Yes, I changed sensitivity setting to "Low:<10lux" (Advanced > ICR > Automatic). It's better but the problem persists.
The only solution: Detetion mode at normal hours with best video quality and best frame rate , continuous mode/recording at dusk and dawn with standart video and lower frame rate. The only problem is... can't schedule detetion mode! Buuuuuu 
I mentioned sensitivity, and also the day/night threshold, which may have confused things.
The sensitivity I meant to turn down is the motion detection sensitivity. On the Motion Detection setup page, there's 2 numbers, "Sensitivity", and "Percentage". If I recall, the factory setting on Sensitivity was 85%. I currently have mine set to 69%. I don't recall the factory percentage (10% ?), but I lowered mine to 7%. I've adjusted both up and down if I get too much false triggering, or missed events.
As I read the interaction of these, I think the factory setting requires a small change over a larger area to trigger.
My change I think requires a larger change, in a smaller area.
Small change over a large area sounds like the noise (snow, static) you might see at dusk and dawn. My camera was initially triggering on that too sometimes, but with the settings I have now, it doesn't.
This is motion detection sensitivity is separate from the ICR Sensitivity setting on the Advanced ICR page. The reason I mentioned that is if you get false triggering in night mode you might try making it stay in day mode until darker. Or if false triggering in day mode, try making it change to night sooner. In my case, I was getting false triggering in night mode.
Also, are you sure if your IR Cut Filter is working? Mine wasn't. Out of the 5 cameras I've bought, one (my DCS-2332L) turned out to be bad. The IR Cut filter didn't switch, and the Wifi was very poor (it worked poorly for a while, then wouldn't connect at all anymore, even when right near my router). I got an RMA number and shipped it back for exchange. When the IR Cut filter didn't work, the camera still switched to black and white, and the IR LED still came on, but night vision was very poor. And the triggering on noise at dusk/dawn was much worse because the picture at night (dusk/dawn) was much more snowy. The replacement has triggered on noise a bit too until I adjusted the motion detection sensitivity down, but not nearly as bad. And the Wifi on the replacement works much better. To confirm if the IR Cut filter works, you should hear a click when it switches between day and night, or look into the lens when it switches to verify (cover the light sensor to make it switch, or use the setup function or cellphone app to switch day/night manually). You should be able to see a blue filter in the lens in day mode, this moves out of the way in night mode and the lens looks clear. My first camera was stuck and the blue filter was there all the time. If you hear a click when it switches, or you can see a difference inside the lens between day and night mode, your camera is OK.
As user JavaLawyer said in this post:
"mydlink simply provides a portal to start a direct-connection between mobile/remote clients. Once a client logs into mydlink, there is a direct pipe from the camera to the client."
I think it always gets files/video directly from camera, just acts like an interface to be easier to clients. I made the test with local network, the downloading time of the video is almost the same, mydlink VS acessing through https://camera_ip_adress
If you can see the page source code of mydlink > playback. You see that the thumbnail video links directly to the camera, same as the SD Card management. Only one gets played in a wmp browser addon at mydlink, the other gets downloaded to PC.
That's good to know, thanks.
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Topic: My DCS-2332L experience - wishlist and bugs (Read 24023 times)