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[klef25]

I can't get my DIR-615 to work anymore after my cable modem failed (no working lights).  There have been quite a few thunderstorms lately, but I'm not positive that that's what caused the modem failure.  I first noticed that it had failed when I couldn't get on the internet from my desktop or laptop and also couldn't transfer files from desktop (wired internet) and my laptop (wireless).  I've replaced the cable modem and can get a wired internet connection directly through it with my laptop, but not my desktop.  My desktop keeps saying that there is an internet cable disconnected.  I tried reconnecting my DIR-615 and can't get it to work.  I've tried it both through an ethernet cable and wirelessly.  I can't connect through the web admin tools as it always times out.  I've tried the setup disk installation, but it says it can't find the router.  I've tried to connect wirelessly, and then my laptop can see the "dlink" network.  When I try to connect to that, it asks for a PIN.  I enter 0000000000, which I think is the default PIN, but that does not seem to work.  There's nothing labeled PIN printed on the bottom of the router.  Is my router fried as well, like my modem was, or is there something else that I can try to connect to it.  Did the network card on my motherboard get fried, or is this just a problem that was created when the Charter Cable support told me to uninstall my NIC drivers while we were setting up the new modem.  Everything else with the desktop seems to work OK.  The other oddity is that the link light for port 2 is always blinking, even though there is nothing plugged in to port 2.  Please help, I hate to buy another router if this one is still good.

[kukubau]

The desktop network card might got fried as well as the router.

The default username and password is
username: admin
password: <blank>

The pin number is for the Wi-Fi Protected Setup, which you don't need at all.

If the  Charter Cable support told you to uninstall the network drivers, they should've instruct you tu install them back again or a newer version.

Look on the network card's manufacturer's website for the latest drivers and install those.
Set the local ip as static using network manager : 192.168.0.2
subnet mask: 255.255.255.0 and try to access the router's config page 192.168.0.1

If you still see a red X instead of the network working icon and the network drivers are installed correctly, that means your card is dead. As for the laptop not connecting is probably due to the laptop being fried at the same time.

[hrbanana]

Try following the hard reset procedure on the D-Link:
"To reset the router, locate the reset button (hole) on the rear panel of the unit. With the router powered on, use a paperclip to hold the button down for 10 seconds. Release the button and the router will go through its reboot process. Wait about 30 seconds to access the router. The default IP address is 192.168.0.1. When logging in, the username is admin and leave the password box empty."

If it still won't work or you still see blinking LEDs, then it's possible a surge came over the cable line and propagated thru the wired network. Back in the day when it was all dial-up, surges on phone lines were notorious for taking out the motherboard. If you live in an area with lots of storms, you may want to invest in an in line cable surge suppressor.

For the modem to PC, you may need to use a cross-over cable if the desktop NIC doesn't support auto switching. I can't remember if the D-Link WAN port will auto-switch, but you can tell by looking at the colors at both ends of the cable to see if it's straight thru or crossed. Also try connecting the laptop directly to the desktop to see if you get a link UP on the desktop.

Assuming XP, you can check if the NIC driver is installed OK:
Start -> Run -> devmgmt.msc to bring up the Device Manager
Expand the Network Adapters & check for any yellow (!) or red X's.
If you see the green icon next to the wired controller, the driver is loaded OK but the detection circuit is blown. You can order a replacement NIC online for pretty cheap or spend a bit more at a B&M store assuming you have a free PCI slot. I would only get a USB to Ethernet adapter at a last resort.