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[Vigilante]

My current home network setup is as follows:
Motorola SB 6121 (Cable - ISP provides 50 down / 2 up)
D'Link DGL 5500

Initially, speeds when testing (iMac connected wirelessly / AC mode) were spot on (50 down / 2 up).  Over time, the speeds will decrease significantly where I only get between 8 - 15 down / 2 up) when testing (iMac connected wirelessly / AC mode).  After resetting the router (via MAINTENANCE, SYSTEM, RESTART THE DEVICE), my speeds are right where they should be (50 down / 2 up) when running a speed test (iMac connected wirelessly / AC mode).

I know it's less than ideal to check speeds wirelessly.  Any idea why they might be where they should be initially, and after time are degraded significantly until a RESTART THE DEVICE is completed?

Streamboost: ENABLED
Enable Auto Bandwidth Estimation:  DISABLED (not checked)

Thanks for help / troubleshooting tips.

[Turbo101e]

Fisth disable streamboost.
Then if issue still stand .
Update firmware.

[Vigilante]

Update firmware.

I've been using the latest firmware. I will disable STREAMBOOST and see if that makes a difference.

[Turbo101e]

Streamboost  is a complit disaster.
If a enable a get Log (notice) pe_Loop: add_msg returned 0.
       (notice) pe_Loop: Got add message
        (notice) pe_Loop: add_msg returned 0.
in my case this Burn 15GB ove bandwitch evry day?

[Vigilante]

Disabling Streamboost made no difference.  My download speed still decreases significantly however, my upload speed is always right where it should be (2 up).

[Vigilante]

I was able to figure it out....

[fa11en]

what did you find?

[Vigilante]

It wasn't without a few hours of troubleshooting over a few days.  In the end, I ended up changing the wireless channels of the router / access points.  I also changed the 2.4 GHz wireless radio from AUTO 20/40 MHz to 20 MHz. 

During the process, I determined that my wired speeds were indeed where they should be (50 down / 2 up), but wireless speeds were "degraded" over time (10-25 down / 2 up).  For sh*ts and giggles, I disabled the wireless on my iMac (using 5Ghz AC) and reenabled the wireless.  After running a speediest, my wireless speeds were they should be (50 down / 2 up).  I also enabled SPI in the FIREWALL settings, but highly doubt that had anything to do with it.

Since Saturday, I haven't had to disable wireless / reenable wireless on my iMac.  All is still good as of this post.

[FurryNutz]

If you made any changes to wireless, then that maybe a symptom of possible interferences from neighboring WiFi routers. It would have been helpful if you could have gave feed back before to questions regarding this in prior posts about your WiFi surroundings. Would have helped us help you narrow the problems down sooner.

InSSIDer is a great help in cases like this. Sounds like its working better now on wifi.

Always test speeds using a wired LAN connection. There are many factors in WiFi that lead to inaccurate results. 

I'd check your band width settings, if you can find a open and clear channel on 1, 6 or 11, you should be able to use Auto 20/40Mhz. Use 20Mhz will slow the speeds down some and connection rates.

[Vigilante]

If you made any changes to wireless, then that maybe a symptom of possible interferences from neighboring WiFi routers. It would have been helpful if you could have gave feed back before to questions regarding this in prior posts about your WiFi surroundings. Would have helped us help you narrow the problems down sooner.

InSSIDer is a great help in cases like this. Sounds like its working better now on wifi.

Always test speeds using a wired LAN connection. There are many factors in WiFi that lead to inaccurate results. 

I'd check your band width settings, if you can find a open and clear channel on 1, 6 or 11, you should be able to use Auto 20/40Mhz. Use 20Mhz will slow the speeds down some and connection rates.

Sorry about that.  I realized I didn't provide info about neighboring WiFi routers.  I do use inSSIDer, and have been for quite some time.  Every few months i fire it up and check the displayed info / stats / situation.  Thank goodness I had it installed / purchased on my iMac before they pulled it from the Mac App Store  .  WHEW!!!

I did try channels 1, 6, and 11 using the AUTO 20/40 MHz settings.  inSSIDer is reporting that most neighboring WiFi routers are using channels 1, 6, or 11.  Most, if not all my devices connected to my WiFi are N or AC.  As a matter of fact, I don't think I have any B or G devices.  Does the 20/40 MHz channel matter much if it's just N or AC devices connecting to the WiFi??  When running a speedtest on any of the wireless devices (IPhones / iPads / etc), I didn't notice any difference in speed when having AUTO 20/40 Mhz vs 20 MHz.

I'll keep "tinkering", as I would rather keep AUTO 20/40 MHz as my default setting.   

[FurryNutz]

There is a reason why I ask and post those questions and now you know why.  Maybe you can explain that to DarkPGR and help him to understand that more feedback he gives and let us help him the better off he'll be. However I presume he may have moved on since he can't seem to get his router working well. I presume it's a configuration problem as well on his part. 

Yes, if you change the width to 20Mhz only, then you decrease the connection rates between the router and device to lower speed rates.
If all of your devices are N supporting, then change from Mixed mode to single N, disable HT-20/40Mhz Coexistence and use Auto Channel width, WPA2 and AES only for the best and fastest connection rates between your devices and the router. Most devices now days support this configuration.

Channels on 2.4Ghz need to be open and clear or the farthest neighboring WiFi router would be ok. Having more neighbors on the channels will effect how the router and your connected devices operate. If you have many, then we call this WiFi congestion...

Please review this and the impeded links with in each post for information about channels, channel width and WiFi congestion for better understanding of it:
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

Under Wireless Considerations, there is a couple of links to smallnetbuilder about channel width.

[Vigilante]

There is a reason why I ask and post those questions and now you know why. 

Yes, if you change the width to 20Mhz only, then you decrease the connection rates between the router and device to lower speed rates.
If all of your devices are N supporting, then change from Mixed mode to single N, disable HT-20/40Mhz Coexistence and use Auto Channel width, WPA2 and AES only for the best and fastest connection rates between your devices and the router. Most devices now days support this configuration.

Channels on 2.4Ghz need to be open and clear or the farthest neighboring WiFi router would be ok. Having more neighbors on the channels will effect how the router and your connected devices operate. If you have many, then we call this WiFi congestion...

Please review this and the impeded links with in each post for information about channels, channel width and WiFi congestion for better understanding of it:
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

Under Wireless Considerations, there is a couple of links to smallnetbuilder about channel width.

I'll keep this in mind as I "tinker"   

[FurryNutz]

 

[mrjezza]

Just be 100% sure that all your devices support N if you are going to switch it to N only.  I didn't realise my 3DSXL only supported B/G and had a frustrating few days googling and tinkering trying to 'fix' what I thought was an issue with the 3DS

[FurryNutz]

Thats correct, also if you need to run mixed mode, Enable HT 20/40Mhz Coexistence or you'll starve the G mode WiFi data.