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[FurryNutz]

Good to hear man. Glad it's working for you. Ya I think a factory reset and setup from scratch ON the router is best. Also hard powering OFF the xbox and PS to clear out all networking caches and clear uPnP ports is recommended as well. Set IP address reservations for them as well.

I think you'll be fine here on out. Just know that if you have same game playing on same consoles, like CoD mostly, In game NAT will not be OPEN for both. Nature of the beast with D-Link routers. Gaming should be good though.

[twisted_mind]

Thanks Furry
More than a week in. Multiple cold-boots of both consoles and the NAT stays Open on both.
I must also say the router no longer freezes overnight(losing internet connection) randomly. I used to have that at least once every 3-4 days.
Since I was so happy I also gave Smart Connect a shot. And it has worked absolutely flawlessly.
Anyone here who has problems like I did, just factory reset this thing twice and set it up manually from scratch.
And thank you once again a ton Furry. I was about to jump ship to another brand but your persistence saved me like a $100

[FurryNutz]

Glad to be of help and work with you to figure it all out. Glad it's working well for you.

Enjoy. 

[twisted_mind]

Hey Furry
As an expert in this field, how do you suggest the orientation (angles) of the 4 antennae?
Right now I have the rear two pointed away like a V shape and the side antennae angled at 45 degrees each away from the router? My home is a single-storey apartment.

[FurryNutz]

Angle for multi story home, vertical for single level home:
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations

[GreenBay42]

If you are in a single story, have all antennas vertical.

[twisted_mind]

Thanks again furry and greenbay

Does smart connect have some kind of learning it does initially? The first 2 days or so my phones and laptops would fall back to 2.4ghz even when sitting right in front of the router. But they all seem to have smartened up of sorts LoL since. All’s dandy now

[FurryNutz]

Not really. Between the router which provides the signal and platform for devices to connect to mostly, it's the devices whom determine which frequency to connect too, based on support, noise, signal and strength. The router just provides the signals and helps getting devices to connect and steers them in the right directly. It's up to the device to make the choice.

[twisted_mind]

Thanks Furry
Sorry to bump an old thread. Does this 878 support gigabit Internet? I’m getting it and couldn’t find any info if the WAN port supports it. I’m planning to use the isp Fiber modem as a dumb pass through device in bridge mode and let the 878 do the pppoe stuff. That’s how I’m set up right now for my vdsl connection.

[GreenBay42]

The 878 actually has pretty good throughput so you should get close to 1 Gbps speeds (Ethernet). 

Most WAN to LAN tests I have seen are betweek 941 - 925Mbps.

https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/charts/router/bar/179-wan-to-lan-tcp/35

[twisted_mind]

Thanks Greenbay
So on 5Ghz wifi I can expect over 900mbps is it?

[twisted_mind]

Found at the bottom of the product page on the Dlink website this indeed supports gigabit internet so Yayy

[FurryNutz]

If you have a client device that supports 1000Mbps or higher connection rate speeds then maybe. Most current wifi devices max out at around 400-500Mbps on thruput speed tests. Some devices that support 160Mhz and connect at 1733Mbps, then you may see speeds near 900Mpbs on 5Ghz WiFi thruput speeds.

I didn't get a chance to test the 878 WAN to LAN wired when I had mine. I presume it should support WAN to LAN speeds near 900Mbps. My 882 does.

Thanks Greenbay
So on 5Ghz wifi I can expect over 900mbps is it?

[twisted_mind]

Aha thanks Furry.
I’m old-school so hardwire the consoles and desktop. All Cat6 cables so that’s covered too

[FurryNutz]