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[TonyRony]

Do the wireless sub-components of routers sometimes die while leaving the rest of the router working just fine?  How likely is this?

I've had a DIR-655 for about three years and have been enjoying near-flawless performance the whole time.  However, now my two wireless laptops (both run Windows 7) won't stay connected for more than two minutes.

Here's the kicker, though: The wireless connections started to fail immediately following a visit by trusted friends to whom we gave access by sharing the access key.  After they departed, I let the router select a new 63-character key, updated all my connecting clients, but they won't stay connected for more than two minutes.

So, this leads me to wonder: Did the wireless portion of my router coincidentally die right after their visit, or is there a worm or hack of some kind that might have done something to the router?

I've tweaked a few settings hoping some of my adjustments might help, but nothing has worked thus far.  I was disappointed by using the internal firmware check, which reported the firmware was up to date, but by visiting the D-Link web site, I learned that version 1.33 was outdated and I updated to version 1.35.  That didn't help my wireless connections, though.

I don't recall every type of adjustment I've made, so whenever I deviated too far from my original configuration, I'd reset to the factory defaults (using the recessed master reset button in the back of the router) and then reload the last known good configuration before resuming my tests.

The wired connections to the router are still working like a champ.  Also, during the short time the wireless devices work before their connections fail (a minute or two), the throughput seems really good.

So, what do you think, folks?  Any ideas would be very much appreciated.

Tony M.

[FurryNutz]

What wireless modes are you using?
Try single mode G or mixed G and N?
What security mode are you using? WEP, WPA or WPA2?
Doe it work with Security turned off to test?

[TonyRony]

What wireless modes are you using?
Try single mode G or mixed G and N?
What security mode are you using? WEP, WPA or WPA2?
Does it work with Security turned off to test?

Furry ... Thanks for your reply.

I had been using the mixed N&G setting mode, but recently switched to N-only as all my devices are currently N-capable devices.  But I'll try to go back to N&G to see what happens.

For security, I've always used WPA-Personal, set to WPA2-Only using the AES cipher.  But I'll also try with security turned off, as you suggested.

Here's what happened: We tried it with security completely off and the mode set to N&G, and while we had the connection, throughput was good, but it died within two or three minutes.  In addition, we had Channel Scanning enabled, Transmission Rate set to Best/Auto, and Channel Width set to Auto 20/40 MHz.  One more thing: We've tried all power levels (Low, Medium, and High) and our test machine is just one foot away from the router and the signal strength reported by the laptop indicates the max signal strength even at the router's Low power setting.  As reported earlier, wired devices seem completely unaffected.

So, what new clues does this give you, Furry?  Thanks in advance, sir.

Tony M.

[davevt31]

I would assume its possible for the radio portion of the router to die.  It's an electronic component and they can go bad.

[FurryNutz]

I would try single mode G after doing a factory reset.

If you still see the same problem, last thing would be to reflash or update the FW.
Factory reset, update, factory reset, then test again.
Seems like this could be WiFi going bad. 
Let us know.

[TonyRony]

I would try single mode G after doing a factory reset.

If you still see the same problem, last thing would be to reflash or update the FW.
Factory reset, update, factory reset, then test again.
Seems like this could be WiFi going bad. 
Let us know.

Nope, sorry, Furry ... That didn't work, either, so I'm thinking it's time to replace it.

If you see this, can I ask for your recommendation for a replacement from the D-Link line?  I'd like to get a newer model that has all the capabilities of the DIR-655, but with one possible addition: I knew the DIR-655 was a Gigabit router, but I had heard that it would drop down to being a 10/100 speed router if any of the attached devices was not a Gigabit device.

If this is true, then, can you tell me whether D-Link has a Wi-fi router better than the DIR-655 that can overcome that particular limitation?  Not all of my equipment is Gigabit-capable.

Thanks and good day.

[FurryNutz]

Still not working. Sorry to hear that. Well, you could still use the 655 as a router man. Turn off the WiFi on it and go get your self an Access Point wireless that can do 2.4 or 5Ghz and or both freqs and modes. The wired portion of the router is till good. Why not just keep it going and connect up and AP? One of the DAPs that Dlink has would probably work well to replace the wireless function on the router.

I presume that it's possible that most routers might drop down to the lowest speed if a non Gb device is attached for all the ports in back. It's possible that some routers aren'y designed to incorporate a smart switch as most external switches are made. So routers work at Gb connections until a non-Gb device is connected which means the switch portion of the router isn't smart enough to maintain a Gb connection on the other LAN ports. I would recommend in this case that if you have a mixed set of wired devices, get a external Gb switch that is smart and will keep Gb connections, regardless of 10/100/1000 devices.

[TonyRony]

... If you have a mixed set of wired devices, get a external Gb switch that is smart and will keep Gb connections, regardless of 10/100/1000 devices.

Furry ... You know, I had the very same thought, recently.  I had also thought about using an access point just as you also mentioned, but I feel that if the wireless sub-component died, we don't know when or what might fail next.  My current router might last five more years or only five more days.  So, since I'd have to invest in an access point, perhaps ... perhaps spending a little more for a whole new router might be better.

I think your best point, though, is the reminder that I might need to use a smart switch.  I know enough about networking to follow what you've said thus far, and based on my limited knowledge, I tend to agree with your ideas.  They make solid sense to me.

With that said, I think I now have enough info to make a more-informed choice.  I'd like to sincerely and generously say thank you for your time, effort, and expertise.  Two heads are almost always better than one.  Have a good day and a good weekend, sir.

Tony M.

[FurryNutz]

Glad to be of help and let us know what your choice is and hope it works well for you. And FYI, I bought a used DIR-825 and enjoying it now. 

[tjkaz]

I knew the DIR-655 was a Gigabit router, but I had heard that it would drop down to being a 10/100 speed router if any of the attached devices was not a Gigabit device.


Thanks and good day.

I actually use the 655 as a wireless access point and gigabit switch.  I can say for sure that the switch does NOT drop down if a lower capable device is connected to it.  For instance, I have both my desktop (Gb) and printer (100Mb) connected to the 655 switch ports and I get Gb on my desktop.
I'm using the B1 version of the router, so don't know if the same is true for the older 655's.
Good luck.

[TonyRony]

I can say for sure that the switch does NOT drop down if a lower capable device is connected to it.  For instance, I have both my desktop (Gb) and printer (100Mb) connected to the 655 switch ports and I get Gb on my desktop.  I'm using the B1 version of the router, so don't know if the same is true for the older 655's.
Good luck.

TJKAZ ... Well, that's great news.  Since my knowledge of networking is so limited, a tool for measuring throughput is not one of the utilities I have on hand.  Perhaps there's a built-in tool to measure connection speeds included with Windows?  But unfortunately, I hadn't researched this issue until asking this series of questions here in this forum.

Thank you for your valuable input.

[thecreator]

Hi TonyRony,

Since you allow your friend in, you are having problems.

What is the Hardware Revision of the Router? What is your Firmware Level?

If you upgraded your Router's Firmware, did you do a Factory Reset, afterwards. Lots of people forget to do this.

You need to manually input the information in the Router, after a Firmware Upgrade. You can't restore, otherwise you have problems.

Make sure that all devices are turned on, in order to reconnect to the Router. Make sure the Network Filter is off.

You will get Wireless N Connections, if you use WPA2 Only! Encryption. Read the sticky.

[TonyRony]

Hi TonyRony,

Since you allow your friend in, you are having problems.
What is the Hardware Revision of the Router? What is your Firmware Level?
If you upgraded your Router's Firmware, did you do a Factory Reset, afterwards. Lots of people forget to do this.
You need to manually input the information in the Router, after a Firmware Upgrade. You can't restore, otherwise you have problems.
Make sure that all devices are turned on, in order to reconnect to the Router. Make sure the Network Filter is off.
You will get Wireless N Connections, if you use WPA2 Only! Encryption. Read the sticky.

Creator ... Holy smoke!!!  I did nearly all of the things you said I should NOT do.  It's not that I thought I was smarter than anyone else; I just didn't know: (1) Do a factory reset after a firmware update? (2) Don't do a restore? (3) Manually input all the settings?  Wow!  I did the opposite for all three of these things.

Question, please: When you say I should do a Factory Reset after the firmware upgrade, are you referring to the recessed button behind the router, or do you mean the Restore Factory Defaults button located on the Tools > System screen?

Also, um, is there a trick to manually resetting all my options?  I always counted on using the Restore function, which you're instructing to not use.  So, I'm wondering whether people jot down all their settings on paper, or is there's a different, easier way to see/read all my settings?

By the way, you asked some questions: (1) The firmware update I loaded the other day is version 1.35NA and my H/W rev is A3.

Curiously, I learned about the firmware revision by visiting the D-Link Web site.  Using the built-in check on the Tools > Firmware screen indicated by version was current, but that was not correct.  I had been using version 1.33NA just before doing the update.

I can't thank you enough, Creator.  Thanks in advance for whatever additional info you can provide in response to my questions.  Thank you and have a great one!

Tony M.

[davevt31]

The Factory reset after the firmware flash ensure that you are starting with a "clean" router setup after the flash.  there have been some cases that after upgrading the flash the router will still show the old firmware version, doing a reset fixed that.  the button on back of the router or the Factory reset button in the router admin pages do the same so either way works.

Using a saved config file normally works fine when update do firmware updates that are in the same family 1.2X -> 1.2X+ but when doing a major update 1.2X ->1.3X the saved config may have settings that are no longer in the newer firmware and can cause more headaches than just manually entering the settings.

The 1.35NA firmware should be considered a major update because of the removal of SecureSpot  and using an older saved config will most likely cause problems.  I wished they would have numbered it 1.4x because of the securespot removal is a major change.

Ignore the check update feature and just come here for information on Firmware Updates.

[TonyRony]

Dave,

Thank you for your message.  I see your point regarding the firmware version numbers.

As for doing the Factory Reset, I suppose I'll have to read up on that topic a little more thoroughly to understand exactly when it's required.  I had always assumed that a Factory Reset would take you back to the way the router was configured as it came off the assembly line, including removal of firmware updates.  I realize, now, that I'm wrong about that.

Anyway, I'm going to try these suggestions from you and from "Creator" and perhaps the router is really just fine.  Thanks very much, Dave.

Tony M.