has serious problems.

Yes, I have the latest firmware, 2.03NA.

[FurryNutz]

Hmm my B1 is working flawlessly on v2.03.
Try inputting a manual NTP server like time.nist.gov if your located in the U.S.
What region are you located?
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?

What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.

Some things to try:
Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking.

Wireless Installation Considerations
What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Use InSSIDer to find out.
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Turn off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.

Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Cat6 is recommended.

[Ned]

Hmm my B1 is working flawlessly on v2.03.
Try inputting a manual NTP server like time.nist.gov if your located in the U.S.

Did that, no difference in the time.  The time is not the major problem.

What region are you located?

We live in our motorhome and have been from Texas to Wisconsin, but it's not related to location.

Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?

My desktop is wired and I have tested wired to other computers and the speed is fine.  It's only the wireless connections that have such a low speed problem.

What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?

The problem is unrelated to the ISP.  It's there for both the fiber internet we use in TX and the HughesNet satellite we use when on the road.

What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?

See previous for ISP info.  Router is the D-Link.

What ISP Modem make and model do you have?

Irrelevant.

If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.

Irrelevant, see above.

Some things to try:
Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking.

Tried all of the above.  No difference.  Again, I use the exact same configuration for the A2 model as for the B1 and the A2 is as fast as I expect it to be.  I will not enable uPnP for security reasons.  Multi-cast streaming is not a factor.

What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel.

Tried all of the above, no difference.

What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.

WPA-Personal, AES.  All devices connect, it's just the speed that suffers.  Again, the exact same configuration on the A2 model works flawlessly.

What wireless devices do you have connected?

Toshiba notebook, MSI netbook, iPad, Kindle Fire, Kindle 3, sometimes my Droid Bionic.  All suffer the same speed loss on the B1 but not on the A2.

Any cordless house phones?

No, just cell phones.

Any other WiFi routers in the area? Use InSSIDer to find out.

Of course, but they don't seem to affect the A2 model.  And all devices are within 15 feet of the D-Link.

Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Turn off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Done all that, no difference.

Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.

Again, wired connections run at full speed, it's only the wireless devices that are suffering.  It's not the firewalls as, again, the A2 model works as expected with the same configuration.

Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Cat6 is recommended.

This has nothing to do with the internet connection, it's between the router and the wireless devices.

Again, let me emphasize that the A2 router with the exact same configuration as the B1 works flawlessly.  It's definitely a problem in MY B1 model.

[FurryNutz]

How many other WiFi routers are near by you?
And you did try setting a single mode G the N to test while setting a manual channel to a clear and unused channel?

Even doing a factory reset and re-configuring the Wifi?

Ok then, maybe you should contact DLink support and ask about your B1 router. Might need to be RMAd.

Hmm my B1 is working flawlessly on v2.03.
Try inputting a manual NTP server like time.nist.gov if your located in the U.S.

Did that, no difference in the time.  The time is not the major problem.

What region are you located?

We live in our motorhome and have been from Texas to Wisconsin, but it's not related to location.

Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?

My desktop is wired and I have tested wired to other computers and the speed is fine.  It's only the wireless connections that have such a low speed problem.

What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?

The problem is unrelated to the ISP.  It's there for both the fiber internet we use in TX and the HughesNet satellite we use when on the road.

What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?

See previous for ISP info.  Router is the D-Link.

What ISP Modem make and model do you have?

Irrelevant.

If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.

Irrelevant, see above.

Some things to try:
Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking.

Tried all of the above.  No difference.  Again, I use the exact same configuration for the A2 model as for the B1 and the A2 is as fast as I expect it to be.  I will not enable uPnP for security reasons.  Multi-cast streaming is not a factor.

What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel.

Tried all of the above, no difference.

What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.

WPA-Personal, AES.  All devices connect, it's just the speed that suffers.  Again, the exact same configuration on the A2 model works flawlessly.

What wireless devices do you have connected?

Toshiba notebook, MSI netbook, iPad, Kindle Fire, Kindle 3, sometimes my Droid Bionic.  All suffer the same speed loss on the B1 but not on the A2.

Any cordless house phones?

No, just cell phones.

Any other WiFi routers in the area? Use InSSIDer to find out.

Of course, but they don't seem to affect the A2 model.  And all devices are within 15 feet of the D-Link.

Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Turn off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Done all that, no difference.

Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.

Again, wired connections run at full speed, it's only the wireless devices that are suffering.  It's not the firewalls as, again, the A2 model works as expected with the same configuration.

Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Cat6 is recommended.

This has nothing to do with the internet connection, it's between the router and the wireless devices.

Again, let me emphasize that the A2 router with the exact same configuration as the B1 works flawlessly.  It's definitely a problem in MY B1 model.

[Ned]

How many other WiFi routers are near by you?
And you did try setting a single mode G the N to test while setting a manual channel to a clear and unused channel?

Doesn't matter, the problem was there even when there were no other access points around.

Even doing a factory reset and re-configuring the Wifi?

Several times.

Ok then, maybe you should contact DLink support and ask about your B1 router. Might need to be RMAd.

That's what I've concluded.  It's only 6 months old.

Thanks for trying to help.

[FurryNutz]

Let us know what happens with DLink Support, good luck.

[Ned]

Thanks, I've sent an email via the contact form pointing them to this topic for the details.

[Ned]

First reply from support showed they didn't really read the original problem report and just sent a canned response with a recommendation to upgrade to the 2.07NA firmware.  I replied asking if there was any reason I shouldn't use the saved configuration from the 2.03NA firmware and received yet another canned reply on how to configure the router and no answer to my question.

I'll try the later firmware, but from the reports I've read, it's likely to cause more problems than it may solve.  I think it's apparent the problem is hardware, but I'll give it a try anyway, next week when I have time.

[FurryNutz]

Try loading 2.03NA over itself. Look at the FW upate sticky in the FAQ. You can try v2.07 however it breaks
Shareport.

[Ned]

Ok, I'll try that first.  I don't need Shareport for now, but will want it for an external HD.

[david1012]

Not sure it's the same problem, but when I had a problem with my wireless, I ended up doing a factory reset, reloading the 2.03NA firmware and manually reconfiguring everything from scratch (i.e. don't upload .bin configuration file).  Have you tried that?  Good luck.

[Ned]

Not sure it's the same problem, but when I had a problem with my wireless, I ended up doing a factory reset, reloading the 2.03NA firmware and manually reconfiguring everything from scratch (i.e. don't upload .bin configuration file).  Have you tried that?  Good luck.

Well, the problem has been there since I bought the modem last winter.  I did configure it from scratch at that time.  The wireless has always been slow.

[Ned]

Today I upgraded the B1 router to the 2.07NA firmware and configured the router again.  The wireless speed is still extremely slow.  A 66MB file that copies from my wired desktop to my wireless laptop takes <10 secs. on my A2 router and took nearly 5 minutes with the B1.  Also, the time is off by 1 hour as the router is not adjusting for DST.  The logs are still not being send according to the schedule.  Neither of those problems is present in the A2 model.

One nice feature of the B1 is that the configuration files is now in plain text and not binary as in the A2, so you can read it.

I've requested an RMA and hopefully, it's a manufacturing defect and not a design defect.

[FurryNutz]

Let us know how it goes.

Yes, it's nice to vew the plain text of Rev B routers. 

[Ned]

Just talked to tech support on the phone and I am expecting an email with the RMA information.