Well, the really odd thing was that at one time jumbo frames made about a 10-15% improvement. I have the same machines, the same set of gigabit switches, and the same NAS, and now they reduce my performance! I was using 4k jumbo frames, but I tried 4k and 9k with the same results.
Obviously, something changed in the network that affects it, but I'll be damned if I know what it was. Pings across the infrastructure with a 9k packet work, so I know the switches are passing the jumbo packets.