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[powerlinebox]

So I got it today and installed the router. My signal is quite low for some reasons. How do I know if AC Beam and other functions are on for this router? I upgraded from my previous DIR-655 router so I don't see much difference except 1 signal bar better. Currently firmware is 1.00, should i bother upgrading and what are the advantages?

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What region are you located?

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N on 5Ghz?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Any cordless house phones?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, HT 20/40 Co-exhistance and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
• Enable WMM Enable Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
• Try setting Medium or Low power output settings and test again Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

3rd Party Security Software Configurations

• Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
• Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
6" minimum safe distance between devices.

The features of the WiFi are automatic and are always ON by default. There is no settings or status to check other than the WiFi status under Status/Wireless.

The differences you are seeing could be related to something else and not to the routers WiFi. If you have seen issues with a previous router, I presume issues are else where.

Lets see what you can give us in feed back and try some of the suggestions before upgrading. I've had this router with shipping FW and WiFi has been rock solid.

[powerlinebox]

Everything is set up as the way it is using the set up wizard. WPA with AES/TKIP key encryption. SSID was set too. Channels are running in automatic. Some wireless devices are desktops, laptops, and cellphones so about 4-5 devices running. Yes, we have a Panasonic cordless house phone connected to a VoIP modem. We have 1-2 wireless routers in the area. Currently on high power amplifier.

[powerlinebox]

Oh yes, I am from Toronto, Canada.

[FurryNutz]

Could be some interferences being caused by other devices on or near 2.4Ghz. Do you have any devices on 5Ghz? Same issue here?

For those devices that have wireless adapter cards with drivers, ensure the drivers are up to date as well.

Try setting the HT20/40 Co-exhistance option to disable and retest as well.

What are the distances between the devices and the router?

[powerlinebox]

The only connection issue I am having is basement. Router is on main floor. No 5GHz devices, however, my SSID for 5GHz is on. My house is about 3000 SQ FT, it's a reason why I bought the router so it can amplify the signal. However, still having an issue with my basement studio computer with 2 bars, my previous router, gave me 3-4 bars

[FurryNutz]

If your not using 5Ghz you should disable it.

Try disabling the HT 20/40 option and re-test.

What are the operating frequencies of the host cordless phones?

What are the distances between the devices and the router?

[Doctor Doom]

The 868L should be comparable to the 655 on the 2.4GHz band. The 655 does not have a 5Ghz band so there is a difference there. The 868L's raw routing throughput is also much better. In order to take advantage of AC Smartbeam you need an AC adapter. From a 2.4GHz perspective, the 868L in all locations should provide better throughput than the 655.

In other words, if you ran a wireless filecopy from a laptop 10 feet away to a wired PC, the file should transfer faster than the 655. This should also be the case at further distances as well. To complicate the matter even more, the results may not be significantly better if say you are using a wireless G adapter or a low cost N150 adapter because the bottleneck is the adapter.

When it comes to wireless technology, your mileage will vary. I've put multiple routers against eachother and depending on where I am testing, the results vary except when comparing a low end router against a high end, the results are then fairly black and white.


If your goal is to get wireless coverage in 1-2 areas within the home on the 2.4 GHz band,  DAP-1320's may do the trick. Small, affordable and does the job if you are just looking for signal strength.