D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-655 => Topic started by: stromm on May 04, 2013, 02:59:53 PM
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Rev B, recently updated firmware to 2.10NA hoping to resolve the problem.
WIFI is disabled.
DHCP is disabled (I run a SBS 2008 server, but for testing i static ally assigned IP info on my test PC and disconnected all other systems including the server).
Before updating the firmware, the router would hang for a couple minutes and then be OK for some random period, usually more than a few hours. After updating and resetting to factory defaults, I'm now lucky to get ten minutes of service before it hangs. The "globe" light goes out, blinks yellow and then within 20 seconds or so, goes out for good. At that point I can't even connect to the router's admin login page. I either have to power cycle the router OR the cable modem.
I have confirmed it's the 655 by reconnecting my old (and I guess more trusty Linksys WRT54G. Same settings, same WAN MAC and WAN IP, no problems after many hours.
Am I screwed or is there something else I should check?
Thanks all.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
What region are you located?
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Has a Factory Reset been performed before and after doing the FW update then configure from scratch?
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask. Link>Checking MTU Values (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53008.0)
For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1. Use IE, Opera or FF to manage the router.
Turn off ALL QoS (http://vonage.nmhoy.net/qos.html) or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual or under Setup/PARENTAL CONTROL/Set to>None: Static IP or Obtain Automatically From ISP.
Enable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0)
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking. This ensures each devices gets its own IP address when turned on and connected, eliminates IP address conflicts and helps in troubleshooting.
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
If IPv6 is an option on the router, select Local Connection Only or Disable IPv6 options under Setup/IPv6.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules. Enable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming for routers that have a Media Server option. Disable IPv6 Multi-cast Streaming if IPv6 or Media Server is not being used.
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
Set current Time Zone, Date and Time. Use an NTP Server (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48695.0) feature. Tools/Time.
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No offense, but really? A canned reply? Or was it an automatic bot reply?
I ask because many of the questions asked are actually in my original post...
MTU is same as the WRT54G, 1500.
QoS, UPnP, IPv6, DNS relay, etc. all services are disabled. No forwards or blocks enabled. I've actually enabled some of these for testing an found no difference.
This router actually worked fine for many years. Which led me to think the problem was my cable modem or some client, but it doesn't appear so since my old router works fine.
Modem is a Surfboard SB4100 on Time Warner Road Runner.
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Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Has a Factory Reset been performed before and after doing the FW update then configure from scratch?
I would also check the signal going into the ISP modem. Make sure there are no t.v. line splitters going into the modem as these can reduce the signal and cause noise on the line. If you have an ISP that allows you to own your own modem, I would recommend a new Motorola SB 6 Series modem.
Reason for asking questions is so we might gain more information from you about your problem and system. The more we know, the better we an provide feedback and suggestions to help you resolve your problems.
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I am having this exact same problem, also with TW and my D-Link DIR-655. Everything was fine until Thursday night, and I started having problems. I tried it with Firefox and IE, same issues. I would be using the web fine, and then websites couldn't load because they could not find the server. My Windows Mail would not connect either.
I spoke with Time Warner this morning, and nothing is wrong with my modem. I have connected the internet right to my PC and skipped the router. There have been no issues at all. I do not use the wireless settings and I have revision B and the newest firmware on the router.
I can't get IE to load, but then close it and it will or won't. Firefox will open a few sites and then just hang, and U can't connect at all.
I have rebooted the router and modem, and without the router connection I have been fine for over 4 hours. Earlier today I didn't have a stable connection for hours.
I see that another post on the topics page also is showing someone with issues. I updated my firmware a while ago, not recently.
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I would also check your ISP signal to the modem and make sure it's at spec. If these routers have been working and recently just exhibiting problems, I presume the problem may come from the ISP side of things. Routers really don't degrade for no reason on there own.
I would try a factory reset and set up from scratch with out doing any FW updates and re-test.
Upgrade the ISP modem as well if it seems to be getting old or not a DOCSIS 3. These newer modems work well if the signal is good and to spec.
I am having this exact same problem, also with TW and my D-Link DIR-655. Everything was fine until Thursday night, and I started having problems. I tried it with Firefox and IE, same issues. I would be using the web fine, and then websites couldn't load because they could not find the server. My Windows Mail would not connect either.
I spoke with Time Warner this morning, and nothing is wrong with my modem. I have connected the internet right to my PC and skipped the router. There have been no issues at all. I do not use the wireless settings and I have revision B and the newest firmware on the router.
I can't get IE to load, but then close it and it will or won't. Firefox will open a few sites and then just hang, and U can't connect at all.
I have rebooted the router and modem, and without the router connection I have been fine for over 4 hours. Earlier today I didn't have a stable connection for hours.
I see that another post on the topics page also is showing someone with issues. I updated my firmware a while ago, not recently.
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Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
What region are you located?
Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Has a Factory Reset been performed before and after doing the FW update then configure from scratch?
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Here is the info you are asking for to help us out.
I am located in Upstate New York.
I am wired to the routher.
I have not done a factory reset at all.
I have Time Warner Cable Roadrunner service.
The modem manufacturer is Arris, Touchstone Telephony Modem Model TM602G/115.
As I stated above, I am not using the router now and have had NO connection problems at all.
Any help would be appreciated with this.
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I would also check your ISP signal to the modem and make sure it's at spec. If these routers have been working and recently just exhibiting problems, I presume the problem may come from the ISP side of things. Routers really don't degrade for no reason on there own.
I would try a factory reset and set up from scratch with out doing any FW updates and re-test.
Upgrade the ISP modem as well if it seems to be getting old or not a DOCSIS 3. These newer modems work well if the signal is good and to spec.
I'm not sure how to check the ISP signal. I know the rep at Time Warner said that the signal to and from my modem was where it should be. If I do a factory reset and it does work, do I upgrade the FW if it checks out?
It's just that I updated the FW a while ago, not recently and everything was fine until 2 days ago.
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What version is currently loaded?
Keep what is loaded for now and test after doing a factory reset. Set up the router from scratch using the suggestions I mentioned in this thread.
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
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I am currently at firmware v. v2.10NA.
I will do a reset and see what happens.
I'll try the settings you recommend and let you know.
Thanks for the help, FurryNutz.
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Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
Uh, as I said originally, WIFI is disabled.
Has a Factory Reset been performed before and after doing the FW update then configure from scratch?
Also answered in the original post.
I would also check the signal going into the ISP modem. Make sure there are no t.v. line splitters going into the modem as these can reduce the signal and cause noise on the line.
Strong signal, hasnt changed since I moved here seven years ago. SNR 37dB, power level -3dBmV.
Reason for asking questions is so we might gain more information from you about your problem and system. The more we know, the better we an provide feedback and suggestions to help you resolve your problems.
I understand questions being asked (I've been in IT for more than 25 years from desktop to enterprise support and even teaching Microsoft courseware for more than five years), but asking questions already answered in the original post just seems like one never bothered to read the post.
I'm not trying to pick a fight, but that kind of thing is just a waste of everyone's time.
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Might check the voltage on the 12v output on the power adapter. Should be a stable 12v 2A.
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Ok, so I contacted Time Warner, again, and I bypassed my router and the internet worked fine.
I spoke with D-Link Technical support twice last night. The first gentleman, after a couple reboots and changing quite a few settings on the router, tried to make it work but the problems persisted. We even did a factory reset.
I called back, as I was told to if it didn't fix it. The other gentleman had me do a reboot, and changed just a couple of settings on the router. We also tried a factory reset. This morning the problems are still present.
He told me to call back if it happened again, as after exhausting all other possibilities there was probably a defect with the router and he would issue me a RMA. Since I am not the only one this is happening to I don't think the routers are defective, especially as they have been working the entire time. I have to think it is something else.
I don't want to be without my router if it is not defective, but I don't know what else to do at this point. I also do not want to send it in, and have it come back and still not work the same.
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I stopped using BGN, and just N on channel 6. Changed my DNS servers, and updated to the latest Canadian firmware, which happens to also work for us. I'm still getting errors in the logs, but I'm up and running well. Best of luck to you. If not, I'm sorry to say I'd suggest going to get the latest Asus router. I've heard very good things about it.
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I'm not that technical with the routers. I have the latest firmware, but could you tell me more about BGN and how to change the servers? I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
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Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer (http://www.metageek.net/) to find out. How many?
You can change DNS server IP addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
You can also do this as well: Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0)
I would suggest that you try a new ISP Modem with this router as well. Most of the problems seen with any router is mainly ISP services or mis-configuration or LAN cable related. These routers are rock solid and work well when the previous conditions have been correctly addressed.
You might take your router to a friends, family or neighbors place to test to see if the problem follows. If your not wanting to RMA or wait while the router is at RMA, why not go to a place like best buy, frys or some place that has a 30 day return refund policy and get you either a same model router or something different and test out for 30 days. This would give you time to return the 655 to RMA if you can deem it to be the problem. Other 6 series routers to test would be DIR-636L, 645 or 657. The DIR-826L is a nice handy little router as well. I have tested all these models and others and do work well.
Maybe someone from the forums can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer (http://www.teamviewer.com) if your interested. Its safe and secure. However seems that D-Link aready has so I'm not sure what else we could do. I feel this could probably be an issue between the ISP modem and router.
@JiN
The M-Router log entires have been seen on my 655 as well. Started with v2.07 and remains in v2.10. Not sure why however I've timed the event to 10-15 minutes then those log entries stop until the next reboot. Doesn't seem to effect anything that I can tell and once the time has passed, all network LED activity returns to normal and router work fine.
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I do have cordless phones, but the issue is how everything has stayed the same but this problem suddenly arose. I have changed nothing with the router, the modem, the computer, etc. I have had the same router and modem for over 6 months now.
The one thing I am sure of, when I last spoke with the D-Link rep last night, he emphasized that he had gone through the list he had of fixes, and that if the latest didn't work that the router was at fault. Sure enough it didn't work. I called this morning, and had someone have me change a couple of settings. She said to call if I was still having trouble, and then to reference my case number and ask for a Level 2 technician.
If that happens, I will have been on the phone with D-Link 4 times with no fix. This is my 3rd D-Link, as over the years I have been a repeat customer and always upgraded with their products. If by the 4th call this is not resolved and no one is willing to get me an RMA and wants me to call again, well, I shall happily go with another company's product.
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Well you have the information and suggestions. Good luck.
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Well, I have been running without issue for a few days now. On my old Linksys WRT54G router. My daught said that all of her WoW problems are gone too (first I knew she was having problems with WoW).
So I plugged the 655 back in and within five minutes if crapped out. Voltage and Amps are fine. It's definitely the router.
And to Furrynutz, of course ANY electronic device can all of a sudden start having problems. I'm a bit shocked that you wrote otherwise.
Figureguy, try browsing to 192.168.100.1. That's the internal diag page address for my modem.
I guess it's time to buy another router for me.
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Sure, no problem here you go.
1. Login to router (192.168.0.1 is default)
2. Go to the Setup tab.
3. Look at the bottom, should say Dynamic IP (DHCP)
4. Change Primary DNS Address / Secondary DNS Address to different ones. You can change it to 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4 for Google DNS, or just use Google's open source tool NameBench to find the best DNS servers for you.
5. Save Settings, don't reboot yet.
6. On the left, look for Wireless Settings.
7. Under 802.11 Mode : change it to Mixed 802.11n and 802.11g
8. Channel Width is auto 20/40 mhz.
9. Wireless channel should be changed to a different channel by disabling Enable Auto Channel Scan. Use InSSIDer to find what channels the other networks around you are on.
10. Save settings, reboot.
(I wrote this before seeing Furry's reply, sorry!)
Anywho, these are essentially my settings. Try them both and see which works best for you.
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Links>Wireless Installation Considerations (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) and Managing Signal Congestion (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53228.0)
Ensure the default (dlink) SSID name is changed. Can be anything and not something thats already in use by any neighboring WiFi routers. Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
What wireless modes are you using?
2.4Ghz Routers only: Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use a WiFi Scanner (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48327.0) to find out. How many?
Try turning off Short GI (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/30969-what-do-80211ns-optional-features-mean-for-you), WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Enable WMM Enable (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50738.0) Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Try turning OFF the wireless radio and test. Does it still hang with the WiFi OFF?
Try downgrading to v2.03NA.
Do a factory reset, upload the FW file, factory reset once more, then set up from scratch.
Well, I have been running without issue for a few days now. On my old Linksys WRT54G router. My daught said that all of her WoW problems are gone too (first I knew she was having problems with WoW).
So I plugged the 655 back in and within five minutes if ****ped out. Voltage and Amps are fine. It's definitely the router.
And to Furrynutz, of course ANY electronic device can all of a sudden start having problems. I'm a bit shocked that you wrote otherwise.
Figureguy, try browsing to 192.168.100.1. That's the internal diag page address for my modem.
I guess it's time to buy another router for me.
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I had very similar issues with my 655 and it basically sits in the box it came in. I had hoped to upgrade one of a couple older models in my infrastructure but it just isn't reliable for any length of time. I'm somewhere between a heavy and expert user so I do know what I am doing. I know to reset units, configure from scratch, and I do know what the options mean/do. The inbound ISP service should have absolutely nothing to do with the router working over time. The modem should take care of any line issues. Having said that, I've tried 4 different modems, 3 different ISPs, Cable and DSL services. I have 4 existing routers that run 24/7/365 that I haven't rebooted since I moved 2+ years ago.
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ISP modems, Service and lines can and do have some operation and performance impact on routers. All the various ISPs out there and there HW and how they maintain them is a factor in how routers and all down stream oeprations. GIGO ::)
We are here to help troubleshoot some of these areas to help ensure that D-Link users are getting the most out of there routers. I also have this router and it works well when I have it online.
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Any status on this from the OP? ???
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Any status on this from the OP? ???
Wow, I figured on may 8, my post about how my old WRT54G works perfectly says it all.
I never bothered with the 655 again. It's sitting on a shelf in my basement.
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Try upgrading to v2.11NA, works well if you choose to.
Good Luck.