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[stantalo]

And this happens with all wired connections?
Yes
Do you have access to the routers UI on wired connections?
No, only wireless

[FurryNutz]

So swapping out CAT 6 or CAT 5 cables doesn't effect anything?

Possible that the router is going bad... 

[stantalo]

That appears to be true... 

[FurryNutz]

Been a known issue with this model router and it's wired ports. Same thing with the 1533. Good units, just not good Ports. Not sure why they fail like this.

You may want to phone contact D-Link support and ask to see if there is any help, maybe in the form of an RMA.
If the unit it too far out of date with them, please consider a DIR-836L if you can get one. I found one on fleabay for $17.  Has same specs to 835 however has some cloud and media features that the 835 doesn't have. Good solid router. Another suggested router would be the DIR-868L Rev A. I see Canada has a Rev B version which the routers UI is different and is like this:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=59563.0

The new UI is less complex and more simplified. Rev B is not available on this side of the fence. 

Let us know how it goes...

[stantalo]

Thanks for the advice and all your help, I will definitely look into the models you suggested.

Do you have any idea if the DIR-835 can now be turned into a repeater?  Since the wireless still works, it would be nice to get some use out of it if I can.

[FurryNutz]

Unfortunately it can't be. FW doesn't support it. Only a wired AP which in this case. 

I think there is DD-WRT FW for this model router, you could check to see if they have any FW for it. I think they support repeating in there FW. Just be careful though. It's not recommended to flash any FW using wireless, however in this case you might try it.

You could try reloading FW and see if the LAN ports come back. I kind of doubt it though. 

[stantalo]

Thanks for all the tips, and your time.  I'll check out those options.

[FurryNutz]

Let us know what you end up doing.

Good Luck. 

[stantalo]

Am I wrong in thinking that the DIR-850L and the DIR-868L are basically the same when you remove the "advanced media" functions from the 868L?

[FurryNutz]

850L: Wi-Fi:  Up to 300 + 867Mbps
868L: Wi-Fi:  Up to 450 + 1300Mbps, SmartBeam technology and USB 3.0

[stantalo]

Perfect.  Thanks again.  I think I'm leaning towards the 850L for cost reasons, but we'll see how it works out.

[FurryNutz]

Sounds good. You could check out amazon or newegg. Sometimes you can find good deals on 868Ls, even new ones. if the price point is close to the 850L, You could go for the 868L Ay.  Hope either way you find something good.

Let us know what you get.

Cheers.

[FurryNutz]

Any status on this? 

Perfect.  Thanks again.  I think I'm leaning towards the 850L for cost reasons, but we'll see how it works out.

[dkannegi]

Have a DIR-835, on the second one and it is on its way out like the first which has its wired ports died.  The first router ran stock firmware v1.02 and v1.04, lasted 11 months, the current one is running DD-WRT and so far lasted 15 months. Got a TP-link AP on order to replace this one so now its time to experiment with it in its dying days to see if I can make it last a little longer until its replacement arrives.  Router is used only as an AP and all unneeded features except for WMM are turned off. 

I took it apart, and noticed the LAN and WAN ports are wired right into the main CPU on the board after the chokes.  This happened to be the hottest chip by touch on the board and all it had for a heat sink was a 0.5 sq in thin ceramic plate (this is absolute junk for heat transfer).

Mode of operation: Access Point (routing disabled), WPA2/PSK personal, WAN disabled, 5Ghz channel 137 - 802.11n HT40 300Mbps, 2.4Ghz disabled, gigabit Cat5e on port 1.  Internet connection is very healthy 200/10 nat'd through a 3.2Ghz Core2 Duo PfSense box and my tests max the connection over the wifi.

The Experiment:
Steps taken:
1. I re-flowed the board with a heatgun, focusing on the main CPU, suspecting that thermal stresses probably cracked the SMD mounted CPU's mini solder-ball joints.
2.  Added a modified copper heat sink + TIM stolen from a piece of **** 100W Mastercraft car inverter, all held down by tape+elastic band over the main PCB
3.  Router relocated to open space (it used to be in a cabinet with the doors wide open).

Currently the router doesn't make it past 24 hours without a lockup of the CPU and the connection dropping.

Validation:  Lets see how long it goes till the next crash.  Next time it crashes or in a week I'll update the thread. 

Cheers,

Donald

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What region are you located?

Did you remove the ceramic tab heat sink then apply the metalic heat sink?
Did you apply thermal compound between the chip and metal heat sink? This is crucial to get the best heat transfer from the chip to the heat sink.
FYI: http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56166.0

Have a DIR-835, on the second one and it is on its way out like the first which has its wired ports died.  The first router ran stock firmware v1.02 and v1.04, lasted 11 months, the current one is running DD-WRT and so far lasted 15 months. Got a TP-link AP on order to replace this one so now its time to experiment with it in its dying days to see if I can make it last a little longer until its replacement arrives.  Router is used only as an AP and all unneeded features except for WMM are turned off. 

I took it apart, and noticed the LAN and WAN ports are wired right into the main CPU on the board after the chokes.  This happened to be the hottest chip by touch on the board and all it had for a heat sink was a 0.5 sq in thin ceramic plate (this is absolute junk for heat transfer).

Mode of operation: Access Point (routing disabled), WPA2/PSK personal, WAN disabled, 5Ghz channel 137 - 802.11n HT40 300Mbps, 2.4Ghz disabled, gigabit Cat5e on port 1.  Internet connection is very healthy 200/10 nat'd through a 3.2Ghz Core2 Duo PfSense box and my tests max the connection over the wifi.

The Experiment:
Steps taken:
1. I re-flowed the board with a heatgun, focusing on the main CPU, suspecting that thermal stresses probably cracked the SMD mounted CPU's mini solder-ball joints.
2.  Added a modified copper heat sink + TIM stolen from a piece of **** 100W Mastercraft car inverter, all held down by tape+elastic band over the main PCB
3.  Router relocated to open space (it used to be in a cabinet with the doors wide open).

Currently the router doesn't make it past 24 hours without a lockup of the CPU and the connection dropping.

Validation:  Lets see how long it goes till the next crash.  Next time it crashes or in a week I'll update the thread. 

Cheers,

Donald