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[FurryNutz]

Try turning off QoS if your not using it and if your using WiFi, try changing the Modes to Single mode G or N or Mixed Mode G and N. If you don't have any A or B devices, then theres no seed to broadcast those modes. Let us know how it goes.

[dmaker]

So much for that experiment. The wifi radio died again last night. I have tried everything in this thread. I have to run in mixed G and N mode as my work laptop is G only. I think I am going to scrap this piece of crap router and go buy a Cisco or a Netgear tomorrow.

[thecreator]

Thanks for the tip creator. I have done a factory reset and it's been up now for a couple of days. Working from home today ans so far so good. When I was working from home on Wednesday, it dropped twice by this time already.

Fingers crossed...

Hi dmaker,

If the router, D-Link DIR-655 Router, is older than 30 days, but still in Warranty call D-Link Support and request a RMA to return the unit under Warranty.

Many times, when transferring a Flow Chart to actual coding, bugs come into play. You can have a Physical Defect in the unit or a Firmware Bug.

You have every right to spend more money on a different Router, but why not try to save money, first.

You will need to troubleshoot the unit with them, first, before a RMA is issued.

Remember you can have a different set of problems with a different brand of Router.

[dmaker]

I hear you creator, but an RMA is not a decent option for someone who works from home. I need a constant, reliable router. I have to be online, all day, every day. I can't wait for Dlink to get around to RMA'ing it unless I don't have to ship the old one until the replacement arrives. Then I might consider it. OR I might just stop buying Dlink branded products all together. I shudder at the thought of going through all of these steps yet again with first line support at Dlink.

The router is about six months old, so it should still be covered by factory warranty--not sure if I have the receipt handy though.

[thecreator]

I hear you creator, but an RMA is not a decent option for someone who works from home. I need a constant, reliable router. I have to be online, all day, every day. I can't wait for Dlink to get around to RMA'ing it unless I don't have to ship the old one until the replacement arrives. Then I might consider it. OR I might just stop buying Dlink branded products all together. I shudder at the thought of going through all of these steps yet again with first line support at Dlink.

The router is about six months old, so it should still be covered by factory warranty--not sure if I have the receipt handy though.

Hi dmaker,

Buy a cheap spare Router and this way you could have a backup always handy. Then you could RMA the Router without a problem.

[OregonSlacker]

Hi dmaker,

Buy a cheap spare Router and this way you could have a backup always handy. Then you could RMA the Router without a problem.

Just bought the same router and am having the same problems out of the box with minimal settings changes.

Did change security to WPA/WPA2 with AES, all other things beside that are default.. = Total Fail
Seriously having to reboot the router after losing connectivity at 9am every morning plus I guess my roommates said it dropped during the night as well is ridiculous.. Just upgraded from a G model that didn't have that issue, so find it completely frustrating for sure.

Switching to Mixed mode G+N only and Tried the Schedule create name and set to see how she fairs.
ie mixed mode

[thecreator]

Just bought the same router and am having the same problems out of the box with minimal settings changes.

Did change security to WPA/WPA2 with AES, all other things beside that are default.. = Total Fail
Seriously having to reboot the router after losing connectivity at 9am every morning plus I guess my roommates said it dropped during the night as well is ridiculous.. Just upgraded from a G model that didn't have that issue, so find it completely frustrating for sure.

Switching to Mixed mode G+N only and Tried the Schedule create name and set to see how she fairs.
ie mixed mode

Hi OregonSlacker,

You have just purchased the DIR-655 Router. Are you connecting, Wirelessly to this Router with all computers? Or Wired?

If Wirelessly, did you buy matching Wireless Adapters, or using existing Wireless Adapters?

Also check Enable Wireless: Leave it set to Always. Do not Create a Schedule.

[OregonSlacker]

Mostly Wirelessly with 2 main computers and 1 Asus Laptop with a built in wifi N support.
Only wired connection is to the blu-ray player attached but that has been off since purchasing the dir-655.

I bought one matching adapter thats installed on XP in my roommates machine (he actually paid for the router, as an upgrade from a Dlink Wireless G Router to increase speed and range, I'm just the support )
His Machine Connects at 300Mb/s after setting the WPA2/AES Settings with auto 20/40hz, prior to that he was at 130Mb/s

On my personal machine I am using Trendnet Wireless N card that connects at 64Mb/s
using InSSider 2.0 there are no other wireless signals from neighbors interfering with the router, although their are a couple 2.4ghz phones in use throughout the house.

When the signal dropped again this am at around 9am I was the only one connected to the router

(haven't noticed what time the other days did it although I suspect roughly the same time as when I woke up at 11am my roommate immediately notified me of the problem) I did a firmware update immediately after to 2.01NA, then changed a few settings (mixed mode N/G from Mixed Mode All, and from Auto WPA/WPA2 to WPA2 exclusively) I also did create an always on schedule as I read through this topic and someone had mentioned doing so and still being connected for 4 days, so figured it couldn't hurt,e specially considering the drop seemed to be at the same times in the morning leading me to the thoughts that it might be schedule related as well.. No disconnects as of yet, but I'll keep updating till I either solve it or return in to newegg.

[billy_kidd]

The problem is the router/firmware.  655's are notorious for this.  if you want a good stable wireless router I recommend the wndr3400.  It does have a bug with the timezone feature.  And it doesn't support NTP.

You can set it for what ever timezone you are in; but whenever you restart the router, it resets to Pacific timezone.  So that could screw up your router schedule, if you use that feature, and your logs timestamps. The good news is, once set up, it rarely, if ever, needs to be restarted unless you are making a config change, and then just remember to reset the timezone drop down.  A small, but possibly annoying price to pay if you care about timezones.

Naturally, for scheduling, you can just set your schedule using pacific times and it won't matter.

[matt2624]

The problem is the router/firmware.  655's are notorious for this.  if you want a good stable wireless router I recommend the wndr3400.  It does have a bug with the timezone feature.  And it doesn't support NTP.

You can set it for what ever timezone you are in; but whenever you restart the router, it resets to Pacific timezone.  So that could screw up your router schedule, if you use that feature, and your logs timestamps. The good news is, once set up, it rarely, if ever, needs to be restarted unless you are making a config change, and then just remember to reset the timezone drop down.  A small, but possibly annoying price to pay if you care about timezones.

Naturally, for scheduling, you can just set your schedule using pacific times and it won't matter.

I too am having problems with the 655 dropping the broadcast.  I recently switched from a couple year old DIR-625 because it started dropping my wireless connection.  I first tried the Netgear WNDR-3400, but had trouble with it.  It was connecting slowly and then my speed dropped.  With the 635, I had been getting 150mbps, but with the 3400, I only was only getting 75mbps.  I returned it, and ordered the 655.  Now it's dropping the wifi broadcast, and it too is only getting me 75mbps (actually, just 65mbps today).  When I reattach my DIR-625, I return back to 150 mbps.  This is getting crazy! 

[FurryNutz]

Any interference around your area? Seems like you've seen this issue on several routers. Any house cordless phones?

What happens if you change the WiFi mode to Single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
What WiFi devices are you connecting to the router?

[matt2624]

House cordless phone, but was never a problem with my DIR-625.  Also never had trouble with it dropping a signal until recently.  Devices include cat5 to one PC and Xbox.  Wireless devices include iPod Touch, Android phone, Android tablet, Win7 laptop and XP laptop.  Currently on mixed bgn, wpa-2 TKIP & AES cipher, with auto channel and 20mhz channel width.  Based on InSSIDer, I think I'll try to manual assign my channel, as auto is aligning to other exisiting channel traffic.

Still don't understand why my speed dropped though.  My settings have been pretty much the same between the 625 and the 655, so don't know why the 655 is slower.  My 655 is hardware ver B1, and firmware 2.00NA.

[leatherneckbiker]

While changing various settings on the router are valid troubleshooting steps, I recommend everyone having the same problem with the wireless signal dropping, observe the LED on the front of their routers (see my previous post).  When I called D-Link tech support, they didn't seem at all suprised and were perfectly willing to replace both of my routers without question.

Despite those in this forum that would tend to disagree... the WiFi LED shutting off completely and the complete failure of the hardware to transmit a WiFi signal when observed through an OS independant stand-alone WiFi sniffer is absolutely a hardware issue and has nothing to do with the configuration of your router or your clients. Even if your router is colocated with another, more powerful, device that is walking on your wireless signal, the LED should remain on and despite your inability to read the signal because of the interference, the router should continue to transmit.

To reiterate, I have 2 DIR-655s in my home network, both are HW v.A4 and FW v.1.35.  The first acts as the fully functional router and is connected to a 24 port Cisco Catalyst switch providing Ethernet throughout my house.  This router provides the upstairs wireless coverage.  The second router is located in the downstairs portion of the house and is acting as an access point only providing a second wireless network for coverage in the downstairs rooms of my house.  I also have an AT&T MicroCell which was added ~after~ the problems had already been identified.

The clients my network supports on the wireless side include iPhones, Nintendo DSi's, X-Box 360, PS3, and PC's running WinXP, WinVista, Win7, Debian Linux, and MAC OSX.  When I can have multiple device types and multiple operating systems all colocated and watch them all drop signal at the same time and in sync with the LED shutting off, it's not a configuration problem, it's a hardware issue.

So, after you're done chasing your tail with settings that you shouldn't have to change (if the router is made to broadcast b,g,b and wont, that's a problem) then just call tech support and get yourself a replacement.

[Princess4503]

Have Dlink 655, but range is only one room away (ground floor).  Once in a while it goes two rooms away (40 ft).  HELP!

[FurryNutz]

try changing the WiFi to single mode G or Mixed G and N.