D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: cherritaker on December 25, 2010, 11:31:59 PM
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I recently purchased a dir 655 router and it works fine but in after a while of using it, the wifi signal will stop broadcasting my other computers still work with the internet that are hard wired but the ones im using through the wifi signal will loose connection. So my fix has been unplugging the router and plugging it back in then it will broadcast my wifi again. I tryed leaving it plugged in and refreshing and rebooting my computers but that wont fix it until i disconnect the router and plug it back in if someone can help me out i would appreciate it.
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What wireless mode are you using? Mixed? Try G Mode only at 2.4GHz and no password for security for a test. If it keeps going, add security WPA2 with a password and test again.
What are your highest wireless modes that our devices use? if you don't have anything that uses A or B then using G only or Mixed G and N for any N devices will allow the router to just broadcast those modes. Theres no need to broadcasting modes if you don't have anything that uses them.
If the wireless fails at G mode only then you might have a bad unit.
Let us know how it goes.
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I HAVE EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM!!! VERY ANNOYING!!!!
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I'm having the same problem. I just purchased a DIR-655 Version B with F/W 2.0, so I presume it's DL's latest and greatest. I have it set for b/g/n (which I need to support smartphones and new laptops), always on (no schedules), auto channel scan, auto tx rate, 20MHz width, visible, WPA-personal, WPA2-only, AES encryption, firewall on (SPI and anti-spoof on), WISH inactive, WPS disabled, no filters set up. Everything was working great and I was getting great signal everywhere in my home (-55 to -75dBm).
About two days after configuring it and getting on the air (4-wired and 2 to 4 b/g/n wireless devices), the wireless radio just stopped - a Wi-Fi analyzer picked up about 3 nearby networks with signal strengths of -100 dBm or worse, but zip from this router. All wired devices were all still connected with each other and the Internet. I did a power reset of the router and the wireless connections were all restored. After another 24 hours it stopped again. This time I did a reset from the Admin (web) port and again all wireless connections were restored. This scenario now repeats itself regularly every few hours or so. I performed a complete reset and reconfigured all my settings manually and that has NOT made any difference. The other thing I noticed is that the DIR-655 keeps forgetting the time and date.
The router is sitting on a shelf away from any other sources of heat or interference. I had taken the extra precaution to raise it up a little to ensure adequate ventilation through the (very tiny) slots in the base of the unit. All antennas are installed and positioned properly.
I hope someone responds soon with a fix for this problem or it's going back ASAP. Barring that, any advice/recommendations for a competitive b/g/n unit that works reliably will be welcomed. I don't have time to babysit this or any other router!!!
EDIT: D-Link support had me re-flash the F/W (still 2.0), set WPA mode to auto (WPA & WPA2), cypher to TKIP and AES, and leave everything else default. Wants me to call if it happens again.
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My parents having the same thing with Rev B. I have mode set to Wireless N only, wireless channel 11 (used Wifi Analyzer to see Channel 11 was strongest in their house) Transmission rate, Best. Width, Auto. Using WPA2 and AES. No Wish, QoS, filters, etc.
BTW I wouldn't presume it is their latest and greatest. My money is on they came out with a way to save $, not better quality.
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I was just about to buy this router and glad I read this. Take it back and get a different router I would say.
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BTW I wouldn't presume it is their latest and greatest. My money is on they came out with a way to save $, not better quality.
Could be. I was really impressed when everything worked great after I first fired it up.
I had a chance to get a vA4 but opted for the B1 thinking it should continue getting F/W updates. If the radio keeps flaking out I may not keep it long enough to find out.
I was just about to buy this router and glad I read this. Take it back and get a different router I would say.
I bought this one because I've had great luck with wired D-Link products in the past. I like the range enough on this model to exchange it ... once ... if its radio keeps nodding off.
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Is there any hardware differences with the release of revision B that are worth noting?
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Is there any hardware differences with the release of revision B that are worth noting?
Though not a hardware difference, RevB appears to have full support for IPv6. Not sure if that was in any of the RevA versions.
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Just curious if anyone and tried my recommendations and can let us know there findings? ::)
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Just curious if anyone and tried my recommendations and can let us know there findings? ::)
Can't afford to fly my network unprotected for hours. For now I've set my parameters according to what D-Link support specifically requested (see edit in my post #4). If it fails again I'll probably give an exchange a chance, and if that were to fail the same way, it'll be time to go another route(r). ;)
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It was only meant for a short test to see how it would work. I would set the WiFi mode to G only or Mixed G and N, If you don't have any devices that use A/B or N then go G mode only. Theres no need to broadcast modes that aren't being used.
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i switched it to the settings you gave me ill wait and see if it happens again .
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I am seeing the same problem with the DIR-655 (H/W Ver.: B1 F/W Ver. 2.00NA).
The router works absolutely fine for 24 hours or so. Then, the router simply stops broadcasting Wi-Fi and has to be rebooted. This happens approximately once a day. Makes it useless to me.
What I really need to know from the folks at D-Link, some of whom I hope are listening here, is there a fix?
I need to have some clarification soon, as I running out of time to return it at the store where I purchased it.
Somebody at D-Link, please let us know what is going on.
To the extent that it matters, I am not configuring the router in any unusual way. The only thing I did in the way of configuration was to set a wireless password and name the network.
I recently purchased a dir 655 router and it works fine but in after a while of using it, the wifi signal will stop broadcasting my other computers still work with the internet that are hard wired but the ones im using through the wifi signal will loose connection. So my fix has been unplugging the router and plugging it back in then it will broadcast my wifi again. I tryed leaving it plugged in and refreshing and rebooting my computers but that wont fix it until i disconnect the router and plug it back in if someone can help me out i would appreciate it.
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Exactly same thing here. I have been using this router for 3 weeks. Still struggling to figure out why...
Will try cinderbloke (#4)'s suggestion first. If not, may have to return it.
Any DLink engineer here?
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Just an Update:
Ever since I made the following changes from the default wireless configuration, I have not had any more incidents where the DIR-655 stopped broadcasting Wi-Fi:
802.11 Mode: 802.11n only
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
WPA Mode: WPA2 only
Cipher Type: AES
Seems to work very well now. (Me, keeping my fingers crossed.)
DIR-655 (H/W Ver.: B1 F/W Ver. 2.00NA)
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I've had two of these routers for a couple of months now (main and vacation home), and the router at the vacation home just started exhibiting this behavior about two days ago.
Both are: DIR-655 (H/W Ver.: B1 F/W Ver. 2.00NA)
Before this both ran without error for almost two months, and it has so many more features than my old LinkSys router (up to 24 dhcp IP address reservation, and port-forwarding entries) that I can't go back to my old LinkSys.
Symptom: The wired side stays connected just fine, but the wireless side goes down about every 3-4 hours. My work-around has been to either do a power reset, or to do a reset through the admin screens on the remaining wired connection. Luckily, the problem router can be controlled by my home automation system so I can do a powercycle remotely when I can no longer ping one of my wireless cameras.
On the problem router, a couple of things to note:
- happened only when I had over 20 different wireless endpoints connected -- everything from PCs, to Androids, to iPhones to iPads to iTouches to colorNook to wireless cameras.
- when I check the log through the admin web interface, it is empty (or at least nothing shows)
- when the wifi stops broadcasting, everything else looks normal -- such as the front panel lights and what I can see through the web admin interface (except it shows no wireless clients and the log is empty)
- now that most of the wireless devices have left the area, it has been running for over 12 hours. So, it could be correlated to one of the devices that was connecting to it. Some of the PCs may have been running various firewalls and the various devices like iPhones, Androids, and Nooks tend to connect/disconnect frequently -- so I don't know if there is some ecosystem cause/effect.
When I compare the config.bin files for both routers. below I note the differences -- I won't be able to do play with this as I won't be back to my problem router for a couple of weeks:
hostname=DIR-655 (this is just the first line in the config.bin file)
...
dhcpd_netbios_enable=1 (this is set to 0 on the router without the issue)
dhcpd_netbios_learn=1 (this is set to 0 on the router without the issue)
...
wan_specify_dns=1 (this is set to 0 on the router without the issue)
wan_primary_dns=204.194.232.200 (this is set to 0.0.0.0 on the router without the issue)
wan_secondary_dns=204.194.234.200 (this is set to 0.0.0.0 on the router without the issue)
...
wish_engine_enabled=1 (this is set to 0 on the router without the issue)
....
anti_spoof_check=1 (this is set to 0 on the router without the issue)
...
wlan0_dot11_mode=11gn (this is set to 11bgn on the router without the issue)
...
wlan0_11n_protection=20 (this is set to auto on the router without the issue)
...
opendns_enable=1 (this is set to 0 on the router without the issue)
...
Since the problem router was running fine with the same settings as shown above for 2 months (only difference is that I added several additional dhcpd_reserve and port_forward_both entries), I am not convinced it has anything to do with the settings.
Could it be one of the endpoints? Many of the same wireless endpoints were also running at my main home (but not all at the same time) before they created a perfect storm at my second home and the wifi started to have issues.
So, my bet is that either my router went bad, or there is something about some of the endpoints that caused the router to have issues. If the wifi continues to run fine without all the endpoints present then I can probably rule out the bad router -- but only time will tell on this one.
If this is the case, then perhaps one of the endpoints caused the wireless part of the router to misbehave ... somewhere in this forum today I found another thread that indicted some firewall software causing a similar issue.
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You might want to contact DLink support if the wifi fails to maintain broadcast even if using simple G mode only at 2.4Ghz with out a password.
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My DIR-655 (Hardware B1, Firmware 2.00NA) recently did exactly the same thing. Just stopped broadcasting Wi-Fi and it needed to be rebooted (or turn on and off Wi-Fi in the setup). And this after months of no problems. Quite annoying.
I will try the recommended changes (G only instead of G + N) and see how it will work out.
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Let us know how it goes. Curious on whats going on with these units.
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an update to my router issues --
My router's wifi stopped multiple times last week but now that most of the many wifi endpoints present over the weekend have left, the wifi is running flawlessly for almost 48 hrs. I made no configuration changes -- only did a power on/off reset. The only difference is that fewer wifi endpoints are present (the endpoints currently present are several netcams).
This behavior supports the theory that something about the endpoint(s) causes the problem...
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after 3 years. my dir-655 stopped sending a wifi signal last week.
it was good while it lasted, but just ordered a RT-N16, and will flash with TomatoUSB.
bye d-link!
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an update to my router issues --
This behavior supports the theory that something about the endpoint(s) causes the problem...
Or it could be an issue with stress/overheating of some component(s) related to wireless.
BTW, I've never had more than 4 simultaneous wireless clients.
I set it to "n" only and it failed again last night (although for some reason it still reported a connection to a "g" client). Instead of rebooting it I decided to just leave it alone. Can't be sure when it happened, but it came back on its own ... which could support a cool-off and recovery of the affected components. Then again, I suppose it's also possible that the unit eventually crashed and rebooted itself at which point the Wi-Fi radio restarted.
It bothers me that this problem has occurred with many other users. I am going to try to exchange it for another unit later this week. If this behavior continues with that unit, I'll have to try another vendor's router.
Question to anyone: What is D-Link's RMA policy? Do I have to send my unit back before they'll send me a replacement (so I'm off the air until they respond), or will they send a replacement with a shipper to return the original, or ...?
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So did you do any troubleshooting to see what was the cause of the WiFi? Reset, power cycle? Try Single mode G only @ 2.4Ghz? Any other WiFi in the area? Good luck.
after 3 years. my dir-655 stopped sending a wifi signal last week.
it was good while it lasted, but just ordered a RT-N16, and will flash with TomatoUSB.
bye d-link!
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I believe you have to send them your unit then they will send you one back. I notice people have done this and gone to places like best buy, bought a temp router to use while they wait.
Or it could be an issue with stress/overheating of some component(s) related to wireless.
BTW, I've never had more than 4 simultaneous wireless clients.
I set it to "n" only and it failed again last night (although for some reason it still reported a connection to a "g" client). Instead of rebooting it I decided to just leave it alone. Can't be sure when it happened, but it came back on its own ... which could support a cool-off and recovery of the affected components. Then again, I suppose it's also possible that the unit eventually crashed and rebooted itself at which point the Wi-Fi radio restarted.
It bothers me that this problem has occurred with many other users. I am going to try to exchange it for another unit later this week. If this behavior continues with that unit, I'll have to try another vendor's router.
Question to anyone: What is D-Link's RMA policy? Do I have to send my unit back before they'll send me a replacement (so I'm off the air until they respond), or will they send a replacement with a shipper to return the original, or ...?
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FYI: I am seeing the same benaviour as cinderbloke. The Wifi stops broadcasting but will recover on its own after a while.
Is anybody at Dlink looking at this issue?
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What happens if you switch from Mixed mode to Single Mode G only at 2.4GHz.
Let us know.
FYI: I am seeing the same benaviour as cinderbloke. The Wifi stops broadcasting but will recover on its own after a while.
Is anybody at Dlink looking at this issue?
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I changed to G only. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Looks like I am not the only one who got this problem...
Just got my D-link setup for about a week, and the wifi stop broadcasting every 2 days or so and I had already reboot it 3 times. All my computers could not find the router's SSID and the wifi light on the router still blinking. After reboot everything works again.
Someone mentioned that it might be because of overheat, however if it is the case rebooting the router should not cool it down to the working temperature immediately...
Hope someone from D-link would able to figure out the cause and give out a solution.
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Ever since I made the following changes from the default wireless configuration, I have not had any more incidents where the DIR-655 stopped broadcasting Wi-Fi:
802.11 Mode: 802.11n only
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
WPA Mode: WPA2 only
Cipher Type: AES
Yeah this seemed to help my situation the most. Though I STILL get that stopping of transmission. I find now that its getting THE PERFECT antenni setting that will keep my streaming netflix happy.
Oh I am using my 655 as an AP for my uverse 2wire modem/router - so I dont use its WAN port and thus none of the Qos, etc features would matter. thats my understanding anyway - that LAN to LAN doesnt get benefits from Qos settings etc.
I have read elsewhere that my 1.35 firmware is the issue and downgrading to 1.33 will resolve this stopping and starting issue. I might try that this weekend since I got nothing to loose.
I just wanted to chime in here that the changing from WPA to WPA2 was a BIG HELP for me.
The DOS-Man
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I am having the same issue with Rev B 2.00NA. Bought it about a month ago (for my mom) and it stops broadcasting a night, every night. Have tried different settings -- single channel, 20mhz only, wpa with tkip, etc. Many suggestions have been made with no success.
Went to officemax today and saw the new version -- Rev B. But the firmware version on the box said 2.02NA. Officemax had some boxes with 2.00NA. Is there a new firmware version out there for this router? I cannot find it on the website.
I have an older d-link 655 -- A3 with f/w 1.11 and have never had a problem with it. I have had it for over 2 years now.
I hope D-Link is listening, b/c they are about to lose a dedicated customer.
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What happens if you switch from Mixed mode to Single Mode G only at 2.4GHz.
Let us know.
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The Wifi seems to broadcast more stable since I changed to G only mode. Did not have any outages since I changed 2 days ago. That's the longest is has been up in a while. Before I had failures about every 24 hours.
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More to chime in about this topic............
YES, moving everything down to G from N will remove the whole stop and start issue. and if your wireless clients are NOT using streaming video then that is your quick and easy solution.
But if streaming video is your goal, moving down to G only changes the irritation from stop and start to blotchy frames once or twice a minute.
However I did find a solution. There is a catch though. your wireless receiving counterparts to your DIR 655 broadcasts will have to have the ability to do DRAFT N adjustments.
I made the following change last night to both sides of my wireless "bridge" and the issue of start and stop went away without my need to play with the antennas once!!!
1. I enabled FRAME BURST
2. I Selected 40 Mhz width for my wireless channel
before you run off and do these changes - read this: I SHOULD HAVE tried one of these by its self, but I was lazy and tired so I did not. Perhaps ONLY ONE of these is needed. I read frame burst is not recommended for those with more than 4 or 5 wireless clients. I would never have more than 2 clients (and most of the time just one) on this bridge/dir-655 AP so I went for it
Also note that I do not use auto scan for my wireless channel setting. I set the dir-655 to use one channel; the one that appears to not be in use by my 5 neighbors.
and do the same steps 1 and 2 on the other components that speak with your dir-655's wireless broadcast. (I have to confess I do not know if computers or smart device wireless settings use frame burst or if thats just for networking pieces. so dont be alarmed if you dont see it on your .11N DRAFT component). The 20 verse 40 width for your channel - I think that would be on your pc or smart device just like it is with network pieces.
If I made any mistakes in my citing of facts, corrections are wecomed.
The DOS man
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FYI: G-only mode does not fix the problem. My Wifi stopped broadcasting last night again.
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So I changed to G only, WPA personal with WPA2 + AES only and it was ok for a few days. However, today the DIR-655 stopped transmitting Wi-Fi again. So I had to go into the setup screen and uncheck and check the Enable Wireless function, hit save and then it worked again. This is really annoying.
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If this product line defective?
I am tired of having to unplug from power and then plug back in DAILY just to get the wireless to broadcast again.
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Rev B, F/W 2.00NA.
Tried G mode only once with WPA2 + AES and once with WPA + TKIP only, also with no security. Tried lots of other suggestions as posted throughout this forum. I do not use channel scan and have it set to channel 11, no one around uses this channel. Still have to unplug and restart once a day.
Is D-Link listening?
Thanks for the help. Wish I had better news.
I guess another customer has just been lost.
Good luck to all of you still fighting with this POS router.
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Sorry to say I have tried the different settings recommended on this thread and the only thing consistent is that the router still eventually and arbitrarily stops broadcasting. My local retailers are out of this model (could be a blessing) so I may wait until the last day I can return it for a full refund. I'm not about to do the RMA dance. If D-Link cares enough to post a failsafe solution or updated firmware fix before then, fine, I'll try it. Else D-Link is off my list for Wi-Fi routers. This experience has been a real disappointment.
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I would most definitely use your means of a return to the retailer if you have the chance. Seems you probably have tried different things to no avail. Good Luck.
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Just installed my 655 yesterday. Worked great for 4 hours then just stopped broadcasting. LAN still worked. Cycled power and it worked great again for a few more hours, then just stopped broadcasting. Seems I have exactly the same problem as everyone on this forum. Resituated router today away from all other electronics. Worked great for about 7 hours, then just stopped broadcasting. From the posts in this forum it sounds like there is no fix. I should just return it. Anyone found a solution that works? Unplugging every 4-6 hours isn't going to cut it. Great signal strength and reach. Easy to setup. Just a bummer.
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Are there any other WiFi in your area? What wireless connections are you connecting to the router?
What WiFi modes are you using? Try single mode G or N or Mixed mode G and N to see which one works better?
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Neighbors have 3 or 4 stations broadcasting all the time, a couple with pretty strong signals. Still using default mode on 655. Have 4 Win 7 machines and a TiVo HD connected to the 655. All receivers are using default settings. Will try single mode N and then G and then report back.
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And thanks!
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Might venture to say that having several other WiFi routers in the area can present some issues. I would also try changing channels as well and see, try 11 first and see which one helps the most. Keep us posted.
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Switched to G-only yesterday afternoon and have had no issues since. Streamed a show on Hulu from another room; perfect performance. Keeping my fingers crossed. Will try channel switching, also, if I have any more trouble. Am still going to give N a try. Thanks for steering me in what looks like the right direction.
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Good to hear. Let us know how N only and Mixed N and G work out for you. If there are other WiFi in the area and your router is somewhat close to your devices, you could also try lowering the power output of the WiFi and see if that will help. I would try this last a last resort though. Hope it works well.
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Probably going to jinx myself, but I may have found a fix. I tried everything from changing modes to messing with QoS and security settings. Since this happened every 24 hours like clockwork, I looked into the enable schedule. It's set by default to always. I thought there may be something wrong with their schedule. So, i created a new scheduled and called it Really Everything. Checked all days and all hours. Set wifi enabled to that schedule and am currently enjoying a record 3 days uptime. Can anyone verify?
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Same problem here. I'm running two routers both HW ver A4 and FW ver 1.35NA. the primary is providing the routing capabilities throughout the house and is tied to a 24 port Cisco switch. It maintains a wireless network covering the upstairs of the house. The second hangs off the switch and acts as an access point providing wireless coverage for the first floor. When I started having this problem, I first noticed it with my iPhone and other portable devices and attributed it to them, then computers started having the problem so after logging the times of the errors, attributed it to "peak" hours and thought it was interference from other networks in the neighborhood (I can pull 9 from my living room).
After playing with different channels and settings I actually observed the WiFi light on the front of my router was shutting off. A few minutes later, it would come back on. If I unplugged it for several minutes it would work for a while, if I unplugged it and plugged it right back in, it would continue cycling on and off. After reading through this forum, I got to thinking that it was the overheating problem with the wireless circuitry brought on by heavier use (I tell my kids to keep their computers plugged into the Ethernet ports when they're in their rooms). So I reset the primary router just before typing this and changed the TX power down to medium.... it had been on and off all evening and has remained solid since I changed the power.
I'll keep you all posted, but if this works, it's the relief of a symptom, not a cure. If tech support is listening, I'm betting the end result is that it's bad engineering and the wireless subsystem is overheating. No amount of tweaking settings or a firmware upgrade will really cure the problem. If D-Link is going to stand behind this one, it will be to replace the bad units with better hardware. But, I could be wrong.
I'll leave the systems running with one on full power and one on medium power for a couple days and see what happens and post the logs if there's anything interesting.
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Your issues may not be HW related, you need to fully troubleshoot your system to see if your settings and your system is set up correctly. I have basically the same setup on at my house and do not see the issues you are describing.
It would help everyone here in the forums if you could give us more detailed information on how your system is set up and how it's configured so we can try and help you out:
What wireless modes are you using? Have you tired different modes? Single and mixed? What are those results?
What devices are connected to what router? Device versions?
Both Wired and wireless?
Are there other WiFi routers in the area?
Any cordless house phones in the house?
There are many other factors that play a part in WiFi and these routers and can effect them. You have to troubleshoot has much as possible to help narrow down the root cause. I grant you that there maybe some HW issues out there, however most issues stem from user configurations and or other items up stream or down stream from the router.
Same problem here. I'm running two routers both HW ver A4 and FW ver 1.35NA. the primary is providing the routing capabilities throughout the house and is tied to a 24 port Cisco switch. It maintains a wireless network covering the upstairs of the house. The second hangs off the switch and acts as an access point providing wireless coverage for the first floor. When I started having this problem, I first noticed it with my iPhone and other portable devices and attributed it to them, then computers started having the problem so after logging the times of the errors, attributed it to "peak" hours and thought it was interference from other networks in the neighborhood (I can pull 9 from my living room).
After playing with different channels and settings I actually observed the WiFi light on the front of my router was shutting off. A few minutes later, it would come back on. If I unplugged it for several minutes it would work for a while, if I unplugged it and plugged it right back in, it would continue cycling on and off. After reading through this forum, I got to thinking that it was the overheating problem with the wireless circuitry brought on by heavier use (I tell my kids to keep their computers plugged into the Ethernet ports when they're in their rooms). So I reset the primary router just before typing this and changed the TX power down to medium.... it had been on and off all evening and has remained solid since I changed the power.
I'll keep you all posted, but if this works, it's the relief of a symptom, not a cure. If tech support is listening, I'm betting the end result is that it's bad engineering and the wireless subsystem is overheating. No amount of tweaking settings or a firmware upgrade will really cure the problem. If D-Link is going to stand behind this one, it will be to replace the bad units with better hardware. But, I could be wrong.
I'll leave the systems running with one on full power and one on medium power for a couple days and see what happens and post the logs if there's anything interesting.
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When set to G-only I had no problems over a 36 hour period. Tried setting it to G and N and it stopped broadcasting within 3 hours. Tried setting the channel to 11; still stopped broadcasting within 3-6 hours. Tried setting it to N-only, but all my devices can't handle the encryption with N. So I'm back to broadcasting only in G.
Update: Since setting the router to G-only I have had no problems for over a week. Working flawlessly. I haven't tried N-only because some of my devices don't receive in N. Would like to use the mixed N/G mode, but the unit stops broadcasting on that setting. Very pleased with the performance on G-only.
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Your issues may not be HW related, you need to fully troubleshoot your system to see if your settings and your system is set up correctly. I have basically the same setup on at my house and do not see the issues you are describing.
It would help everyone here in the forums if you could give us more detailed information on how your system is set up and how it's configured so we can try and help you out:
What wireless modes are you using? Have you tired different modes? Single and mixed? What are those results?
What devices are connected to what router? Device versions?
Both Wired and wireless?
Are there other WiFi routers in the area?
Any cordless house phones in the house?
There are many other factors that play a part in WiFi and these routers and can effect them. You have to troubleshoot has much as possible to help narrow down the root cause. I grant you that there maybe some HW issues out there, however most issues stem from user configurations and or other items up stream or down stream from the router.
Would you care to explain how any of the issues you listed would stop the hardware from broadcasting completely? We're not talking about channel interference or random drops. The entire SSID disappears and the hardware flat out stop broadcasting anything. I got my wifi signal analyzer out of the toolkit that I use often to map wifi hotspots and channel layouts. The router is not broadcasting a signal at all.
To update my situation, 4 days without loss of signal since changing the schedule.
I have 1 server wired to a Cisco 2950 rackmount managed switch. The switch is ran off a Cisco 3600 rackmount router with ADSL wic. The DIR-655 is also plugged into the switch on a separate vlan. 1 pc is plugged into the DIR-655. PC and server always run fine. On the wifi, I have a netbook, 2 laptops, 2 Android cell phones, HDI dune media streamer, roku xds, and a Wii.
I've tried all modes from only G to only N and all mixed in between. My old Buffalo G running Open-wrt has always worked 100% flawlessly. I have 4 DECT 6.0 handsets operating in the 1920-1930 MHZ range, well outside of the 2.4ghz that this router uses. Dlink is using WPA/WPA2-personal with AES encryption. There are many routers in the area, all operating on channel 6 and 11. Currently, I'm on channel 3.
Moral of the story, there is no interference or user error. This model B1 with 2.00NA firmware just flat out stops broadcasting any signal whatsoever.
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Could be an issue with the internal radio, give tech support a call and maybe they can see whether you need to RMA it.
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I agree, if your wired connections are working and the wireless isn't, then possible issue with the radio HW.
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I agree, if your wired connections are working and the wireless isn't, then possible issue with the radio HW.
Like I said in my original post and as was pointed out by Cexshun... What devices I have connected and what settings are on those devices have absolutely no impact whatsoever on the router itself shutting off the WiFi while maintaining the rest of the network. 4 pages into this forum and seeing what everyone else has written and what your responses have been it seems obvious that you are grasping at straws. If you are D-Link tech support, then admit there is a problem and say you are working on it or say you don't know. That is more helpful to the people in this forum than sending them on wild settings chases. A fix could be broadcasting in G only? Really? If I purchase a car that has air conditioning and a radio and I can only use one at a time, the mechanic isn't going to tell me that I need to turn my radio on AM and drive in reverse to get my car to work, he's going to acknowledge that something is wrong with the car and fix it.
Indicating that the wireless indicator on the front of the router itself is turning on and off and seeing the SSID come and go with a sniffer in perfect synchronization with the LED is all the troubleshooting any intelligent technician needs... especially when I can observe this behavior with no wireless clients connected!
Now, to update, the primary router has run correctly since reducing the power output of the wireless signal from high to medium. The second router acting as the access point has remained on high and has continued to cycle on and off. So again, if this is a "fix" then I am using a corvette that only stays running if I drive it under 45... not really a fix. I have not tried resetting the schedule yet. I will do so and post the results.
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The information I recommended are steps in troubleshooting your issue in hopes they might help narrow down the issue you seem to be having. If your unwilling to try them out then thats your decision and I'll recommend others here can try and help if you. If not then I would suggest you give Dlink a call and talk to them of this issue. Were only here to help each other out as much as we can. It's up to people to listen and take action on the information presented. Have a great weekend.
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Hi all, first post here. I just recently started having this problem as well. I have owned my 655 for a few months, but now every 4 hrs or so I have to reboot it to get my wifi back. The wired works fine, but not the wifi. This is very, very annoying as I work from home a lot and I am now running ugly CAT5 along the floor into my office since I cannot reliably stay connected via my 655.
I have tried everything in this thread and nothing seems to work. Has D-Link weighed in at all with this? This is disappointing as I normally don't mind Dlink for SOHO gear. In fact I have a Dlink boxeebox, router, and was thinking of getting their entry level NAS enclosure ( 323 I believe) to augment my other network storage devices. However I am quickly now getting turned off of Dlink all together.
I have moved recently and that does coincide with the start of these outages. I have ran inSSIDer and there were plenty of networks around me but not a one of them was using the same channel.
I have recently upgraded to Rogers 25 Mbps service which forces you to get their SMC router/cable modem device. I did have to have them remotely disable the built in router as I already have my home network hanging off the 655 and all the IP's setup nicely--the SMC uses the same default subnet as the Dlink, so there was a conflict initially. Since Rogers has turned that off I only see my Dlink when I access the default IP of 192.168.0.1. So I doubt it's that, I'm just trying to pain a clear picture here.
As much as I don't want to, I'm pretty close to just going out and getting the next most popular Netgear router.
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This is pretty much a user to user forum so you won't see much "Official" information here. Best to give tech support a call and see what they can do for you.
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Hi all, first post here. I just recently started having this problem as well. I have owned my 655 for a few months, but now every 4 hrs or so I have to reboot it to get my wifi back. The wired works fine, but not the wifi. This is very, very annoying as I work from home a lot and I am now running ugly CAT5 along the floor into my office since I cannot reliably stay connected via my 655.
I have tried everything in this thread and nothing seems to work. Has D-Link weighed in at all with this? This is disappointing as I normally don't mind Dlink for SOHO gear. In fact I have a Dlink boxeebox, router, and was thinking of getting their entry level NAS enclosure ( 323 I believe) to augment my other network storage devices. However I am quickly now getting turned off of Dlink all together.
I have moved recently and that does coincide with the start of these outages. I have ran inSSIDer and there were plenty of networks around me but not a one of them was using the same channel.
I have recently upgraded to Rogers 25 Mbps service which forces you to get their SMC router/cable modem device. I did have to have them remotely disable the built in router as I already have my home network hanging off the 655 and all the IP's setup nicely--the SMC uses the same default subnet as the Dlink, so there was a conflict initially. Since Rogers has turned that off I only see my Dlink when I access the default IP of 192.168.0.1. So I doubt it's that, I'm just trying to pain a clear picture here.
As much as I don't want to, I'm pretty close to just going out and getting the next most popular Netgear router.
Hi dmaker,
Part of the problem is the lack of Tech Support here.
However, sometimes a reboot of the router doesn't cut, having gone through the same problem, I have the experience necessary to tell you exactly what to do. The Router stays on all the time, whether you are there or not and can a momentarily power outage or voltage spike, which can scramble the settings that you can't see.
Do a Factory Reset by holding in the button in the back of the Router for about 20 to 30 seconds and release the button with the power on. The lights will go out and come back on.
If you backed up the settings, when you didn't have the problem, good, you can restore them via the backup. Otherwise, you need to reenter all settings by hand.
After you reenter all settings by hand, now would be a good time to back them up.
Also, you should have the logs Emailed to you. Purpose: When the logs are Emailed almost constantly, because the logs get full, is the indicator that a Factory Reset is required again, or the Router is going out, if a Factory Reset doesn't correct the problem.
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Thanks for the tip creator. I have done a factory reset and it's been up now for a couple of days. Working from home today ans so far so good. When I was working from home on Wednesday, it dropped twice by this time already.
Fingers crossed...
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Try turning off QoS if your not using it and if your using WiFi, try changing the Modes to Single mode G or N or Mixed Mode G and N. If you don't have any A or B devices, then theres no seed to broadcast those modes. Let us know how it goes.
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So much for that experiment. The wifi radio died again last night. I have tried everything in this thread. I have to run in mixed G and N mode as my work laptop is G only. I think I am going to scrap this piece of crap router and go buy a Cisco or a Netgear tomorrow.
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Thanks for the tip creator. I have done a factory reset and it's been up now for a couple of days. Working from home today ans so far so good. When I was working from home on Wednesday, it dropped twice by this time already.
Fingers crossed...
Hi dmaker,
If the router, D-Link DIR-655 Router, is older than 30 days, but still in Warranty call D-Link Support and request a RMA to return the unit under Warranty.
Many times, when transferring a Flow Chart to actual coding, bugs come into play. You can have a Physical Defect in the unit or a Firmware Bug.
You have every right to spend more money on a different Router, but why not try to save money, first.
You will need to troubleshoot the unit with them, first, before a RMA is issued.
Remember you can have a different set of problems with a different brand of Router.
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I hear you creator, but an RMA is not a decent option for someone who works from home. I need a constant, reliable router. I have to be online, all day, every day. I can't wait for Dlink to get around to RMA'ing it unless I don't have to ship the old one until the replacement arrives. Then I might consider it. OR I might just stop buying Dlink branded products all together. I shudder at the thought of going through all of these steps yet again with first line support at Dlink.
The router is about six months old, so it should still be covered by factory warranty--not sure if I have the receipt handy though.
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I hear you creator, but an RMA is not a decent option for someone who works from home. I need a constant, reliable router. I have to be online, all day, every day. I can't wait for Dlink to get around to RMA'ing it unless I don't have to ship the old one until the replacement arrives. Then I might consider it. OR I might just stop buying Dlink branded products all together. I shudder at the thought of going through all of these steps yet again with first line support at Dlink.
The router is about six months old, so it should still be covered by factory warranty--not sure if I have the receipt handy though.
Hi dmaker,
Buy a cheap spare Router and this way you could have a backup always handy. Then you could RMA the Router without a problem.
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Hi dmaker,
Buy a cheap spare Router and this way you could have a backup always handy. Then you could RMA the Router without a problem.
Just bought the same router and am having the same problems out of the box with minimal settings changes.
Did change security to WPA/WPA2 with AES, all other things beside that are default.. = Total Fail
Seriously having to reboot the router after losing connectivity at 9am every morning plus I guess my roommates said it dropped during the night as well is ridiculous.. Just upgraded from a G model that didn't have that issue, so find it completely frustrating for sure.
Switching to Mixed mode G+N only and Tried the Schedule create name and set to see how she fairs.
ie mixed mode
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Just bought the same router and am having the same problems out of the box with minimal settings changes.
Did change security to WPA/WPA2 with AES, all other things beside that are default.. = Total Fail
Seriously having to reboot the router after losing connectivity at 9am every morning plus I guess my roommates said it dropped during the night as well is ridiculous.. Just upgraded from a G model that didn't have that issue, so find it completely frustrating for sure.
Switching to Mixed mode G+N only and Tried the Schedule create name and set to see how she fairs.
ie mixed mode
Hi OregonSlacker,
You have just purchased the DIR-655 Router. Are you connecting, Wirelessly to this Router with all computers? Or Wired?
If Wirelessly, did you buy matching Wireless Adapters, or using existing Wireless Adapters?
Also check Enable Wireless: Leave it set to Always. Do not Create a Schedule.
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Mostly Wirelessly with 2 main computers and 1 Asus Laptop with a built in wifi N support.
Only wired connection is to the blu-ray player attached but that has been off since purchasing the dir-655.
I bought one matching adapter thats installed on XP in my roommates machine (he actually paid for the router, as an upgrade from a Dlink Wireless G Router to increase speed and range, I'm just the support :) )
His Machine Connects at 300Mb/s after setting the WPA2/AES Settings with auto 20/40hz, prior to that he was at 130Mb/s
On my personal machine I am using Trendnet Wireless N card that connects at 64Mb/s
using InSSider 2.0 there are no other wireless signals from neighbors interfering with the router, although their are a couple 2.4ghz phones in use throughout the house.
When the signal dropped again this am at around 9am I was the only one connected to the router
(haven't noticed what time the other days did it although I suspect roughly the same time as when I woke up at 11am my roommate immediately notified me of the problem) I did a firmware update immediately after to 2.01NA, then changed a few settings (mixed mode N/G from Mixed Mode All, and from Auto WPA/WPA2 to WPA2 exclusively) I also did create an always on schedule as I read through this topic and someone had mentioned doing so and still being connected for 4 days, so figured it couldn't hurt,e specially considering the drop seemed to be at the same times in the morning leading me to the thoughts that it might be schedule related as well.. No disconnects as of yet, but I'll keep updating till I either solve it or return in to newegg.
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The problem is the router/firmware. 655's are notorious for this. if you want a good stable wireless router I recommend the wndr3400. It does have a bug with the timezone feature. And it doesn't support NTP.
You can set it for what ever timezone you are in; but whenever you restart the router, it resets to Pacific timezone. So that could screw up your router schedule, if you use that feature, and your logs timestamps. The good news is, once set up, it rarely, if ever, needs to be restarted unless you are making a config change, and then just remember to reset the timezone drop down. A small, but possibly annoying price to pay if you care about timezones.
Naturally, for scheduling, you can just set your schedule using pacific times and it won't matter.
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The problem is the router/firmware. 655's are notorious for this. if you want a good stable wireless router I recommend the wndr3400. It does have a bug with the timezone feature. And it doesn't support NTP.
You can set it for what ever timezone you are in; but whenever you restart the router, it resets to Pacific timezone. So that could screw up your router schedule, if you use that feature, and your logs timestamps. The good news is, once set up, it rarely, if ever, needs to be restarted unless you are making a config change, and then just remember to reset the timezone drop down. A small, but possibly annoying price to pay if you care about timezones.
Naturally, for scheduling, you can just set your schedule using pacific times and it won't matter.
I too am having problems with the 655 dropping the broadcast. I recently switched from a couple year old DIR-625 because it started dropping my wireless connection. I first tried the Netgear WNDR-3400, but had trouble with it. It was connecting slowly and then my speed dropped. With the 635, I had been getting 150mbps, but with the 3400, I only was only getting 75mbps. I returned it, and ordered the 655. Now it's dropping the wifi broadcast, and it too is only getting me 75mbps (actually, just 65mbps today). When I reattach my DIR-625, I return back to 150 mbps. This is getting crazy!
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Any interference around your area? Seems like you've seen this issue on several routers. Any house cordless phones?
What happens if you change the WiFi mode to Single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
What WiFi devices are you connecting to the router?
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House cordless phone, but was never a problem with my DIR-625. Also never had trouble with it dropping a signal until recently. Devices include cat5 to one PC and Xbox. Wireless devices include iPod Touch, Android phone, Android tablet, Win7 laptop and XP laptop. Currently on mixed bgn, wpa-2 TKIP & AES cipher, with auto channel and 20mhz channel width. Based on InSSIDer, I think I'll try to manual assign my channel, as auto is aligning to other exisiting channel traffic.
Still don't understand why my speed dropped though. My settings have been pretty much the same between the 625 and the 655, so don't know why the 655 is slower. My 655 is hardware ver B1, and firmware 2.00NA.
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While changing various settings on the router are valid troubleshooting steps, I recommend everyone having the same problem with the wireless signal dropping, observe the LED on the front of their routers (see my previous post). When I called D-Link tech support, they didn't seem at all suprised and were perfectly willing to replace both of my routers without question.
Despite those in this forum that would tend to disagree... the WiFi LED shutting off completely and the complete failure of the hardware to transmit a WiFi signal when observed through an OS independant stand-alone WiFi sniffer is absolutely a hardware issue and has nothing to do with the configuration of your router or your clients. Even if your router is colocated with another, more powerful, device that is walking on your wireless signal, the LED should remain on and despite your inability to read the signal because of the interference, the router should continue to transmit.
To reiterate, I have 2 DIR-655s in my home network, both are HW v.A4 and FW v.1.35. The first acts as the fully functional router and is connected to a 24 port Cisco Catalyst switch providing Ethernet throughout my house. This router provides the upstairs wireless coverage. The second router is located in the downstairs portion of the house and is acting as an access point only providing a second wireless network for coverage in the downstairs rooms of my house. I also have an AT&T MicroCell which was added ~after~ the problems had already been identified.
The clients my network supports on the wireless side include iPhones, Nintendo DSi's, X-Box 360, PS3, and PC's running WinXP, WinVista, Win7, Debian Linux, and MAC OSX. When I can have multiple device types and multiple operating systems all colocated and watch them all drop signal at the same time and in sync with the LED shutting off, it's not a configuration problem, it's a hardware issue.
So, after you're done chasing your tail with settings that you shouldn't have to change (if the router is made to broadcast b,g,b and wont, that's a problem) then just call tech support and get yourself a replacement.
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Have Dlink 655, but range is only one room away (ground floor). Once in a while it goes two rooms away (40 ft). HELP!
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try changing the WiFi to single mode G or Mixed G and N.
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Same router, same problem. I am trying going from b/g/n to just g/n. I have read the rest of the comments and at best I am confused and at worst, frustrated. We have this same router at work and have had no issues.
I am running the guest wifi as well as the standard and have WISH turned on (hoping to help the Netflix stream...anyone suggest against it?)
(Side note - just registered and saw that these forums send my password in the email registration. That is worst practice and dangerous. Bad D-Link!)
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Hey everyone,
I just picked up this router and for the first few days I was having this problem. The wifi network would just disappear and none of my devices could pick it up until I power cycled it. This would happen once a day or so.
The last 2 things I did were update the firmware (I have B revision) and disable UPnP. Since then it has worked fine. I suspect it was UPnP as I've had issues with this on other routers in the past. This setting is under Advanced > Advanced Networking.
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I also need help with this, I've already tried everything else. It always stops broadcasting when my son gets on xbox and me on laptop. why is this
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Not surprisingly, switching to just g & n didn't work. Going to try turning off UPNP next and see what happens.
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YOu need to set up QoS rules for you and your sons xbox. Xbox will consume bandwidth. Need to put a priority on his xbox and yours when he's online playing. I would change from mixed mode to Single mode G if your not using A, B or N modes.
I also need help with this, I've already tried everything else. It always stops broadcasting when my son gets on xbox and me on laptop. why is this
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Hi All,
I believe a lot of you, Plug and Play, which doesn't work with Routers.
http://192.168.0.1/Basic/Network.shtml (http://192.168.0.1/Basic/Network.shtml)
Under DHCP Server Settings
Make sure that Enable DHCP Server is checked as well as Always broadcast is checked.
The DHCP Lease Time: in minutes should be 10800.
Try those settings and see what happens.
Note: Radio should always be Broadcasting or On, but your Visibility Status should be Invisible .
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Universal Plug n Play (UPnP) is not the same thing as Plug and Play in Windows. UPnP enabled programs can tell the router which ports to open automatically so that the program can communicate online and then closes those ports when the program stop running. These can be online games,chat programs, etc... that need certain ports open when they run. If you disable UPnP and run a program that needs a port open, you may have to go in and configure these manually.
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I have tried several changes mentioned in this forum, and the router is still inconsistent. My hardwired connections are also failing and recovering intermittently.
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Hey everyone,
I just picked up this router and for the first few days I was having this problem. The wifi network would just disappear and none of my devices could pick it up until I power cycled it. This would happen once a day or so.
The last 2 things I did were update the firmware (I have B revision) and disable UPnP. Since then it has worked fine. I suspect it was UPnP as I've had issues with this on other routers in the past. This setting is under Advanced > Advanced Networking.
I did what you said and disabled UPnP and low and behold the computer in my bedroom showed a message that another computer on the network has the same IP address. This must be the problem. My router started to lose the radio the minute I bought a new laptop and put it on the network. Somehow when I added it to the network it used an IP address that another computer was using causing the interference. This was my second router as I returned the first one due to the internet dropping so I knew it was not overheating and figured it was a firmware problem. Two days have passed without the problem and I wonder if I re-enable the UPnP now the router would remain stable. I really can't belive D-Link has no fix for a problem so many people are having ? Really stupid customer service on their part !
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I did what you said and disabled UPnP and low and behold the computer in my bedroom showed a message that another computer on the network has the same IP address. This must be the problem. My router started to lose the radio the minute I bought a new laptop and put it on the network. Somehow when I added it to the network it used an IP address that another computer was using causing the interference. This was my second router as I returned the first one due to the internet dropping so I knew it was not overheating and figured it was a firmware problem. Two days have passed without the problem and I wonder if I re-enable the UPnP now the router would remain stable. I really can't belive D-Link has no fix for a problem so many people are having ? Really stupid customer service on their part !
Hi ronhondo,
Disabling UPnP will stop Instant Messenger programs that depend on UPnP from working.
Go to all Computers. Go into Services.
Plug and Play Service should be set to Manual.
SSDP Discovery Service should be set to Manual.
Universal Plug and Play Device Host should be set to Automatic.
Reboot each computer after making the changes. Check connections over the next few days.
I believe that you or something may have changed UPnP Services because of a Security Threat.
With the Router's Firewall on, I believe you don't need to worry.
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You have two of those backwards;
Plug and play should be Automatic and UPnP Device Host should be manual.
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There is no way to change the plug and play to manual ? Member davevt31 Quoted that you had two of the changes you suggested backwards ? All I know is that the router is not shutting off now and I don't use instant message programs. D-link needs to fix this with a Firmware Update.
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Ronhondo, have you set up DHCP Reserved IP addresses for all of your connected devices? This will help ensure each device gets it's own IP address and wont conflict.
Try changing from mixed mode to Single mode G to set?
uPnP should be set to enable at most times.
Ensure primary and 2ndary DNS addresses are being filled in under Setup/Internet/Manual
Disable Advanced DNS Services if you have this option.
Enable DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
What ISP service do you have? DSL or Cable?
What ISP modem do you have? Stand alone or built in router?
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Ronhondo, have you set up static IP addresses for all of your connected devices? This will help ensure each device gets it's own IP address and wont conflict.
Try changing from mixed mode to Single mode G to set?
uPnP should be set to enable at most times.
Ensure primary and 2ndary DNS addresses are being filled in under Setup/Internet/Manual
Disable Advanced DNS Services if you have this option.
Enable DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
What ISP service do you have? DSL or Cable?
What ISP modem do you have? Stand alone or built in router?
I am using a stand alone Cablevision Modem. I must be stupid but I cannot see how to change the mode to "G" only on the router. Any other router I had allowed you to change the mode in the initial setup. Also .. How do you change the static IP in Win 7 ? .. But like I said ... The router is now working perfectly and at a very high speed. Everything is working for me with the router uPnP disabled. To refresh .. I had the router for a couple of months and had no problems until I bought a new Gateway Notebook. The minute I put it on the network the wireless kept shutting down. After disabling the uPnP setting on the router I got a message that stated two computers were using the same IP address. I renewed the IP on the computer that had the message and the router became stable. I now look at the status inside the router software and all five computers I use have a separate IP address. Still .. How do I change the static IP in win 7 ? Thanks in advance.
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To change the WiFi modes, log into the routers web page and you'll find the WiFi modes under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Set up DHCP Reserved IP addresses on the router, not the devices. Setup/Networking.
Set the devices to auto obtain in there networking properties.
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Hey everyone,
I just picked up this router and for the first few days I was having this problem. The wifi network would just disappear and none of my devices could pick it up until I power cycled it. This would happen once a day or so.
The last 2 things I did were update the firmware (I have B revision) and disable UPnP. Since then it has worked fine. I suspect it was UPnP as I've had issues with this on other routers in the past. This setting is under Advanced > Advanced Networking.
I appreciate your post. I followed your instructions and my Router is working great. I almost returned it but your fix did the trick. It seems the moment I diabled uPnP my main computer showed a message that two of my computers had the same IP address. It seems my new Gateway Laptop with Atheros WiFi was the problem. Now that the IP addresses are OK I wonder if the router would remain stable if I re-enable uPnP ? I'm afraid to try that as I do not want the problem to reappear. Also I read in another post that Atheros WiFi was causing him problems.
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Did you set up DHCP Reserved IP addresses for your devices on the router?
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Did you set up Static Reserved IP addresses for your devices on the router?
I don't know how to do that ? Using Win 7.
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Set up DHCP Reserved IP addresses on the routers web page under Setup/Networking.
The bottom section, you'll see a list of devices that the router recognizes. You can select the Reserve word link and this will auto fill in the section above. Here you can edit the name for ease of IDg. Then select Add or Save.
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I don't know how to do that ? Using Win 7.
Hi ronhondo,
Make sure that any of the computers you have, do not have a Static IP Address assigned in them. All computers should be configured for Dynamic IP Addresses. The DHCP Reserved IP Addresses are assigned by the Router, itself, manually by you. It needs to be within the IP Address range of 192.168.0.100 to 192.168.0.199.
Reboot the computers and devices to test.
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Hi ronhondo,
Make sure that any of the computers you have, do not have a Static IP Address assigned in them. All computers should be configured for Dynamic IP Addresses. The DHCP Reserved IP Addresses are assigned by the Router, itself, manually by you. It needs to be within the IP Address range of 192.168.0.100 to 192.168.0.199.
Reboot the computers and devices to test.
I think what you saying is the my computers should remain set at "Obtain the IP Automatically" and that I should go into the routers software and assign IP addresses to my computers. Is that what you are saying ?
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Yes.
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Furry instead of saying Static reserved, please tell posters to use a DHCP Reservation as that is what it is called on the router. This will cause alot less confusion.
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As you wish ;)
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Thanks for your help !
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Dlink 655 Hardware Version: B1 Firmware Version: 2.00NA
Had this router for about 3 weeks now and in just the last few days I've noticed the same broadcast dropout problem that others have described. I've tried disabling several different settings UDP, WISH, etc to no avail. Looking at other networks in range I find very little overlap. This has been a frustrating issue and I'm about out of patience with the router. Reading through all 7 pages of this thread basically boils down to trying G or N only modes, adjusting the schedule, and power settings.
I've not seen any form of consistent results from any of these attempts and it seems like stabbing in the dark. Before I return the router, leave some bad feedback about the experience at Amazon, and be on my way, has there been any progress towards a demonstrable solution in the last few weeks?
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I have the very same issue as all others of you. I hoped to wait for a better firmware that solved these dropout issues.
I have been surfing on a cheap and newer and more stable Linksys router for maybe 1.5 years now. It is the only solution for me.
But it is sad to have forked out some dollars for this c ra p p y dlink-router. Because it is c ra p. I know it doesn't help much by stating the obvious fact, that it is cr a p. But the support team should have this feedback from as much of us as possible.
I hope that some day this router will have a better firmware release. I also hope that IPv6 will be implemented, am I to hopeful with this request? Or is IPv6 implemented in it already, because my ISP is running on IPv4 for now, so it is untested.
I think firmware patching is the only viable solution for fixing these problems. Or else they did form dlink release a lot of cr a pp y chips/circuits with this router model. One or the other.
I need the router to run in N-mode. So I have a pure N-setup leaving G-mode out of the picture.
But for now the router is only gathering dust, and that is a shame.
Rev.A3
:'(
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so care to give us the details of your network set up and what you have done to trouble shoot your issue? I can understand your frustrations however we need some details to maybe help you figure out what your problem is. Help us help you.
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Interesting thread....I have had my dir655 for several years without incident. Last night it went on the blink with same symptoms listed in this thread, wired connections work fine, wireless say's enabled but none of my end devices can pick up the signal. Note I have consistently had as many as 4 wireless connections connected 7x24 over the years with as many as 10 with never a problem. Now all of the sudden, out of no where this happens. Before i start chasing ghosts can anyone explain to my why this is likely happening? I should be able to see logs or identify somehow what the issue is.
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what wireless modes are you using?
Any other wireless in your area?
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I'm having similar problems as OP except I don't have a modem and the DSL line runs straight from the phone jack to my router and another ethernet cable from the router to my PC.
Probably every 2-3 hours, the router freezes up and I get no wifi or internet on the PC directly connected to the router. I have to un power the router and then replug it back in for the connection to reset and start working again.
I contacted Dlink support they told me to reflash the firmware on my router, which I did, but it probably solves the problem for 1-2 days max and then starts occurring every few hours again.
What do you guys advise?
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THere has to be a modem or some sort of device connecting you to the ISP.
What ISP service do you have?
Sure there isn't a ISP modem somewhere?
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THere has to be a modem or some sort of device connecting you to the ISP.
What ISP service do you have?
Sure there isn't a ISP modem somewhere?
I have ATT DSL. When they came out to set it up a long time ago, they just had the line from the wall into my computer and then from my computer to the router. So unless my computer itself is the modem?
I'm still having problems with my Wifi being broadcasted, but it's just not connecting to the internet. My laptop (on Win7) that I use wifi on gets the yellow exclaimation ! on the signal strength icon and then I know that I have to get up and go unplug my router and replug to fix it. Today, it's done that for almost every 15 minutes. On my desktop (Vista), there's usually a computer and a globe icon when there's internet and it disconnects from the internet and shows the computer icon w/ the blank screen.
I'm browsing through the forums and pretty much trying every tip on here to see what's up with it. I've reset the router to factory settings and tried almost everything, but the same thing happens over and over.
Probably might head out and get some sort of modem to try it out and see if it makes any difference
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If you have ATT DSL then there is a modem.
Need to find out if it's a stand alone modem or has a built in router as this can effect having another router on line.
Can try changing the 655 routers WiFi modes from Mixed to Single G or Mixed G and N if you have N supported devices. If this doesn't help I would see if the DSL modem can be reset and bridged if needed and see if that helps.
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I am joining the chorus of voices. Have the same random yet regular disconnect issues (have not "analyzed" the periodicity yet).
My disconnect interval seems a bit longer than those who say it happens every 24 hours - it seems like I go 2-3 days before disconnecting and having to reset. I have also noticed that when I go back into the management interface to reset, the wireless security has been "reset" to "None" so while "disconnected" my system is unsecure? I set it at WPA2.
Now that I've read through the 8 pages, no one seems to have mentioned the Group Key Interval Update setting - this cannot be turned "off" on this router and a value MUST be put in. My previous router I was able to turn this setting off and similar disconnects happened much less frequently. Could this be part of the problem? I have set the GKIU to 36,000 seconds or so - almost the most it can be (the factory default I believe is 3600 seconds). I am eager to go home and try some of the other suggestions -- esp. the DHCP reservation suggestions as I also have a number of devices connecting (3 computers (1 Windows; 2 Macs); 1 iPad2; 1 Vizio TV; 3 cell phones (1 iPhone; 1 Android; 1 Blackberry)) - which seems to be a common bond here.
(Also using: Verizon DSL Modem; ASUS router set as a Repeater)
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Try changing to single mode G and changing the channels. Your Asus repeater could be a factor regarding interference, need to make sure that and the 655 isn't on the same channel or near by.
Set up Reserved IP addresses on the 655 router for all of your devices including the Asus repeater.
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Thanks - I "reserved" every device that was visible (note that the ASUS uses the DIR-655's "identity" to boost the signal - it does not have its own SSID)!
What do you think about the Group Key Update Interval causing issues?
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Really shouldn't be causing a problem. Preferred security is WPA2 and AES, however some devices don't fully support AES so try TPIK only to test. We have seen some odd issues lately with iPhones, Droids and such. Test with Single mode G and no security to test, Turn off all devices accept for one and test. Then turn on WPA2 and TPIK and test. Graduate the devices. Let us know.