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[myrok24]

Hi there,
I have bought an new dlink868l. But something strange is happing with the connection. On my macbook pro, the 5ghz network is sometimes gone in the list, or it won't connect at all.

Another, maybe related, problem: on the third floor the the network is visible, but is just won't connect, says the password is incorrect while it isn't..

By the way, i replaced a TL WR1043ND v1.0 , not with the same problems...

THnx alot!

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
• Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
• What region are you located?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?

What OSX version are you using?
What is the distance between the router and the Mac?
Best placement of the router is on the main floor and central to the building...

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
• Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by that maybe causing interferences?
• Any other WiFi routers in the area that maybe causing interferences? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many? Use v3, its free.
• If you have any of these options, Try turning OFF or ON Short GI, WLAN Partition, Extra Wireless Protection and HT 20/40 Co-existence if you have it. Also testing with HT20/40Mhz Co-existence enabled will impact results as well. I prefer to use this option OFF. Recommended settings are default. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.

Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/31083-smallnetbuilders-wireless-faq-the-essentials

[FurryNutz]

Any status on this? 

Hi there,
I have bought an new dlink868l. But something strange is happing with the connection. On my macbook pro, the 5ghz network is sometimes gone in the list, or it won't connect at all.

Another, maybe related, problem: on the third floor the the network is visible, but is just won't connect, says the password is incorrect while it isn't..

By the way, i replaced a TL WR1043ND v1.0 , not with the same problems...

THnx alot!

[MadLojo]

I just got a 868L a couple of days ago. My ISP is the same as it was before, cable.

Installed 2.03 (have revision B) and the connectivity issues are incredible. This is my 4th D-Link router, the more expensive one and never had such a bad experience.

Disabled QOS, disabled firewall options, no filtering. Still get connection issues. For example Netflix, I get maximum 20 minutes of HD streaming  before it has to fill the buffer (never had such problems with previous routers, not even with a slower ISP).

With QOS or firewall activated, the connectivity is even worse.

In the computer, need to use the refresh button from time to time because some pages won't load.

Just talking about LAN connections here. I'll have to put the WLAN connections to the test but it would be the first time I see a router performing better on WLAN than LAN.

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What region are you located?
• Has a Factory Reset been performed?
• Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?

  Link> >FW Update Process

• Was the router working before any firmware updates?

Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations

• What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
• What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
• Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
• What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have? Link> Speed Testing Sites
• By-pass the main host router and check internet connection by connecting a wired LAN PC directly to the ISP modem to verify connection access and ISP speeds.
• Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended.
• Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values

Router and Wired Configurations
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router. Besure to log into the Admin account on the router.

• Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP if this option is available.
• Enable or Disable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) and test under Setup/Internet/Manual. Disable may help with speed performance on higher speed ISP services.
• Turn on or off DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
• Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting and maintain consistency for applications that need to connect as well as mapped drives.
• Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
• If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only under Setup/IPv6.
• Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall. Enable or Disable SPI to test.

I just got a 868L a couple of days ago. My ISP is the same as it was before, cable.

Installed 2.03 (have revision B) and the connectivity issues are incredible. This is my 4th D-Link router, the more expensive one and never had such a bad experience.

Disabled QOS, disabled firewall options, no filtering. Still get connection issues. For example Netflix, I get maximum 20 minutes of HD streaming  before it has to fill the buffer (never had such problems with previous routers, not even with a slower ISP).

With QOS or firewall activated, the connectivity is even worse.

In the computer, need to use the refresh button from time to time because some pages won't load.

Just talking about LAN connections here. I'll have to put the WLAN connections to the test but it would be the first time I see a router performing better on WLAN than LAN.

[MadLojo]

I am putting my sights into a temperature issue.

Just made a measurement of the external case (top part) and got 39º C. The insides must be crispy (working max temperature is listed as 40).

Is there anyway to get internal temp measurements?

In the meanwhile, will have to try to change my whole setup and look for a better ventilated place 

[FurryNutz]

You can install a laptop cooler under the router to help provide better ventilation. I recommend using a LT cooler with any wifi router now days. Regardless of designed cooling of the case. 

What is 39C = to in Fahrenheit? 

Also be sure to answer the questions. The more we know, the better we can give feedback and suggestions. Thank you.

[MadLojo]

You can install a laptop cooler under the router to help provide better ventilation. I recommend using a LT cooler with any wifi router now days. Regardless of designed cooling of the case. 

What is 39C = to in Fahrenheit? 

Also be sure to answer the questions. The more we know, the better we can give feedback and suggestions. Thank you.

102.2 degrees in Fahrenheit.

I will try first to see if I can get a better ventilated location, I have big hopes that it is exactly the reason for my issues. Maybe I can do some experiments with some coolers I have around.

I'll come back with results in a few days.

[FurryNutz]

I believe that's in the designed temp range. However seems high. I recommend placing a LT cooler at any rate. Temp will degrade electronics over time.

Other factors maybe at play as well. Run thru some of the suggestion and please give feed back. The more you can give feedback the better we and can help you.

[MadLojo]

Moved the router to a more open place. Nothing around it in at least 3 inches.

Also raised the router an extra 0.5" to facilitate air circulation for the vents underneath. Which got me a reduction of 33ºF (1º C).

Ran several stress tests last night (dozen devices pulling and stretching the bandwidth) for a few hours.

The temperature is now steady around the 91º F (33ºC), that is 50º F (10º C) over room temperature.

Even turned QOS on and all devices stayed connected, not even a single connection drop.

Still have gaming and firewall tests to do but so far, I am delighted with the performance of the router.

It appears temperature was the reason for my issue. Since the router would disconnect, looks like it is done of purpose, there should be some temp managment chipset/logic. I would suggest dlink to include such events in the Syslog (disconnect due high temp or/and reaching critical temp threshold) or add the information to the GUI in the advanced settings.

[FurryNutz]

Sounds like you found the problem.

I would recommend using a laptop cooler as additional cooling. Over time heat will degrade electronic parts. Nature of the beast.
Just curious, where was the location of the router placed initially?

The addition of temp logic is a neat idea, however I believe that D-Link designes home class routers for the average user and in most cases, this isn't an issue or cost effective for D-Link. I presume maybe in business class HW may need this as they are used with more HW in there surroundings. I've seen rooms with HW and when the power goes out, batter back up kicks in and the doors have to be opened and fans put in place since the AC isn't on backup. Get very warm fast. Home class routers don't have this issue. Theres only been a couple of cases where heat design was a problem. This is the first case I've seen with the cylinder style case though. Seems like your initial placement for this case was a factor now that you moved it to a different, more open place and it's working better.

[MadLojo]

I had the router in a middle shelf and since this router goes up, doesn't lays flat like my previous ones, it meant the top side had just a couple of inches to breath.

It is now on a table with several feet of free cool air up to the ceiling.

The additional cooler could be a factor to consider but the new home of the router is at one of the coolest spots, even in summer.

[FurryNutz]

Should work well then.

Enjoy.