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[Reppy07]

Hello. I am new and hope I am abiding to guidelines. But I really need help and feel so close to achieving my goal (Whatever that goal MAY achieve)

Basically put, I want to (hopefully) get an OPEN NAT on my PS4. It remains at NAT Type 2 (Moderate) no matter what I have done. DMZ, portforwarding, disabled all firewall etc etc. The basic stuff.


Essentially to cap up on my current setup-

I'm running Eastlink FiberOp (80/8 Mbps) in an apartment. Apartment uses coaxial cable, not sure if it uses MoCa or not, don't even fully understand what that is but that's another story that can wait. The setup is fairly simple right now.

++Wall/Coaxial--- Coaxial to Modem w/ built in Router (DG1670)++ That's it. And I am now trying to connect my DLink router to it to use for internet and still be able to use the Modem for internet. And if not possible to have both, I would still prefer having the DLink be the one to give me internet so as to bypass anything the Modem does, or stops or slows. Not sure the case. There will be a link shown to point out what I mean for bypassing (DLink forums)

I do also have a splitter and MoCa filter for our cable receiver which WAS installed as well but I took those out of the equation. The setup for that was fairly simple as well. (Just bringing it up in case it becomes relevant or not) and hopefully be told that this DOES IN FACT cause some kind of latency or something.
++Wall/Coaxial--- Coaxial to MoCa Filter--- Splitter--- Side A went to modem--- Side B went to Receiver

Anywho, I have a DIR 820L (Just upgraded to newest firmware) for a router and I know that Arris modems don't like external routers but I have come across this link >>> http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50682.0  <<<
And the particular thing I have NOT tried is "if the Arris modems Web page is accessible by a user, and if the modem has a DMZ option, a user could input the external routers WAN IP address it gets from the Arris modem into the Arris modems DMZ. This will help bypass any Arris modem management and processing and should open up everything to the external router."

Unfortunately, that's where it stops. It doesn't clearly define what to do. I've done manual setup and setup a static IP for the external router. It's currently connected to the WAN port fed from the Modem. I have no problem accessing either Modem and DLink's user webpages, even simultaneously. The PS4's internet works when connected to the modem, but alas, does not connect to the internet when connected to the External Router.

What am I missing? I have the WAN IP of the external Router in the Modem's DMZ and went as far as to put the PS4's static IP into the external router's DMZ. But no luck. This is where I am stuck...
-----------------------------------
In the Status Page (DLink)----

WAN
Connection Type: Static IP
Cable Status: Connected
Network Status:    Connected
Connection Up Time:    0 Day, 0:49:12
MAC Address: *********
IP Address: 192.168.0.90
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway: 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS Server: 64.178.142.10 (From ISP)
Secondary DNS Server: 24.207.0.167 (From ISP)

LAN
MAC Address: ********
IP Address: 192.168.1.90
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
DHCP Server: Enabled
-------------------------------------
In the Status Page (Arris)----

WAN Status Summary
WAN MAC Address: *********
Connection Setup: dynamic / dynamic
IP Address: (Given by ISP, not sure if it's safe to post this or not)
Subnet Mask: 255.255.248.0
Domain Name: eastlink.ca   
Primary DNS: 64.178.142.10 / :: (That's literally a copy and paste)   
Secondary DNS: 24.207.0.167 / :: (That's literally a copy and paste)
Tertiary DNS: 0.0.0.0 / :: (Copy and paste as well)
Gateway: (Similar to IP Address, not sure if it's safe to post this or not)

LAN Status Summary
IP Address: 192.168.0.1 / ::
DHCP Server: Enabled
DNS Relay: Disabled
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
UPnP: Enabled
Number of Lan Clients: 1

I hope this is all the information I need to give, if not I can give more. Hopefully someone can clue me in as to what I'm missing or doing wrong. Please..   

*Edit*
I have asked my ISP about getting a different modem, but that seems to be out of the question. I do have another DLink router (DIR 825) but was setup as an access point previously. Scared to reset it as it's not as simple to set up from factory as coaxial doesn't exactly fit in it lol. What is said above is about all I have, and hopefully can be achieved. I've already tried to use an access point and put it in the Modem's DMZ, but doesn't seem to affect anything for the better or for the worse. The link and quote after the link is literally (I believe) the last thing I have not yet tried. So here's to hoping.

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
• Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
• What region are you located?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values
• For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
• If the ISP modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT and How NAT Works. To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ. Also check the routers DHCP IP address maybe conflicting with the ISP modems IP address of 192.168.0.1. Check to see if this is the same on the ISP modem, and if modem can't be bridged, change the DIR router to 192.168.1.1 or .0.254.
  Example of a D-Link router configured for PPPoE with ISP Modem bridged: PPPoE Configuration on a Router

[Reppy07]

Hello. I have read that whole paragraph as well (which I believe was made my you in a link I had previously followed) but had no such luck. I'm not all that tech savvy so a lot of that makes it harder to understand I may be doing wrong.

I have tried to bridge the modem (ISP had to do it from their end but had no luck unless there was something we missed), they said MTU was to be left at 1500.
My speeds are 80 Mbps down and 8 Mbps Up. On peak hours can drop down to 20 Mbps down. The exact model of my DLink router is **DIR 820L AC1000**. Hardware version is **A1**. Have download the most recent firmware which is "1.05".

I just cannot figure out where exactly I'm missing something.

[FurryNutz]

How about swapping LAN cables between the ISP modem and router?

Other than this, possible that the router could be faulty. If the ISP modem is giving a IP address to the router, the globe should turn green after it's connected.

Only other idea would be to test the router at a different location, say at a friends, neighbor or families place to see if the router works there or not.

[Reppy07]

I'm using all CAT5e's for cables and have tried testing the router at my brother's place. It seemed to be working fine there, and he's a networking engineer or something (can't remember the exact title). Would love for him to come to my place to look at it but it's hard to catch him when he's free.

It's hard to imagine the router to be faulty, it is next to brand new and barely used. Never modified and rarely ever had settings changed on it.

But maybe I need to understand this a bit simpler as I think I may be overthinking it (not really tech savvy honestly but learning).

If I were to go back to factory defaults, as if I were to be taking out of the box for the first time.

- How would I know exactly what WAN IP address it were given?
- Is this the WAN IP address I would put into my ISP's modem's DMZ?
- And where should my ethernet cable be plugged into the router? A: LAN port or B: WAN port? To give it access to internet and hopefully bypass the modem entirely?

[FurryNutz]

I'm using all CAT5e's for cables and have tried testing the router at my brother's place. It seemed to be working fine there, and he's a networking engineer or something (can't remember the exact title). Would love for him to come to my place to look at it but it's hard to catch him when he's free.
Good that means the router is good. Good test there.

It's hard to imagine the router to be faulty, it is next to brand new and barely used. Never modified and rarely ever had settings changed on it.

But maybe I need to understand this a bit simpler as I think I may be overthinking it (not really tech savvy honestly but learning).

If I were to go back to factory defaults, as if I were to be taking out of the box for the first time.

- How would I know exactly what WAN IP address it were given?
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.

- Is this the WAN IP address I would put into my ISP's modem's DMZ? Yes
- And where should my ethernet cable be plugged into the router? A: LAN port or B: WAN port? WAN Port, the Yellow port.

To give it access to internet and hopefully bypass the modem entirely? I'd ask your ISP about bridging the modem if possible. If you can then DMZ won't be needed. Maybe ask them about getting into a new modem. Motorola SB 6141 is recommended for cable ISP systems. I highly recommend them.

[Reppy07]

I cannot thank you enough for your help.

I couldn't get them to put it into bridge mode (they're not trained for it and wanted me to pay 90 bucks a month for a service called "beyond tech support") and I finally said s***w them, google here I come again.

End result? The modem is successfully bridged, I did have to call them back to FULLY turn the router portion off entirely (known bug is that if a power bump or anything that would cause it to refresh even at a seconds moment would turn the wifi on it back on). Got lucky and spoke to a guy who was well aware of that and got the specified technician on their end to do it. So that was awesome.

Finally came time to test the Xbox One as it was always "strict nat" no matter what I did. Set the router up, and bam. OPEN NAT. Was super happy.

BUT! Now comes another issue. This means that my NAT is behind a cone which from my knowledge and understanding is the IDEAL for gaming. So I go to test the PS4. Now the Nat is still at moderate for it. And for unknown reasons, the speedtest for it are literally in the Kbps region when before bridging the modem the speedtests for the PS4 were always consistent between 16 to 24 Mbps. And a newly found error code emerged.

"The router in use may not support IP Packet Fragmentation, and some of the network features in the PS4 may be restricted"

Is there a setting to turn this on or off in my DLink DIR 820L? I have looked but could not find anything to resemble it unless I keep missing it.

Googling that error message around gave mixed suggestions, such as changing MTU values, turning the "block fragmented packets" off (which I could not see) and getting an entirely new router.

So I'm hoping this is the final thing I need help with and sincerely appreciate all the help so far. Everything else is running just fine in the apartment. Laptops, Xbox One, my brother's Xbox 360 is even Open NAT now because of the bridging. Cell phones. Etc all work fine. But PS4 is far worse off than ever before because of that one error code I believe. So what do you suggest I try next?

Thank you again sir!

[FurryNutz]

You may need to set up some QoS rules for your XBL and Sony PS services and one for ALL other devices.

Review these first and then we'll go from there:
 DIR-645/835/868L/865L/826L Gaming and QoS for XBL

I think you need to use the Muti-Global XBL rule example for xboxes using the 65.52.0.1 thru 65.55.255.254 range.
Another rule for PS using Global rule that has 0.0.0.0 thru 255.255.255.254 remote IP range.
And one rule for ALL other devices using the the ALL other devices example.

[Reppy07]

But XBL and everything else runs smooth as silk.

It's only the 2 PS4's having issues. It's just weird. I should also point out that another thing to have come up in the mixed suggestions was to turn OFF QoS when PS3/PS4 gets that weird message "The router in use may not support IP packet fragmentation etc".

I'm open to assume that this particular router may not be the best choice for gaming. Xbox One loves it. 360 loves it. Laptops love it. Mobiles will be mobiles lol.

But there is no such setting on this router to turn off "block fragmentation packets" is there?

[FurryNutz]

Actually this router is good for gaming as it doe have QoS that can be set up and adjusted.

I would first set up one QoS rule for the PS and see if you can get open NAT and see if that message goes away.

Reserve an IP address for the PSr at 192.168.0.197. If there is any networking reset or PS4 reset feature, engage this feature, then turn OFF the PS4.
Ensure uPnP is enabled under Advanced/Advanced Networking.
Disable SPI under Advanced/Firewall for now. If there is any Endpoint settings, Set for Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP if you see this feature.

Set a QoS rule for name for SonyPS
Local IP address range value set to 192.168.0.197 to 192.168.0.197
Remote IP address range value set to 0.0.0.1 to 255.255.255.254
Queue ID set to High
Protocol Port set to ALL
Application Port set to ALL
Ensure you select the empty check box on the left side to enable this rule. Save settings and reboot the router. After the router is back to ready, turn ON the PS4 and check NAT status.

I don't know if Sony change how it does NAT status, however before there was levels of NAT that PS2 and 3 would show I think. Attainting level1 could not be done due to a router being in the middle. Only 1 could be obtained by connecting the PS directly to the ISP modem. I presume it may have changed on the PS4.

[Reppy07]

You are correct on the last sentence .

Or at least in my experience it is. I have switched my router and used my DIR 825. All settings are the same except I was also able to set firewall to endpoints UDP and TCP. Wish my other router had that.

I believe my 820L may be defective in some way or was always missing something. Although my 825 didn't get an NAT type 1 and remained on NAT type 2, I was successfully achieving the usual speeds and online gameplay for destiny was very very smooth and better than before.

But it is nice to have this modem set into bridge mode because I am able to use the extra 3 ports for both PS4's and X1 and they all now have open NAT (Type 1 for PS4)! And router is fully functional and still gives my brothers 360 an open NAT through the switch in the living room.

All settings are automatic on the systems and router is almost stock settings. Only things I changed was allowing IPv4 multicast and changed firewall to endpoints.

Again. I am very very happy. And thank you for your help. This was one heck of a struggle and headache. Lol.

So that's done now.

But I do have an easy question for you to answer.

If I were to forward ports on the router for say, destiny or call of Duty. Would it make any difference if the game systems are plugged into the modem?

I would imagine no since there's no middle man to interrupt anything, but am curious anyways.

[FurryNutz]

I presume that if you set up QoS for the PS4, it would achieve the same results as the 825 does.

QoS does alot of port and handling along with uPnP enabled. Just needs to be set up is all. I have the DIR-810L and 826L based on same FW code as the 820L. I use the QoS configuration for all of my gaming PC and Xbox. Never had any issues with them. And they don't have the Endpoint features either...I just don't have a PS4 is all. 360 and XB1 now.

[Reppy07]

But if I'm plugged directly into the modem, does port forwarding or using QoS even do anything from the router?

[FurryNutz]

If the ISP modem is bridged, then you should be plugged in to the router, not the modem. if your ISP modem is not bridged and your connected to the DIR router, then this will not work. You have to have a single NAT configuration for QoS or any Port Forwarding to work correctly.

Prefer connection configuration:
ISP modem(bridged or DMZ if bridge is supported)>DIR-820L<>connected devices.
QoS configured for devices.

[Reppy07]

Thank you for the advice and is noted =)

Thank you again for all the help. So happy to finally have it all setup to the way I envisioned it and to achieve what everyone believed to be impossible in my area lol.