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[John877]

Ok I hope I dont forget something here so let me explain the situation now. For thepast month or two we have been having issues with the router restarting on its own. This has happened with a different router too but that one didnt completely restart like the D-Link DIR-655 does. That other router was a WNDR3800 from Netgear.
I have checked the logs on the D-Link and saw what will be posted below. I dont know what all those lines with m_table  in means  but theres a lot of them and it seems to happen a lot whatever it is.

For setup information:
ISP: Comcast Cable
Modem: Cisco/Linksys DPC3008 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Router: D-Link DIR-655
Router has one computer plugged into it, then a cord leading to an 8-port switch which has a wireless router plugged to it in AP mode only though. The switch has 3 computers plugged into it and an XBox 360 and handles wireless for a laptop and about 3-4 Android devices. The DIR router also handles wireless for 1-2 Android devices too.

As a diagnostic measure I have done a firmware update from 2.01NA (which it came with when I bought it) to 2.11NA (most current as of this writing). Did a full reset with the pinhole button on the back of the router and then used the wizard to set up the internet connection (DHCP setup) and made the necessary wireless changes and left everything else as off or default.  The problem persisted. The longest connection uptime we have had with the DIR router is like 14 hours.
As further diagnostic measures the switch in the other room and the  router in AP mode have all been restarted multiple times or reset to factory and redone into AP mode.
We have eliminated some software on individual machines as being the possible culprits as it persisted without those software running. one of the software being Rainmeter with a ping utility set up to monitor pings to see if internet was lagging.

I have been browsing a few topics here that seemed to be related but not exactly related to my problem and some were suggesting the issue is in fact with the modem itself which I can see since this issue persisted across use of 2 different routers. Something I had just thought of a bit ago is that I think around the time this all started was when Comcast rolled out a speed tier upgrade at no cost which doubled our speeds. We subscribed to the 25/5 originally and now get 50/5. Im thinking maybe something got dorrupted in the config file or something  but i dont know how to check that without paying to have someone come out to check it out and possibly swap modems and theres no guarantee that will have fixed it too.

Anyway I hope I have included enough information but if theres something more needed then just ask.

The DIR logs will be below and the Signal information from the modem too.

Thanks.


DIR Log Info:  http://privatepaste.com/709ffc7674
Modem Information:  http://i.imgur.com/u5q1hye.png

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What region are you located?
• Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
• Has a Factory Reset been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

>FW Update Process

• Was the router working before any firmware updates?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For DSL or Fiber service lines, ensure that the ISP is using good working phone or cable lines to the DSL modem and that the phone lines are filtered correctly. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. I recommend having the ISP service physically check the lines going from the out side to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.

Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Besure to log into the Admin account on the router.

• Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options, Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
• Enable or Disable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) and test under Setup/Internet/Manual. Disable may help with speed performance on higher speed ISP services.
• Turn on or off DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
• Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.
• Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
• If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only under Setup/IPv6.
• Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI to test.
• Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
• Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
• WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
• Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server feature. The DST setting is only needed in the NA region. Tools/Time.

 
Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• What wireless devices do you have connected?
• Ensure any devices with WiFi adapter drivers are updated.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials

[John877]

Yes a factory reset was performed, however I did not do it prior to the firmware update or after for a while. It was only a bit after we still were having issues that I did the full factory reset. All cabling in the network is CAT6 with the exception apparently to the XBox360 which is CAT5E. ISP MTU is set correctly at 1500 as per the wizard detecting everything.
Router worked fine last time we used it prior to the Netgear router  we used for a while.
If this is any way relevant here is the BroadbanReports Line Quality test results:  http://i.imgur.com/6O988pD.png

4 computers and the XBox are wired connections, the Android devices are obviously wireless and the laptop is a wireless connection as well.
Wireless settings are all working properly, I would have it set to AES only but the kindle device needs TKIP I guess. I do have it set to G and N even though I think only the laptop uses N and the rest are all G.
Wireless is in 20/40 mode and Mixed G and N currently as theres no B devices around.
QoS has been off and on, didnt matter for this issue. It is currently ON but theres no rules set up.
DNS Relay has been on and off, and didnt change anything.  Also was using Googles DNS and ISP DNS as well, no change.
IPv6 was set up and thoguht to be an issue so I have set that to Local Connection Only and that didnt affect anything either.
WISH was on for the XBox streaming  but I have tried that turned off as well and no change.
WAN port is set to either Auto or 10/100/1000, i forget.
Time has been set and uses an NTP server too.

[FurryNutz]

Any 2.4Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?

What generation is the xbox 360? 1st, Slim or 3rd gen E series?
Disable Traffic Shaping and QoS and test...

Remove the 8 port switch and turn OFF the other wireless AP and test for the reboot.
What channel is the 655 using and what channel is the 2ndary wireless AP using?
What is the distance between the 655 and the other AP?

FYI for xbox:
 Gaming and QoS for XBL

[John877]

Theres no 2.4ghz cordless phones anymore as we ditched our landline but I used to have one sitting right next to the router before and it never caused any problems.  *shrug*
The only other wifi router plugged in is about 25feet away on the other side of a chimney and through a wall so Id imagine thats not causing an issue but it is plugged into the switch in there so its on the network as an Access Point only.  Its an ASUS RT-N15  btw

The XBox360 is the regular kind, not the slim or black or whatever series.
I have had QoS off and on with no change.

If I remove the switch from the network then more than half the house has no internet. It is literally handling 90% of the devices in the house and the desktops dont have wifi cards.
Wireless Settings are as such:  http://i.imgur.com/DDz2V9k.png

I guess I could try using the Netgear router in AP mode temporarily instead of the switch to eliminate those devices being a cause but some devices wont get connected like the xbox though.   :/

[FurryNutz]

• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear on the 655. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 1 for the 2ndary AP.
• Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.

[John877]

The 655 is on Ch9 and dunno what channel the AP is on at the moment. The people whos room its in right now are asleep so I cant check but I was gonna just have them unplug it anyway.

When I scan for networks in the area with my phone I come up with 2-3 from neighbors but no idea what channels theyre on. The only PC with wifi on is the laptop and thats not really used much. We just have desktop PCs and Android phones pretty much that are mainly used.


Im fairly sure though its not a wireless issue though cause how would that make the router restart itself. Not to mention we were having issues with a different router just not a full on restart.

[FurryNutz]

Only reason possible for restarts is wireless or some form of wireless interference. Need to find out what channels the neighbors are using. Again 1, 6 or 11 is preferred. Set one to 11 and the other to 1 if those channels are not used.

What region are you located?

[John877]

NW US

[FurryNutz]

Ok.

Let us know how testing goes.

[John877]

The 655 disconnected again earlier this morning and didnt come back online in the usual amount of time it usually did  so instead of fiddling around with it some more I just swapped it out for the Netgear again and did the factory reset on that and gonna see how this goes for now.

[FurryNutz]

You might try doing a factory reset, re-load FW, could try the v2.12 beta or the last release, factory reset once more then setup from scratch and test...Try this after you've tested the NG router.

[John877]

We did some more diagnostic testing after switching to the netgear router.  We determined its not even a router issue at all as wel completely eliminated the routers and plugged a PC to the modem directly and it still happened.  We even moved the modem to a different coax outlet closer to the homerun box on the side of the house where it had literally a 4 foot cord going from the box to the modem and a different PC running the ping utility and it still happened. Therefore our only conclusions are  the modem is bad in some way or  theres some exterior reason for it happening.  I even monitored the modems status page and refreshed it during a fairly long ping spike and no signal level changes so I have no idea at all.

I really could swear this started happening when comcast  upgraded everyones speeds by double a few months back.   But Im not sure as it could be unrelated entirely.  The modem, if I hadnt mentioned is a Cisco DPC3008 DOCSIS 3.0 modem so it should be more than capable of handling the speed.

[FurryNutz]

Glad you figured it out.

I recommend getting into a Arris/Motorola SB 6141 or 6183. Very good modems and are supported on your ISP I believe.

Once you get into a new modem you should be good on the 655. Set up the QoS for xbox gaming as well.

Good Luck.

[John877]

Comcast tech came out and determined it was the Upstream SNR  was having issues in our whole neighborhood.  Apparently one of the homes int eh area is introducing some noise into the system.  Why that would make the 655 restart periodically though is beyond me. Seems to me that shouldnt be affecting the router at all.  He showed me a table on his phone of the past few days or so and showed how almost daily the Upstream SNR went into the yellow or red.