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[gbourdon]

I've had a DCS-5300 running great for a couple years (out of warranty now). The other night I unplugged it to move it, and when I set it back up, the video was all black, with a single line of test stating: 
    No Signal !!

I've read in one other place online that it could be a blown capacitor on one of the two boards inside. The FAQs don't mention this issue though. Can anyone confirm this is the likely cause, and if so, which capacitor it is?   I assume my only option is to replace it myself at this point.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,
Gary

[bbissinger]

I have the same problem. But I don't see any solutions to this post! 

I can log in via the web browser. I can control the camera (make it move up, down, left and right).  But the box where the live video should appear is black, with the words "No Signal !!"  at the top.

Is there any solution to this? The camera is 2 years old and has worked perfectly up until this problem.

Help? Anyone?

[ECF]

Yeah it may be a blown cap. You will need to open it up and see which one is blown and replace it or take it to an electrician for repair if you are out of warrant unfortunately.

[podryna]

I have a DCS-5300 that is now 3 years old, and has just redeveloped the "No Signal!!" issue.  When my camera was about 4 months old (3 years ago now), it developed this same problem  ("No Signal!!").  It had been working perfectly until that point, and everything else worked OK except for the image.  I called d-link, then then went through several escalations in support.  Here is the dialog (I happen to have kept it in my email).  Note at the end of the dialog it fixed the problem.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
This email is meant as a call notification ONLY. The Case ID that references your Technical Support call is ALR398432523.

- Connect the camera directly to the computer

Check the Link lights:
 Power= Steady light Red
 Status= Blinking green

- Reset the camera for 10 seconds

Check the Link lights:
 Power= Steady light Red
 Status= Blinking green

- Power cycle the camera for 2 minutes

Check the Link lights:
 Power= Steady light Red
 Status= Blinking green

Assigned a Static IP Address:
IP Address=192.168.0.52
Subnet Mask=255.255.255.0

Try to access the web configuration page of the camera:
- Open up a browser. Double-click Internet Explorer.
- On the address bar of the browser type the IP Address of the router.
(IP Address of the camera is 192.168.0.20)
(nothing happened)

- Reinstall the install wizard

Crash reset the camera:
- With the camera powered on, reset the camera for 10 seconds
- After the 10 seconds, remove the power cord and continue resetting the camera for 30 seconds
- After 30 seconds, plug back the power cord and continue resetting the camera for 10 seconds more
- After 10 seconds, let go

- Camera is working (Successful)

*Resolved: Peter can now use his DCS-5300 Security Camera after reinstall  the install wizard and the IP surveillance.

Your Dlink Case ID ALR398432523
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Hmmmm... what's a "crash reset" and how did it fix the No Signal!! problem?  The above log came from the dLink tech.

OK, so now my camera has re-developed the same problem.  It had been working fine for 3 years outside in a dLink enclosure.  Two weeks ago I took it down to move it to a new location.  When I tried to setup the camera, all of the controls worked OK but i got No Signal!!.  Tried several resets, including factory and reinstalls and still got the same.

I then found the above email and tried everything again.  Still No Signal.  I even tried the Crash Reset, which seems to be an undocumented feature. 

It would be good to hear if others who have developed this problem have solved it.  I read about the mystery capacitor problem, but I found that post very dubious.  Devices in these cameras are surface mounted and almost impossible to unsolder and replace without destroying everything around them.  A cap would most likely be less than 1/8" with no label as to size.  I would not rule out a hardware, or more likely, a connector problem somewhere in the camera.  It's curious that the problem has developed after moving the camera.

-Peter

[tdavis34]

Ok, so I have the same issue and was about to give up on my DCS-5300G with the "No Signal!!" error.

However, I have now discovered the threads about the blown capacitor and am feeling like that is the issue for me as well. I opened up the camera last night and removed the camera board with the capacitor on it, but cannot determine from the lettering what type of capacitor it is, meaning, what type I should get to replace it. It says "190 BP 56". Some initial research leads me to believe this might be a 19 micro-Farad Bandpass capacitor, but I'd really love someone who knows for sure to tell me what it is so I can get a replacement. (Update [2010-11-25 @ 9:12 AM EST]: I now have come to realize the part marked "190 BP 56" isn't a capacitor at all. My guess is the capacitors on that board look more like tiny IC's and are surface mounted. No matter, since getting a replacement board seems to be such an inexpensive proposition, I won't fool with the idea replacing capacitors anymore...)

Anyone from D-Link care to weigh in, please? 

[tdavis34]

Ok, after spending more time looking into this (and not hearing back from anyone at D-Link - not just here, but from a "Purchase Spare Parts" request I sent yesterday), I have come to realize that the camera board itself can be likely be replaced fairly cheaply, as there are many variants out there. I just found one that seems to have all of the same specs (including 32mm X 32mm size, microphone, 1/3" CCD and 3.6 mm lens) for about $15. I'm going to move ahead with this, will post back as to how well it worked...

[moreins]

any new info on this. got a camera at college with the same issue. everything works except the image on the camera!! cant believe dlink products end up like this....

[tdavis34]

The best thing I could find was a replacement from DinoDirect.com:

http://www.dinodirect.com/1-4-SHARP-CCD-Board-Camera-with-3-6mm-Lens-RD-B602C.html

I ordered it on November 30 and just received it today (read: don't be in a hurry). It was $20 and it has three issues to remediate:

1) The power/data connector on the new board only has 3 pins (no audio pin because the board doesn't support it unless you add the transistor in Step 2). Even if you don't do Step 2, you should probably de-solder and move the 4-pin male plug receptacle from your old D-Link board onto the new board (of course, you have to remove the 3-pin male plug receptacle from the new board first).

2) There is audio support on this board, but you have to add a transistor to enable it. To do this, you need to procure and solder a transistor to the board (see link below and instructions in the reviews section of the page referenced above). If you want to keep things modular instead of hard-wired, you probably should move the male plug receptacle from the D-Link board and solder it onto the new board, just so you can easily plug in the microphone from the D-Link chassis.

Here's a link to the transistor I bought: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NTE2408virtualkey52600000virtualkey526-NTE2408

3) The board has holes at both 38mm x 38mm and at 32mm x 32mm. Since the D-Link board is 32mm (and the chassis isn't big enough to fit a 38mm board, I'm going to cut the 6mm offset off that's all the way around the board.

Again, I have all the parts but I haven't done any of these steps yet.

Believe me, I did not WANT to get into all this soldering, but after a lot of searching, this board seemed like the best I could find. So, I'll do it and we'll see how it works out. After Step 1, I'll plug in the new board and confirm that it works at all (without audio), then Steps 2 and 3.

By the way, even though I'm looking forward to doing this, NONE of it would be necessary if D-Link support didn't completely STINK and if they had ever answered any of my requests for replacement parts. I'm betting this new board I got will have superior quality (with the Sharp camera and all), we'll see. In any case, I'll never buy another D-Link camera again (I've heard Axis is much better, for example). Any D-Link folks who are reading this and give a hoot might want to take note!

-Tim

[moreins]

By the way, even though I'm looking forward to doing this, NONE of it would be necessary if D-Link support didn't completely STINK .

+1

[itraxxas]

The best thing I could find was a replacement from DinoDirect.com:

http://www.dinodirect.com/1-4-SHARP-CCD-Board-Camera-with-3-6mm-Lens-RD-B602C.html

I ordered it on November 30 and just received it today (read: don't be in a hurry). It was $20 and it has three issues to remediate:

1) The power/data connector on the new board only has 3 pins (no audio pin because the board doesn't support it unless you add the transistor in Step 2). Even if you don't do Step 2, you should probably de-solder and move the 4-pin male plug receptacle from your old D-Link board onto the new board (of course, you have to remove the 3-pin male plug receptacle from the new board first).

2) There is audio support on this board, but you have to add a transistor to enable it. To do this, you need to procure and solder a transistor to the board (see link below and instructions in the reviews section of the page referenced above). If you want to keep things modular instead of hard-wired, you probably should move the male plug receptacle from the D-Link board and solder it onto the new board, just so you can easily plug in the microphone from the D-Link chassis.

Here's a link to the transistor I bought: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NTE2408virtualkey52600000virtualkey526-NTE2408

3) The board has holes at both 38mm x 38mm and at 32mm x 32mm. Since the D-Link board is 32mm (and the chassis isn't big enough to fit a 38mm board, I'm going to cut the 6mm offset off that's all the way around the board.

Again, I have all the parts but I haven't done any of these steps yet.

Believe me, I did not WANT to get into all this soldering, but after a lot of searching, this board seemed like the best I could find. So, I'll do it and we'll see how it works out. After Step 1, I'll plug in the new board and confirm that it works at all (without audio), then Steps 2 and 3.

By the way, even though I'm looking forward to doing this, NONE of it would be necessary if D-Link support didn't completely STINK and if they had ever answered any of my requests for replacement parts. I'm betting this new board I got will have superior quality (with the Sharp camera and all), we'll see. In any case, I'll never buy another D-Link camera again (I've heard Axis is much better, for example). Any D-Link folks who are reading this and give a hoot might want to take note!

-Tim

Hi Tim,

I would like to know if you were able to successfully came back to life your DCS 5300G using the new replacement board you mentioned.

I would like to do replicate what you did.

Thanks

[neomx]

Hi everyone, i also have the Black Screen No Signal Problem on DSC5300G  .

I found this article and the solution here: http://www.fixya.com/support/t1909587-no_signal

Sorry I have not yet tested the fixya solution but...

In my desperation, a couple of months ago, I opened the famous bad capacitor board and sprayed a electronic liquid cleaner for electronic boards that i use to clean my computer board, let it dry well and boila!, I have video again.

The liquid that i use is Prolicom Lectro-Express but for sure you can find something similar and try.

[amandasmith]

Have you got any error message on black screen?