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[drhansenjr]

I have a DIR-655 router that has been fine the last couple of years -- until recently.  I have recently been getting frequent and consistent browser timeouts going to certain -- but not all -- websites.  When I bypass the router and plug my laptop directly into the ATT/Motorola DSL modem, I no longer have these problems.  I recently upgraded the firmware to the most recent version and did a hard reset of the router (after saving the settings to disk -- and the restored them after the reset).  The symptoms are the same whether I connect to the router wirelessly or using a wired connection. 

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks!

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.
What region are you located?
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Has a Factory Reset been performed?

What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT and How NAT Works.
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only or Disable IPv6 options under Setup/IPv6.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server feature. Tools/Time.

[drhansenjr]

What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router. >>> B1
Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status. >>> 2.10NA , 17, Oct, 2012
What region are you located? >>> Chicago area
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router? >>> Have tried both -- same result
Has a Factory Reset been performed? >>> Yes
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have? >>> ATT/Motorola 3360

[FurryNutz]

If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT and How NAT Works.
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.

[stromm]

So, I'm curious as to why my post from a few days ago was deleted...

I mentioned that the OP of this thread now makes three or four people having the same problem and that I resorted to using my old Linksys router which isn't crashing.

[FurryNutz]

And this helps the OP how?

Were here to help each other out and if all troubleshooting options have been exhausted, then D-Link support needs to be contacted. Lets see if the OP has any luck in getting his router working better with some on topic and concise troubleshooting suggestions.

If you have not been able to resolve your D-Link router issues, then it's advised that you phone contact D-Link support and get help.

Good Luck.

So, I'm curious as to why my post from a few days ago was deleted...

I mentioned that the OP of this thread now makes three or four people having the same problem and that I resorted to using my old Linksys router which isn't crashing.

[stromm]

It helps him by letting him know that he's not the only one with the same problem.

The deletion of my post boarders on what could be construed as a censorship attempt to hide that fact.  Especially considering that more than three people encountered the same issue within a narrow timeframe of each other.  And those people are from different regions, different ISPs, different cable modems... The common factor being the same model of router.

Just because I gave up, doesn't mean he or others will.  My router is years old (I inherited it from my father back in Aug. 2011) so its definitely out of warranty. Will D-Link try to solve my problem on their own dime?  I doubt it (based on more than ten years of my experience with their support service).

[FurryNutz]

Have you tried to contact D-Link support yet?

Not hiding anything, just making sure that help is being rendered in positive ways. There's many issues, mostly ISP or user configuration related. You assume that it's the routers fault when clearly not all the facts have been given. These routers do work well out of the box and with the most current version of FW. Not all users experience the same problems either. We are here to help trouble shoot the problem and after all has been exhausted, then users need to got to D-Link support directly for RMA and continued support.

We are currently waiting to see if any of the suggestion mention to the OP has helped in any way to resole this users problems.

Yours could probably be fixed too, however, Since you have moved on, Good luck in your endeavors.

Lets keep this ON topic,

Thank you.

[stromm]

1. Yes and I was told I'd have to pay for service since the router is out of warranty.

2. In my other post, I answered or followed all suggestions and nothing changed.  The only improvement comes with using a different router.  After my last post there, I took my D-Link router to two neighbors who have different cable modems and one even has a different provider.  It failed just as at my home.

3. You have shown multiple times that "routers don't just go bad". I know I'm only 43 and have only Ben professionally involved in IT since I was 15, but you are the first person I've encountered who seems to think that electronic devices never go bad.

4. If mine can be fixed too, I'm definitely interested in learning how.  But I'm not going to keep going over the same tests when I know they've already failed.

5. Notice, no where in any of my posts did I ever suggest or imply that others just give up.

[FurryNutz]

Then you have probably proven that your router needs to be either RMAd or tossed.

Just because you seem to have long standing experience in IT since 15 doesn't matter much here. I can say the same thing. I can also say I have "BEEN" a developer as well. Yes, I am probing for knowledge extend and user ability levels when helping users here. Not everyone on here has the same level of expertise when it comes to working in this environment. So most of these suggestions are simple user based and attempting to get everyone, regardless of experience, to follow the suggestions and provide detailed feedback as much as possible to exhaust troubleshooting in hopes of either finding the solution or going to D-Link support when it's beyond forum help. The more information and feed back we get from users, the better we can get an idea of what the situation is and then provide better feedback.

When I suggest that equipment doesn't go bad, I meant is that most of these unit are in good working condition and the a few things that may cause a unit to go bad and not by itself is environment or user configurations. I've never had a router go bad on me just out of the blue. And I test these routers hard too. Yes, HW eventually probably does go bad on it's own. Caps giving up, constant power cyclings or brown outs on the adapter. Those I have had go bad. Luckily, thats the only thing to go bad.  

Over all, this is on a competition on experiences and if we are better than one another. We are here to help each other gaining positive help and support for most of the common problems seen out here. Again, most of the problems are environment or user configurations. We are here to weed out the ones we can help resolve, then the ones we can't, it's up to the users and D-Link to take it to the next level, not the forums. If the router is out of warranty and all troubleshooting has been exhausted, then it's probably time to seek other solutions. And just by experiencing this issue doesn't mean all D-Link products are going to exhibit the same thing. D-Link has many great routers out there and they work well when set up and running. Again, environment and user configuration will impact this. Including non-Dlink Mfr HW.

Oh, BTW, if you went back to your old linksys router, It probably invalidates your argument that the linksys works over the 655 as they are different in HW and coding and if the linksys is old enough, probably doesn't have what's known as the "Good Neighbor Policy" code setting as most of D-Links routers do, save the Rev A model of the 655, 825 and DGL series. So if your linksys doesn't have this, then it's just the big brute on the block and it will work any where. Unfortunately the GNP was implemented and due to the big brutes on the block causing interferences so they came up with a rule and all routers need to play with each other. This could be a factor in your experiences as well.

I have tested a few user routers as a 2nd opinion option for those trusting me to receive there HW and run  tests to confirm any problems and issue. I'd be open to this if your really wanting to figure out what is wrong with your 655. If not then I would recommend trying out a different DIR series router. The 645 or 636 L are good 2.4Ghz only router. If you want or need 5Ghz, any of the DIR 8 series works well. Been testing the 826L and 868L lately. Everyone is also waiting with bated breathe for the new DGL-5500 gaming router to arrive.  

My 2 cents.
Good Luck.

1. Yes and I was told I'd have to pay for service since the router is out of warranty.

2. In my other post, I answered or followed all suggestions and nothing changed.  The only improvement comes with using a different router.  After my last post there, I took my D-Link router to two neighbors who have different cable modems and one even has a different provider.  It failed just as at my home.

3. You have shown multiple times that "routers don't just go bad". I know I'm only 43 and have only Ben professionally involved in IT since I was 15, but you are the first person I've encountered who seems to think that electronic devices never go bad.

4. If mine can be fixed too, I'm definitely interested in learning how.  But I'm not going to keep going over the same tests when I know they've already failed.

5. Notice, no where in any of my posts did I ever suggest or imply that others just give up.

[stromm]

Thank you for the reply. 

Good Neighbor Policy is defintely not an issue in my case.  WiFi is disabled and has never been enabled on this router.  This router sits between my cable modem (in the basement) and my gigabit switch which runs to multiple PCs and two other routers being used for WiFi access points (all of which have been disconnected during testing).

D-Link wanted me to pay them to even talk about RMA'ing my long out of warranty device.  Not something I see worthwhile (in my case) since I can buy a new in warranty device for not much more than the fee.

If I have time, I might switch one of my "APs" out with this and see if it hangs up when function just in that capacity.  If not, I may just keep it as a spare AP.  if it does fail, I'll let you know and get your contact info and send it to you.