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[deelinkuser]

If this is in the wrong place, please feel free to move it. I was unable to find a forum for the DIR-836L.


This router works great most of the time for my Mac & Windows computers, Chromecast, and Roku. However, if I ever want to use my iPhone 6s on this router (5 ghz or 2.4 ghz) I have to restart the router first, it will work for however long I am using the internet on the phone, then if I stop using it for a few minutes I will no longer be able to get internet.

It is seeing the wireless and saying it's connected, but it will not load any web pages and apps say there is no connection.

This phone works fine on the wifi I have at work.
Other devices work fine on this wireless router; it's only the iPhones that do not.
I toggle my wifi off then back on on the phones and/or switch between 5 ghz or 2.4 ghz, but only restarting the wireless router seems to do the trick.

I have posted on the Apple forums and they think there is nothing wrong with the phones.

How can I get this to work with iPhones?

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
• Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
• What region are you located?

What iOS is currently loaded on the iPhones?

Wireless Configurations
Links>Wireless Installation Considerations and Managing Signal Congestion and Good Neighbour Policy

• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
• What wireless modes are you using?
• 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.

[deelinkuser]

Thanks for the reply!

Here is my information:

• What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
     • H/W Ver.: A1
• What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
     • F/w Ver.: 1.02 2012/11/09 (There have not been any updates from when I bought it.)
• What region are you located?
     • Pennsylvania, United States

• What iOS is currently loaded on the iPhones?
     • iPhone 1: iOS 10.2
     • iPhone 2: iOS 10.1.1

Wireless Configurations
• Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Ensure that different SSID names are used between each WiFi 2.4/5Ghz radios. Can be anything and not something that's already in use by any neighbouring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
     • Yes. I pick a name, then end it with 24 or 5 suffix so I know which is which.
• What wireless modes are you using?
     • 2.4GHz: Mixed 802.11n, 802.11g, and 802.11b
     • 5GHz: Mixed 802.11n and 802.11a
     • This was based on Apple’s recommended settings: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202068
• 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz routers: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N on 2.4Ghz and single mode N or AC on 5Ghz?
     • I just downgraded it to g/b for the 2.4GHz and n for 5GHz will try that for a bit.
• Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
     • Originally it was 20/40, then I changed it to 20 a month back when posting on Apple support forums, but it did not seem to help.
• Try setting a manual Channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear. 13 for EU regions. Try channel 48 or 149 on 5Ghz.
     • Sure, I can give that a go as well.
• What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto TPIK and AES.
     • I have it set to WPA2 / AES (based on Apple’s recommendations for the devices)

[FurryNutz]

Ok let us know know it goes using the lower modes and settings.

There is FW updates for this model router that you can try later on as well:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=64375.0

[deelinkuser]

I followed your suggestions, but I had no luck.

I've changed settings dozens of times, wiped back to factory, and changed them again based on suggestions from Apple Support and this forum.

At most I can get it to work more often for like a week, then it stops working at all, which makes no sense. Sometimes if I switch from the 2.4 to the 5 GHz or vice-versa I get a few minutes of internet, but that doesn't always work.

My Mac & PC computers work just fine with this router and my Android tablets work just fine with this router. Also, my iPhone works just fine on the WiFi at work.

For whatever reason, it's specifically iPhones (both of the ones I own) on this router that don't work. At this point I cannot tell if it is an issue with the phones or the router, so I'm not sure how to troubleshoot.

[FurryNutz]

Ok, I'll set up my 836L and see what I find out.

Please update your router to v1.04 and test:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=64375.0

Please follow the Link> >FW Update Process
After doing the last factory reset, setup the wireless SSID names (try a new name) and set single mode N, WPA2 Personal and AES Only, manual channel 11 on 2.4Ghz and manual channel 36 on 5ghz, Disable WPS and Set IPv6 to Local Only, save settings, reboot the router and test. Be sure to turn OFF  the wifi on the phones while your setting up the router.

[FurryNutz]

Ok, I just put my 836L online. It's loaded with v1.04. Using single mode N, WPA2 Personal and AES only for both radios. 836L is running in LAN to LAN AP mode since I'm using a different router as my main host router. The 836L is the main wireless AP while ALL other wireless signals I have are turned OFF.

My iPhone 6sP has 10.2 loaded on it. Connected to the 5Ghz radio.
I have two NESTS and 3 other iPhones and a iPad connected to it as well.

I'll let it run and see what happens.

[FurryNutz]

Still working with my 836L. Iphone 6sP and other iPhones and a iPad Mini iOS 9.3.5 are doing good. Even though I do notice that the signal bars are reduced  by 1 when I'm on 5Ghz. I haven't noticed any drops or disconnects.

Let us know how yours is going. Please upgrade FW as well if you have not.

[Hard Harry]

Two things I would suggest to try are disabling the "Auto Channel Scan" as seen page 38 and "HT20/40 Coexistence" shown page 91 of manual. Set the Channel to 9, unless you know of a specific channel to pick. It should be one with no activity two channel to either side.

I think what may be happening is the router is using the 40Mhz bandwidth between the Iphone and Chromecast. If the router changes the channel while there is activity, the Iphone doesn't get the message of the new channel. It still tries to connect to the SSID at the "old" channel instead of the new one. If you want to test that therory, next time it happens, try resetting the network settings on the Iphone. See link here. Just make sure you have your wifi password handy to re-enter it. If that works without the router reset, it isolates to an Iphone issue and those setting changes should help. 

@FurryNuts - I think your not seeing the issue because your wireless environment is different. The chromecast is a wildcard too because it constantly broadcasting a discovery signal, like a mini AP. Many "smart" features work fine until they are put under load or under weird circumstances. IMO then it's better to manually set the channel. 

[FurryNutz]

Ya I forgot to mention coexistence however one reason I don't sometimes is that users still use wireless G mode for compatibility. It's disabled on mine.

Over all I was out to see if I could reproduce this issue using more specific wireless settings mentioned already. Also the test was under load as the 836L was the only source for wireless. I shut off my other APs for this test to see if ALL of my wireless devices would connect and show any disconnections. All is good over the few days I had the 836 online as the only wifi source. So we know, at least one 836L works for the most part with iPhones, iOS 9x and 10x versions.

Channels 8 and 9 are not recommended as they are side band channels that the router wifi uses for connections between it and devices. 1, 6 and 11 are the mains that should be used for best operation for wifi. Ya, we know that congestion is prevalent in some areas, sometime Auto scan works when the router is rebooted. I recommend channel 11 for 2.4Ghz if nobody else is near by using it.

I'm hoping the poster will come back and let us know what changes they've done and if anything has helped. They are behind on FW updates so this maybe a factor as well.

Just some observations though, the 836L is working for me.

[deelinkuser]

The Chromecast thought was intriguing to me because I bought the same router for my parents and they have the same phones, no Chromecast, and no issues.

I disabled the "Auto Channel Scan" and "HT20/40 Coexistence" (thanks @Hard Harry!), and set the channel to 11 (thanks @FurryNutz!).

I unplugged the Chromecast too for good measure.

I will report back with the results. Sometimes it works for a couple of days, then stops.

Thank you all again for your time and thought. Very much appreciated! 

[FurryNutz]

Keep us posted. If you didn't update the FW, you might try that as well. Mines on v1.04 and worked well.

[deelinkuser]

Got it updated to v1.04 now, thanks! I'll see what happens over the next few days and post back.

[FurryNutz]

Kewl. Keep us posted. 

[deelinkuser]

So far, so good! A lot better than it was! Hoping it keeps on keeping on...

You'd think if my 5 y.o. android tablet has no issue keeping tabs on what channel the router is on, my 2 y.o. iPhone 6S could figure it out, but apparently not. 

Thanks @Hard Harry and @FurryNutz for the assistance!