To confirm ...
1) The workstation (a Dell Latitude 420) is behind a NAT'ed router in Florida (a cheap $39 Dynex from BestBuy) and the DNS-323 is behind a different NAT'ed router in Guyana (a Netgear WNR2000).
2) ftp r/w is occurring between the workstation via the Dynex to Comcast, through 3000 odd miles of the Americas II submarine fibre to Guyane (French Guiana), through a few hundred miles of terrestrial fibre across Suriname (Dutch Guiana), into Guyana (British Guiana) and then through Lightening Fast DSL to the Netgear and the DNS-323.
3) Only port 21 is forwarded to the DNS-323, port 800 is forwarded to a D-Link ip camera, and port 1723 is forwarded to a Windows 2003 server.
4) The only changes to router rules are in the NAT'ed router in front of the DNS-323.
5) The NAT'ed router in front of the workstation has only the port forwarding rules.
6) I can successfully R/W to the DNS-323 using either Explorer Folder View or the command line - I haven't tried with IE, I'm not certain that I can write using IE.
Just so that you are aware of it, the Netgear WNR2000, by default, will forward both ports 20 & 21 for the ftp service - this one has had that rule changed so that it forwards 21 only - not that it makes a difference, I have also used a D-Link DI-504 and a Linksys BEFSX41 in this location, with the DNS-323 - it really does not need port 20.