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[tbresson]

Hi forum!

I've recently run into some trouble with my otherwize trusted router which I've had for years.
I had noticed I started loosing my connection to the Internet and I thought perhaps someone tried to gain access. With all the hacking going on in the world I decided to go through my router and see if any improvements to security could be made and I changed a few things. I did however not find any evidence of attack or similar and the disconnects seem to be more and more often.

My previous firmware was the 1.31EU for the A model which I've run for a long time since the interface doesn't say there's a newer version of the firmware (I found that here). After the troubles I came here and tried firmware updating to version 1.37EU. I still have the same issue. (I followed the firmware guide on this forum to be sure I did everything by the book).

The log does have this warning when the router starts: [WARN]: Wireless schedule init
I don't know what it means and I don't use schedules. I think it might have occured after I looked at the schedule section of the router but I didn't add anything but I can't be sure.

I have disabled the SPI firewall since some people think it can create problems but that haven't changed anything.

All my devices use DHCP and are registered by MAC address. This I've been doing for a long time. I did try and only enable those devices on the network but decided to disabled it yesterday to see if that change had anything to do with my disconnets but it appears it doesn't.

My Internet connection was disabled when I came home from x-mas holiday which suggests my computer, laptop, tablet and phone isn't a part of the problem. My TV, my BluRay player, my printer and my Chromecast are the devices left but they are all turned off. The only online thing left on the network is my NAS. The logs on the NAS doesn't say anything (other than the link is up/down) and I've turned off access from the outside to it and it doesn't replicate large amount of data to the Internet nor does it run anything like BitTorrent and it runs the latest firmware. Of course I might try and disconnect all devices for a period of time and see if the problem persists but mean while I thought I'd post my issue here.

Oh and the router is where it's always been and no new equipment has been placed nearby to mess up signals or similar.

Hope you can help and thanks!

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What region are you located?
• Has a Factory Reset been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

FW Update Process

• Was the router working before any firmware updates?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials

[tbresson]

Link>Welcome!
Tnx!

• What region are you located?

DK/EU

• Has a Factory Reset been performed?

Yes

• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

FW Update Process
Yes

• Was the router working before any firmware updates?

Yes, but it did have the issue.

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?

Neither. It's a city line .. sort of. Haven't heard of the equivalent in the US.

• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?

No modem. Direct plug into the router from the wall.

• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?

Static IP.

• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?

Insane speeds. Nothing advertised.

• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.

No modem. All devices looses connection so no cable issue from device.

• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values

MTU is 1500 and has always been. Nothing has been changed here.

• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

I'm not sure where that setting is if it exists on my router.

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.
No ISP modem. No changes on the hardware side for several years. Restarting the router always result in an Internet connection without problems.

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.

It's been changed.

• What wireless modes are you using?

Mixed n/g/b

• 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.

20 MHz

• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.

Problem occurs with cable to the router.

• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.

WPA2, AES

• What wireless devices do you have connected?

Phone, Tablet, TV, BluRay player, Chromecast

• Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.

All devices have been tested and are up2date.

• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?

No.

• Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.

Lots. Don't have any Wi-Fi issues.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials

Nothing's changed here.

[FurryNutz]

I recommend that you try connecting the cable from the wall directly in to a PC and see if you exhibit the same issues. If both WiFi and wired connections are having problems, I would have the ISP check there signal up to the wall out let and make sure it's good. If our seeing disconnections with out the router online then this could be a ISP service issue.

Also having other WiFi neighbors around can be a cause of interferences as well.

[tbresson]

Hi. After putting the WAN cable in my machine directly I haven't experienced any problems.
I found the invoice and it seems I got the router way back in oct. 2010 so perhaps it's paid it's dues.

[FurryNutz]

I would try a factory reset, reload FW file, factory reset the router once more then set up from scratch using default settings and run the router for a while.

You might set channel on 2.4ghz to 13 and test as well...