Hi, I just wanted to say first that I'm new here and I used this helpful forum (especially FurryNutz) in making my decision to purchase a DIR-655 a few months back in preparation for adding second Xbox 360 console to my home network.
Please see my answers in bold for a few questions I'm sure will be asked:
•What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
B1•Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
2.00•What region are you located?
UK (Europe)•Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Both•Has a Factory Reset been performed?
Yes•Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
N/A >FW Update Process
•Was the router working before any firmware updates?
N/AInternet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
•What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
DSL•What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Sky Hub SR101•Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
Dynamic•What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
1/17•Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
•Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
•For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy
•Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
•What wireless modes are you using?
•2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
•Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
•Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
•What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
•What wireless devices do you have connected?
•Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
•Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
•Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
•If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Before I added the second console, I didn't have any problems with NAT status EXCEPT on one or two occasions, Halo 4 would report strict or moderate NAT but a router reboot would fix this immediately.
Since adding the second console, Halo 4 has shown an unpredictable variety of NAT states ranging from strict to open on both consoles with no apparent reasoning or pattern. I must add - this hasn't noticeably affected the gameplay (perhaps matchmaking has sometimes taken a little longer) and the Xbox network test itself has NEVER highlighted any NAT issues on either console, just XBL service alerts.
My 'modem' is my ISP supplied wireless router, where I have setup the WAN default DMZ in order that the DIR-655 handles the routing etc. The 'modem' has DHCP server and Wi-Fi disabled. I have setup the DIR-655 QoS rules etc as per FurryNutz sticky.
Any ideas what I should do? Thank you
